Website undergoing maintenance, connection may be intermittent
MGExp

MG Midget Forum

I AM DESPERATE RIGHT NOW...SOS..SOS...SOS...How to bleed slave cylinder???

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

rockmidget Peter Rock
Wausau, WI, USA   USA
Here is what I do:
I crack the bleeder on the clutch cylinder, attach a vinyl clear hose (either 1/4 inch or 5/16, has to seal) over the bleeder, and run it upward, up to 4 ft to a juice bottle taped to a stick or other support, or have someone hold it. Looks like an I V setup. I fill the res, then push down on the petal quickly. you should see something flowing up the tube toward the bottle, either fluid or air/fluid. If a mix of air and fluid comes out, hold the pedal down at the end of the stroke until the air bubbles have traveled up the tubing. I do not close the bleeder when I release because if there is backflow, the bubbles are not a problem, and it is awkward to do so alone! I just keep pumping and holding, occasionally checking the reservoir. Yes, there will be movement of the liquid level in the discharge tube, but keep pumping until the bubbles come out. Keep in mind, you are chasing air out of a high spot in the tubing, as stated in other posts, so keep pumping the pedal for the first 3 or 4, don't wait too long between strokes or the air will flow back up to the high spot. This works for me on brakes too. Always single handed. Sorry in advance to those who think this is crazy.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
dlrhine Avatar
dlrhine Dave Rhine
South, Carolina, USA   USA
I tried every way I could think of & all the simple, good intended tips from this forum & others when I replaced my clutch hydraulics on my 1500 a few years back.
I had no success at all until I bought & used a pressure bleeder.
Pressure bleeder X2...



If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is! winking smiley

tonyhawker Mahlon Hawker
Lorton, VA, USA   USA
1922 Ford Model T
1925 Ford Model T
1927 Ford Model TT "Henrietta"
1931 Ford Model A    & more
I tried an air powered suction bleeder on my 1500. I continually got air bubbles in the drain jug even after running an entire can of fluid through the master cylinder. It turns out that the fit of the bleeder screw was sloppy, allowing air to be drawn around the threads so I could not determine when the bleeding was successful. Coating the threads with heavy grease sealed the leak and the suction developed by 100 pounds of air pressure did the job in about 10 seconds.

Tony

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Thomasss Tho S
Horst, L, Netherlands   NLD
For me, the simple Gunson Eezibleed is a very handy solution and recommended. Sometimes I use pumping on the pedal while the master cylinder has pressure from the Eezibleed (spare tyre).

phoffman Peter Hoffman
Miller Place, NY, USA   USA
If you have the hard plastic hose from the clutch master, try this:

1. Keeping everything attached remove the clutch master bolts and gently remove the clutch master and hold upright.
2. Holding with reservoir upright, push plunger in while the bleeder is loosened.

Had problem years ago on a car and found an air bubble was trapped where the hose goes up and then down.

Chas 906 Avatar
Chas 906 Chuck Peterson
Iron Mountain, MI, USA   USA
1961 MG Midget MkI "Little Red Rider"
So Carver, have you had any luck getting the clutch back? I even went so far as to tap the over head line thinking there might be trapped air up inside. Gunson Eezibled air pressure system did the trick after the slave was replaced.

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
@Chas 906, no, the mechanic and I are going to look at it tommorow, hopefully something works. None of you would happen to have a video of the correct way to bleed it, would you? (or A way to bleed it) That would be great.

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
halloween Gregg B
Sheridan, WY, USA   USA
I haven't seen it or used it, but I believe Bugeyeguy.com sells a remote clutch bleeder attachment that probably makes it easier.
GB

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
could one of you guys give me a run down of how you would use an Ezi-bleed or whatever automatic bleeder?

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <
Chas 906 Avatar
Chas 906 Chuck Peterson
Iron Mountain, MI, USA   USA
1961 MG Midget MkI "Little Red Rider"
Carver. The Eezibleed bottle is filled with clean brake fluid. A supplied reservoir cap is put on your master or clutch reservoir. The air chuck is attached to either your front tire or a spare tire. 22psi is recommended, I used my front tire with 24psi and no issues. The whole system is instantly pressurized and then you can crack the slave bleed screw and bleed the clutch hydraulics. You can use the Eezibleed to bleed front and back brakes as well. The kit comes with many fittings and complete instructions. Really easy! I got mine from Amazon out of the UK a lot cheaper than Moss or VB. Took 3 weeks delivery. That was the only draw back.

Chas 906 Avatar
Chas 906 Chuck Peterson
Iron Mountain, MI, USA   USA
1961 MG Midget MkI "Little Red Rider"
Carver, see attached page from the Eezibleed instruction manual. First pic is the set up and second is what's included in the kit. This give ya an idea how it works.


Attachments:
Image.jpg    56.3 KB
Image.jpg

Chas 906 Avatar
Chas 906 Chuck Peterson
Iron Mountain, MI, USA   USA
1961 MG Midget MkI "Little Red Rider"
I'd send ya mine for the cost of shipping there and back. But for the cost, you'd be better off buying one and having it for any future issues. This is a must if a guy wants to work on these cars. You probably have separate reservoirs for the master and clutch. I have a shared one in my '61.

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
For shipping reasons, the slave is shipped with the bleed nipple in the wrong location. Some people figure it out and some dont. Caught me out once.

The one on the left is correct




If you use a tie wrap or somehow jam the cylinder all the way into the bore, air will have less volume to hide in, and you will know the system is bled when the pedal is rock-hard.

If you use one of the vacuum bleeders, use a heavy grease on the bleeder screw threads as mentioned before; make all the difference in the world.

It may well be that your master is also dead. Remind me....How did you decide it was the slave?

When bleeding a system that has been empty where I don't have a vacuum bleeder, I will often just remove the bleed screw an lightly put a finger over the blled hole. With a helper slowly pumping the pedal, your finger works as a one way valve and you can feel it as the air is displaced. If you don't feel any air pressure, the master is likely toast.

Pete

dlrhine Avatar
dlrhine Dave Rhine
South, Carolina, USA   USA
I bought the Gunsen Eezibleeder, well worth the money for me...
It also works great on the brakes.

Good Luck, keep us posted thumbs up



If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is! winking smiley

terryke5hwe Silver Member Terry Halbert
Rogers, AR - Arkansas, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500 "Midge"
1979 MG MGB "Money Pit!"
I had good luck with the H.F. pressure bleeder, worked first time for me. At $29.95 was cheap and easy, great for brakes too..

. Hide banner ads & support this website by becoming a > Gold Supporting Member <

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster