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How to use an automatic bleeder kit?

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CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
Hi Guys!

So we finally got around to purchasing a new bleeder kit from amazon, and are about to bleed the clutch. I've seen a couple of YouTube videos about it, but none of them were for MG Midgets, so I thought it might be best to ask the experts!

Basically what I need (if you can) is a simple step by step workthrough! The kit has the little hand held pistol/pump, and a bunch of adapters as well. (and a little can for the fluid)
Thanks!

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dimini Avatar
dimini Don Ipock
Kansas City, MO, USA   USA
Carver-
Does your Midget 1500 still have a Lockheed clutch master cylinder (which has a screw-on reservoir lid)? Hopefully so, and presumably one of the adaptor caps that came with your bleeder will fit it.

Should that be the case, you attach the bleeder to the clutch MC, with brake fluid in the bleeder, of course, and pump the bleeder up to about 15psi. Hopefully your bleeder has a pressure gauge.

With the pressure bleeder attached and pumped up, you go under the car, which is SECURELY sitting on jack stands, and crack open the bleed valve on the clutch slave cylinder, which is a total PITA to do because the brilliant folks who designed the slave cylinder positioned the bleed valve next to the fluid hose inlet, blocking reasonable access to the wrench necessary to open the bleed valve.

With drain hose attached to slave cylinder bleed valve, open the bleed valve about half a turn to allow the system, which is now under pressure, to push air and fluid thru the system and into the catch bottle that came with your kit. Or, in many cases, have it spill all over the floor, or your face as you are trying to wrangle the logistics of getting a wrench of the slave cylinder's bleed valve.

The theory is, the pressure bleeder will push the air out of the system and when you notice a clean flow of brake fluid coming out of the slave, without bubbles, you shut the valve and you should be finished. On paper, the process sounds simple, but on Midgets, and the ridiculous lack of wrench access to crucial parts, you'll quickly see why it's a PITA. Good luck!

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
OK, our MG does have a lockheed, but the kit didn't come with a cap for it. This is the kit we have. PLEASE HELP!!!!

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Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, NH, USA   USA
Carver, did you buy a "Mini Vac" type bleeder? If so, they work on vacuum, not pressure, so that tubing needs to go on the bleeder valve, and you pull the fluid through instead of pushing itthumbs up

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, NH, USA   USA
Yup, that looks like a vacuum pump.

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
I think so? I will need to look at it. If it was, how would you use it? (step by step please??) Thanks!

dimini Avatar
dimini Don Ipock
Kansas City, MO, USA   USA
Carver-

You bought a vacuum bleeder, which sucks fluid/air through the system from the slave cylinder side. I have attempted to bleed the clutch using a different brand of the same device--mine being a MityVac, and failed to get it bled. The problem I have with vacuum bleeders is that they suck in extra air at the fitting where they attach and I can never tell if the air is from the system or a crappy fitting at the bleed valve.

I would encourage you to use the two-person process for bleeding the clutch.

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CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
ok, how does the "two person process" go?

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, NH, USA   USA
Locate the bleeder on the slave.
Fit the tightest tube onto the bleeder.
That tube goes on the inlet side of the canister cap (it should have a tube inside, to the bottom of the canister)
The hand help pump, goes to the other side of the canister cap.
Squeeze the hand trigger, until you can read the vacuum gauge as much as it will go.
Crack the bleeder valve, until the vacuum, is almost at zero. (this should pull fluid into the canister through that little down tube, and not into the pump)
Check the reservoir, repeat.
This should work, but the "Easy Bleed" style works better, because of the location of the bleeder valve.
Let us know if you are successful thumbs up

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littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"    & more
Welcome back, Carver! My Miti-Vac eventualy became so pressurized doing my clutch slave that the gauge popped off. These are great for distributors and brake bleeding but not for the clutch slave. I was eventually able to get a clutch using aquarium tubing running above the master cylinder and with a second person pinching the line with pliers.

By the way, on a pre-74 car the clutch master resides at an opening on the transmission hump inside the car on the passenger side. Still a PITA to put the wrench on given the standard slave here.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-05-16 10:38 AM by littlecars.

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
ok, and the bleeder valve is that small screw on the slave cylinder, right?

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
our MG is a '75.

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, NH, USA   USA
Should look like a brake bleeder valve

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
OK guys, I can do Bodywork restoring, but my knowledge of engine and line/stuff is zilch. You're going to have to explain it like you're talking to a 5 year old! So what does the bleeder valve look like?

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, NH, USA   USA
It looks like the a tall nut, with a dome on the top, and a hole down the middle

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