MGExp

MG Midget Forum

Rewiring courtesy light (BLOWN FUSE)

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

shaggy223 Avatar
shaggy223 Matthew Barber
Los Angeles, CA, USA   USA
I'm nearing the end of an interior remodel. It has been so exciting to see my beaten down MG receive new life.

I removed the old courtesy light over the speaker grill and replaced it with two led lights that I will be mounting in the foot wells.
The lights run to a simple on/off switch that I attached to the console.

The lights work, but I keep blowing a fuse after 15 seconds. It must be one of three things:

1. I wired it wrong (see attached diagram) The original courtesy light had a purple/white wire. I ditched this as it the previous owner had disconnected it.
2. The fuse is wrong. When I pulled the fuse the first time is said 50amp. But I replaced it with a 30 AGC.
3. These lights won’t work with my system

And yes, the original courtesy light worked before I started this project. Any ideas?

Thanks y'all!

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

Attachments:
IMG_1581.JPG    27.9 KB
IMG_1581.JPG

ken472 Avatar
ken472 Ken Petersen
Luverne, MN, USA   USA
Wired wrong. In DC wiring the switch goes either in the ground side or power side, not both. You have both going thru the switch. Dc wiring is not AC wiring.

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, NH, USA   USA
Yup thumbs up

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
jmac Avatar
jmac Silver Member Jere McSparran
Greenup, IL, USA   USA
1970 MG Midget "Joy Ride"
1978 MG Midget "Therapy"
1978 MG Midget "(SOLD)"
With exception of the power source, how is AC wiring different than DC wiring?

It is wired wrong, with that I agree.



JMac
JMAC Engine Shop
http://www.jmacengineshop.com


Attachments:
Wire diagram.jpg    7.9 KB
Wire diagram.jpg

73midget Avatar
73midget Chris Edwards
Garland, TX, USA   USA
Here's a good diagram of the whole circuit. I did the same thing with my courtesy lights, except i have a switch to turn them on with the doors closed and the door switches enabled as well.

I put the LEDs on the radio console pointing down into the foot area.

p.s. ignore the weird fuse box and relays, that's prep for another experiment with electrickery



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-04-09 10:33 AM by 73midget.


Attachments:
Courtesy Lights Circuit.jpg    17.6 KB
Courtesy Lights Circuit.jpg

MG courtesy lights.jpg    4.8 KB
Sign In or Register to view this photo
shaggy223 Avatar
shaggy223 Matthew Barber
Los Angeles, CA, USA   USA
ahhhh.. I sort of remember this from High School. But that was over 20 years ago. Damn.

Chris, I'm still learning how to read these diagrams. It looks like you ran (+) power to the lights and the (-) ground from the lights to the switch. You also ran the purple/white wire from the switch to the door switches. Correct? Did you attach the door switch wire to the other lead on the switch, or is it on the same lead as the (-) ground?

One last question... How do you wire those Y junctions (like the one coming from the fuse box and splitting to the turn signal?) Some of mine have this black rubber butt splice thing that has two leads in and one out. But some just wire nut all three wires together. Is there a better way I should be doing this?

Wayne Burner Avatar
Chester, NH, USA   USA
I like to solder splices, and the two into one's, get some liquid electrical tape, it's kind of like shrink tubing, in a can. Works very well, and I use it on my four wheelers, motorcycles, and pretty much everything electrical. I get it at my local ACE hardware. It has a little brush in the can, and I like to give the splices, three coats, or sometimes more, depending on location. thumbs up

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-Black-LTB-400/100119178

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
73midget Avatar
73midget Chris Edwards
Garland, TX, USA   USA
In reply to # 3713616 by shaggy223 ahhhh.. I sort of remember this from High School. But that was over 20 years ago. Damn.

Chris, I'm still learning how to read these diagrams. It looks like you ran (+) power to the lights and the (-) ground from the lights to the switch. You also ran the purple/white wire from the switch to the door switches. Correct? Did you attach the door switch wire to the other lead on the switch, or is it on the same lead as the (-) ground?

One last question... How do you wire those Y junctions (like the one coming from the fuse box and splitting to the turn signal?) Some of mine have this black rubber butt splice thing that has two leads in and one out. But some just wire nut all three wires together. Is there a better way I should be doing this?

Yes, the positive goes to the light and the switch is on the negative side of the circuit. I do it that way because the factory did it that way, and most DC circuits in my experience are run that way.

The purple/white wire is the factory wire from the door switches to the light. It doesn't really connect to the switch, it connects to the negative side of the light. The light will come on if it has both a positive and a negative connection. It either gets the negative via the door switch or the console switch. two options. If you were to delete one of the LEDs and have just one light, it would be exactly how the original map/courtesy light was wired.

Regarding the 3 way connections, I like to do either spade or bullet connections. You can put two wires into the same spade connector or use a 3 way sleeve connection with the bullets. I think i used bullets because the factory did in most places. Either is fine.
Solder the connector on to the wire to avoid loose connections.

You could even twist all three together and solder them in a lump (then insulate with heat shrink). The factory did this in a few places as well.

Wire nuts are not recommended for car wiring, they are too likely to rattle off and leave live bare wires which is how fires start.

shaggy223 Avatar
shaggy223 Matthew Barber
Los Angeles, CA, USA   USA
In reply to # 3713732 by 73midget Yes, the positive goes to the light and the switch is on the negative side of the circuit. I do it that way because the factory did it that way, and most DC circuits in my experience are run that way.

Regarding the 3 way connections, I like to do either spade or bullet connections. You can put two wires into the same spade connector or use a 3 way sleeve connection with the bullets. I think i used bullets because the factory did in most places. Either is fine.
Solder the connector on to the wire to avoid loose connections.

Wire nuts are not recommended for car wiring, they are too likely to rattle off and leave live bare wires which is how fires start.

This totally worked! I have light! And good solid connections. Thank you again.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
73midget Avatar
73midget Chris Edwards
Garland, TX, USA   USA
Well done! Congratulations!

littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"    & more
Now come to my house and do mine, Matthew. grinning smiley

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster