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Paint, powder coat, ceramic coat color preferences/opinions

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jaf1230 Gold Member Jesse Friedlander
Monticello, NY, USA   USA
I bought a '76 Midget a couple months ago, with enough rust around the body to warrant repainting the whole thing. I plan to do a frame-up paint job (and learn a lot in the process!). I'm definitely painting the body Aconite. I know it's a '74-75 color, but it's the color I want, so I'm going with it. If the previous sentence bothers you, please leave this thread before I make things much worse. I have a DGV that I have not yet installed, I'm buying a 4-2-1 Maniflow header to avoid clearance issues. I'm strongly considering having the header Jet-Hotted. I was thinking of having it done in Canary Yellow to complement the Aconite (see picture). Can anyone chime in with opinions on whether these colors would go together well? I know yellow and purple go well in general.
Since my exhaust is original and a bit rusty, and I'm getting headers and an exhaust, I'm considering having my local mechanic bend up new pipes to run between the two. I would get a resonator to put in there. I'm wondering whether or not to spend the money on having the pipe after the header coated, to try to keep the new one from rusting. Obviously, my mechanic and I are about the only people who would see the pipe, so I'm not sure that the color of the pipe matters much. I'm wondering if ceramic coating it would make any difference as far as temperature of anything (exhaust, seat of pants, etc) is concerned. Should I paint it instead? Should I leave it bare metal and not worry about it?
In my frame-up, I'm thinking of having the frame powder coated black, as I've heard that powder coating will hold up better than paint. If it makes any difference, I live in the Northeast, where we use road salt in the winter, and have potholes and sometimes tar and oil roads in the summer. Opinions on powder coating the frame black?
At some point, I'm going to pull the engine and do work on it, clean it up, and paint it. I read a thread on here advising against black because it makes seepage harder to notice/locate, and that sounds reasonable to me. I'm considering painting the engine yellow, to match the headers (which will be the color I want, and will be done a lot sooner than the engine, which is why I would match the engine to the headers). I would like opinions on that as well, please.
Last, if you have two cents to contribute on anything that I failed to ask, but is related, please let me know. Thanks!

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westfield7 Silver Member Michael Wooten
In the path of Totality, SC, USA   USA
1983 Westfield Seven "Green Car"
In my opinion, it would give off too much of a joker vibe for me. I would go with a polished silver header for a midget.

76lucas Avatar
76lucas Gold Member Josh L
Floyd, VA, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Parts Car"
I would do stainless on the exhaust under the car. No need to paint it if no one sees it. Not sure if powder coating it will make it that much longer lasting. There isn't a frame per say to really powder coat but if you do the underside make sure it's clean dry and rust free before since any moisture or rust under the paint will be trapped and can keep causing rust problems. And any dirt will keep the paint from adhering good. I'm not a big fan of yellow so I leave that to preference but I agree it would give off a slightly clownish look. The green used on the A-series engines would show leaks good. Black is ok you just have to keep it clean so you can spot the leaks easier. Courious to know why the DGV change over? Is it preference or needed?



If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it

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jaf1230 Gold Member Jesse Friedlander
Monticello, NY, USA   USA
Changing from ZS to DGV because my choke is stuck, my idle is extremely high (1800), it floods, and my wise local mechanic shop insists that I need a Weber. The owner is a long term family friend (brought my mother to the hospital to have me), and he and his wise guru type employee both want a Weber in that car. The guru owned a Midget back in the day.

That, and I can't afford dual SUs at the moment, given how much else I want to do to the car.

76lucas Avatar
76lucas Gold Member Josh L
Floyd, VA, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Parts Car"
Ah well then I won't tell you that the parts to fix the choke or even convert it to a manual choke cost about a third of what the weber did. devil smiley I suspect that when the guru had his the parts to fix the ZS were hard to get. I have nothing against the weber just against tossing good money to replace a part when fixing what's there is easier and cheaper. Then again some people swear that once they changed it made a world of difference. I am not so sure they aren't experincing a placebo effect. I.E. if someone tells you it's better you'll convince yourself it works better even if it's a pos. Just a fair warning while they are family friends don't let that effect your decisions too much. There weren't many places that fixed these cars when they were new and even less now. What I am trying to say is just because they own a garage and one of them had a midget years ago does not make them experts on them. A lot of their advice will be useful for the simple reason that all cars are at a basic level the same and somethings are true of all of them.



