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HS2 setup pics and issues

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Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
I had an idle issues thread and posted this pics in there but didn’t want it to get lost (and didn’t know how to retitle the thread). Here are some pics of the carbs and let me know any issues present that you see. There are some ports capped from the PO that need to be attended to im sure but I don’t know the proper way to do it. Any advice and tips welcome!

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Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
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Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
Couple of thoughts:

you'll want to take out those throttle plates which have the spring loaded poppet valves in them (the springs get weak over time and leak air, making it very difficult to tune)

simply replace with solid plates (no one makes the original type anymore because it was a bad idea)

Your front carb has a vacuum advance port (the plugged tube just forward of the float bowl), which is an ideal place to get your distributor vacuum advance from. The later years used manifold vacuum (which is how yours is hooked up now) in an attempt to get more emissions reduction. If you have your original distributor it will probably run best using that little ported take off on the carb instead.


With the engine running, blip the throttle and watch the pistons go up and down. If they move together you're all set, if they don't, there are some checks you can do to sort that out mechanically before you get to any tuning/adjustments.


N

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Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
Thanks for the time Norm! My issue is that I can’t get the car to idle without the choke. I thought maybe a vacuum leak but couldn’t see/find one. Posted the pics of the intake hoping something would stand out as to being wrong. I plan on ordering from Moss soon and new butterfly valves are on the list.

Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
If I move the vacuum to the carb what would the appropriate way to plug the manifold port be? Would a bolt work? If so any idea what thread?

Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
I think it is a 5/16-24. You can take the fitting to the hardware store and find which nut fits.
Use some sealer on the threads.

If there really is no vacuum leak anywhere then maybe those throttle plates will be the answer. Let us know how it turns out.

N

PeterC Avatar
PeterC Platinum Member Peter Caldwell
Madison Wisconsin, USA   USA
Can't see them but back off fast idle screws. They'll mess you up


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Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, CA, USA   USA
Travis, also make sure none of those hoses and pipes on the manifold are leaking. (That crimped tube looks suspicions.) I think manifoldnleaksntend to be pretty pronounced but I could be wrong. Definitely worth a check though...

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Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
Peter. Fast idle screws are backed off. They don’t touch when the choke is pulled.

The slow idle screws I turned all the way out until the butterfly was closed then turned 1 full turn open. That sound correct? With the car dying when choke is released makes me think it’s either a lack of air or lack of gas

Poundingsand Avatar
Poundingsand Silver Member Peer Ebbighausen
Los Angeles, CA, USA   USA
That sounds correct, except I believe the fast idle screws SHOULD touch when the choke is pulled...they should have a small gap when the choke is released.

I would start with the poppet valves as mentioned.

It sounds like you are getting fuel and air, since the car revs up to 2k RPMs. smiling smiley

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Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
Peer, I looked into the crimped tube and removed it (was going to plug with a bolt). However, the hole that it is in isn’t threaded. I believe this is where the PCV adaptor goes but how would I block that opening. Would I have to tap the opening?

Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
Alright, found it! The manifold gasket and heat shield had a vacuum leak. I took the rear carb off and wiggled the heat shield. But the carb back on and tightened it up. I now can idle without the choke! It’s still a rough idle and stays around 1200 and still has some issues but at least I can work on it now!

littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"    & more
Glad you removed the crimped tube, that belongs to either your PVC system (1970 model) or a later engine is installed (gulp valve). No way crimped metal can keep air from entering. smiling bouncing smiley You'll want to either use a bolt as described or a core plug of the correct diameter. Use a sealer that can withstand heat in that area. x2 on the poppet valves too.

Tafletcher Travis Fletcher
Lenoir city, TN, USA   USA
Update. Got to drive the car today! Been one issue after the next sorting this car out so was very exciting to finally drive it a bit. I drove around my neighborhood 3 times with my daughter then parked in the driveway. Let her out of the car and went to start it again and it wouldn’t start! Keep in mind before this it started as soon as I turned the key. Nothing was touched and now it won’t start. I can see gas in the fuel filter and added more just in case that was the issue. The condenser, points, coil, plugs and wires are all new. Ideas/suggestions?

There was smoke in the engine bay which I figured there would be since it’s been 27 years since it’s teallt been driven. It seemed to be coming from the bottom almost as if it were from the bellhousing area? I was thinking maybe exhaust leak where the flanges meet but didn’t see it from there.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-05-09 04:11 PM by Tafletcher.

PeterC Avatar
PeterC Platinum Member Peter Caldwell
Madison Wisconsin, USA   USA
Loose ground strap at trans to chassis? If hot would smoke


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