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I AM DESPERATE RIGHT NOW...SOS..SOS...SOS...How to bleed slave cylinder???

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CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
OK, so recently our clutch pedal in our 1975 MG Midget had no pressure at all (went straight to the floor with no resistance) having researched a Lot, we decided to replace the Slave cylinder and ah, whats the word, another piece for the clutch that I forgot the name of. So all of that went well, with no problem. But then we tried to bleed the clutch. Nothing happened. We tried reverse bleeding. Nothing. PLEASE HELP US!!!! The weather here is PERFECT for cruising, BUT OUR MG IS DEAD IN THE GARAGE!!! It is litterally driving me crazy.... >sad smiley

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Dutch 1960 Avatar
Dutch 1960 Mark Holland
San Diego, CA, USA   USA
I might get expelled from the forum for speaking blasphemy, but maybe it is time to have a mechanic take it on. Are you a member of the Auto Club for free towing?

I don’t know what you have been through, up to now, but if the system has fluid in it, even with a bit of air, you should get some pedal resistance. If you are putting fluid in it and things aren’t working, it must be coming out somewhere. Check along the lines and around the master cylinder. The entire clutch hydraulic system is external to the bellhousing and is mostly visible. Look for leaks.

CarverBoldman Carver Boldman
Kirbyville, MO, USA   USA
we did this process about 2 weeks ago, and no puddles or wet sploches have formed. And a mechanic IS working at it! He told ME to ask you guys!! Foreign car, foreign to his head. And no, I am not a member of either of those....sadly

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tdimock Avatar
tdimock Tom Dimock
Upstate NY, USA   USA
Here's how I bled the slave cylinder on my MGA:
1. Keep the hose attached to the slave, but unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell housing
2. Let the slave 'dangle' so that the air will rise out of the cylinder.
3. Make sure you have topped off your fluid. Leave the cap loose.
4. Let it sit overnight. The air bubbles will naturally rise and escape up your lines.
5. Re-attach the slave cylinder to the bell housing and test..

GILMGA Avatar
GILMGA Silver Member Gil Dupre
CHATTANOOGA, TN, USA   USA
1962 MG MGA
1974 MG MGB GT
I use avacum bleedet



Gil

bev sleet Avatar
bev sleet Bev S
Raunds, Northamptonshire, UK   GBR
Look at the master cylinder and take note that the pipe goes uphill for about 6 inches , it is at this point you may have an air bubble that is proving difficult to shift, to help level the pipe up get the front of the car as high as you can on axle stands then bleed again . safety precautions apply handbrake and chock rear wheels before you get under the car.


I assume when you fitted the new slave you have the bleed screw in the top hole when the slave is bolted up.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-29 03:51 PM by bev sleet.

Chas 906 Avatar
Chas 906 Chuck Peterson
Iron Mountain, MI, USA   USA
1961 MG Midget MkI "Little Red Rider"
The new slave cylinders come with the bleed screw in the wrong place. Be sure it's in the upper most port as Bev says. Apparently the Chinese don't know or care what is up from down! It only takes a little air to cause an issue. I had a new slave come to me with internal issues that didn't allow the slave rod to fully extend enough to allow the rod to disengage the clutch disc. Check your slave rod travel. It should be 3/4" plus movement. I had best results with the Gunson Eezibleed kit. Works on 22psi from your front tire.

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myred64mgb Kenn Stewart
La Verne, Southwest, USA   USA
If you happen to have replaced the clutch master cylinder you would want to make sure the holes in the bolt and back fitting are aligned to allow the flow of hydraulic fluid to the slave.
Just a thought...
Good luck
Kenn

zabond Russell Meehan
Neerim East, victoria, Australia   AUS
1966 MG Midget "Bridget"
when you depress the clutch pedal do you see any movement of the release fork? if not then you could try
1 push the slave cyl piston all the way in and hold it in [cable ties work]
2 open bleed nipple, slowly depress pedal and hold down
3 close nipple and slowly release pedal
4 repeat until pressure is felt
a lot of people try to bleed clutch the same as brakes, pump up til pressure, open-close bleed, pump again, but pumping a clutch m/cyl does not work, you have to slowly depress and release,

Russ

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trevorwj Avatar
trevorwj Trevor Jessie
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
+1 for the pressure bleed method.



Midget 50th - A Spridget Event
It was a Blast!
http://sprite-midgetclub.org/

infinity2018 Avatar
infinity2018 Joe T
Denver, CO, USA   USA
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Inca"
In reply to # 3706994 by bev sleet Look at the master cylinder and take note that the pipe goes uphill for about 6 inches , it is at this point you may have an air bubble that is proving difficult to shift, to help level the pipe up get the front of the car as high as you can on axle stands then bleed again . safety precautions apply handbrake and chock rear wheels before you get under the car.


I assume when you fitted the new slave you have the bleed screw in the top hole when the slave is bolted up.

Huh?? I've read that you have to jack up the back of the car, not the front... I have to bleed my clutch too because it grinds in all gears, but in researching this site, I've read about 56 different ways to do it....

Meredith Avatar
Meredith Jon M
Harper ferry, WV, USA   USA
Great tip. Thanks

GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
Easy as pie one person method (with a lift it's easier):

Remove slave from trans and position to where bleeder is facing up and is the highest part of the cylinder. Open bleeder and push SLAVE piston all the way in; close bleeder and release piston; repeat until only fluid comes out when pushing SLAVE PISTON back in with bleeder open.

What you're doing in essence is using the slave to suck fluid from the master cylinder instead of using the m/c to pressurise/force fluid to the slave.

bev sleet Avatar
bev sleet Bev S
Raunds, Northamptonshire, UK   GBR
Joe your quite right what you say and I've read the same post about raising the rear of the car, however I raise the front and it works for me, the pipe leaving the master goes uphill about 30 degrees so if you raise the rear of the car the pipe increases to about 50 degrees making it more difficult to clear an air bubble, like you I read dozens of different ways to bleed the clutch so I think it's trial and error but whatever works for you just remember it for future use,

sam-i-am Avatar
sam-i-am Sam L
Caledonia, Wisconsin, USA   USA
If you're going to the pump and release method, clamp the slave cyl so it has no movement, then it's like bleeding the brakes. Good luck!

Sam.

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