If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-12 09:24 PM by 76lucas.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
Jesse,
Colors are very personal and I would go with the colors you like and Jet Hot makes a great product. I would fabricate the rest of the exhaust out of stainless and leave it that way. As far as the underside is concerned I had my painter use Raptor bed liner product tinted to body color and it’s tough as nails. He painted the underside, wheel wells, front frame rails, anything that might see water including the inside floor pans for the future owner.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon


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dimini Avatar
dimini Don Ipock
Kansas City, MO, USA   USA
The ZS on my 1500 developed choke issues, which rapidly turned into major issues for noxious smoke, fouled plugs, etc. I was looking for an excuse to dump it but found dual SU’s to be too rare, and WAY TOO expensive in 2017, so I opted for 32/36 Weber. I can attest that it’s not a placebo improvement. The butt dyno says that it’s significantly better than the auto-choked, strangled ZS—even when it was running properly. I went with a manual choke, non-Chinese version. Yellow headers? Why not? I went with least-cost LCB header & header wrap. I don’t drive in snow and rarely in rain so I’ll allow time to tell whether header wrap is going to significantly alter the life span of the header (which only cost about $150–no big deal).

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76lucas Avatar
76lucas Gold Member Josh L
Floyd, VA, USA   USA
1978 MG Midget 1500
1979 MG Midget 1500 "Parts Car"
Ok so the auto choke ZS may not be a great carb but I do think alot of the problems that it get's blamed for are the fault of the emissions system and not the carb. I believe there is such a noticable difference with the weber is because there are no provisions with it to hook the emissions back up. I'd like to know just how much difference there really would be if the weber had to contend with the same emissions standards has the ZS did. Also I fail to see how 500 to 700 dollars for the weber conversion is the cheaper route.
Of course given that a new ZS is even less easy to find than the dual SU set-up and the DGV has already been purchased it's pretty much a mute point anyways If the weber is what it takes to get you going by all means use it. Have to agree with Rut colors are personal do what suits you that's what's great about these cars you can make it your own in what ever way you want. Oh but toss up some pics when your done so we can see it.



If you never try to do it You will never be able to do it

jaf1230 Gold Member Jesse Friedlander
Monticello, NY, USA   USA
Rut,
I really like your undercoating and think I may do something similar, though likely in black.

Josh,
As far as cost, I paid $320 for the Weber with header from Pierce. I guess that if you include the price of the header, that would go up, but hey, I get a header in the deal. Also, as far as emissions go, my car was already (sloppily) desmogged, and I don't have to pass emissions.

All,
My ZS is manual choke (as far as I can tell). I have a choke pull in the cabin. I already bought the Weber 32/36 DGV, so yeah, it's a moot point discussing getting the ZS working, but considering how little I know about the workings of carburetors in general and the Midget in particular, I prefer to start from a point where I know that all of my parts are in good condition.
I thought about coloring of the header, based on comments from folks in the thread, and I looked at the price difference, and decided to go with whatever Jet Hot calls their chrome-looking coat. It was $250 instead of $450 for the yellow.
I'm definitely planning to take care in removing the ZS and manifold, putting it on the shelf for a bit, and then possibly seeing if anyone wants it.

Still not sure what color I'd want to paint the engine...

And yes, I plan to post plenty of pictures. I also plan to do a write-up on setting tappet clearances, since I couldn't find a good write-up for someone who is a complete newbie, as I am. I ended up finding some instructions on how to do it on a Rabbit, I think it was, so I have an idea of what it is that I'm doing and how to go about it. It seems quite straightforward now that I've looked into it, but the fact that it's not in my Haynes manual and I couldn't find a good write-up on here got me a bit frustrated at first.

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jaf1230 Gold Member Jesse Friedlander
Monticello, NY, USA   USA
Rut,
Do you think I could have my floor lined like yours for durability, and then paint over the liner?

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
In reply to # 3696821 by jaf1230 Rut,
Do you think I could have my floor lined like yours for durability, and then paint over the liner?

Jesse,
They can tint the Raptor liner to match just about any color, so top coating won’t be necessary. So, if you want the underside black and the floors body color they can do it. Now to answer your question...I don’t know if it can be painted over.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
No matter what I did the stupid zenith had auto choke issues, usually would stick on fast idle. Manual choke FTW

dimini Avatar
dimini Don Ipock
Kansas City, MO, USA   USA
Jesse-
I see that you plan to use a header and new exhaust system, which is what I did as well. PM me if you are interested in knowing more about my results, which I'm very happy with.

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