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Project - Take Two

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idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
I spent a few hours yesterday cleaning up and assessing the car. There were a few surprises found but nothing too big to deal with, with the inner right rear chassis leg to transmission tunnel rust being the worst. I think I can get away with patching and bracing the floor pans rather than a full replacement. But the grinder will have the final say after it gets put to metal. It was nice to have all four of the seat belt anchor bolts come out easily and find out that the handbrake operates freely, so thumbs upthumbs up. I also took the opportunity to poorly slice out the rusted battery tray and heater box area since my sawzall was nearby. I'll clean up the rest later. Next up is the underbody and suspension.

Before:






After:








And Joe's new seats: winking smiley

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1974MGMidget Avatar
1974MGMidget Silver Member Jack Orkin
Grayson, GA, USA   USA
That's one cool looking steering wheel!winking smiley

idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
The PO thought so! He had aspirations of creating his own wood wheel using that as a core. Unfortunately it's of no use to me.

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littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"    & more
That's not the worst battery tray I've ever seen. Most of mine rusted below where a plastic tray keeps the battery "buoyant" and also on the firewall where the raised set-off areas were stamped. Snap a picture of the rusty area you said near the transmission tunnel. That sounds like a tough one to weld in unless you have the shell on a rotisserie.

idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 3679746 by littlecars That's not the worst battery tray I've ever seen. Most of mine rusted below where a plastic tray keeps the battery "buoyant" and also on the firewall where the raised set-off areas were stamped. Snap a picture of the rusty area you said near the transmission tunnel. That sounds like a tough one to weld in unless you have the shell on a rotisserie.

It may be tough to see on some monitors as the colors are all close together, but look directly above the hole in the floor board and you'll see the area. It should be doable without a rotisserie. *crosses fingers*


idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
Not much to update on the chassis lately but I have been busy this week getting things in line on the engine. Earlier this week the cylinder head was dropped off at the machine shop for cleaning and pressure testing. Yesterday ianjoub was kind enough to let me have a look at his Hayabusa MG project up close and discuss some points on it. And today I finally split the case on the 1200 for a closer inspection. Aside from the sludge in the sump and the rust leakage from cyl #4, everything was in surprisingly good shape for having 44k on the odometer and sitting outside in the rain for three years! I plan on replacing the mains, rod bearings, seals, and gaskets since it is apart but that should be about it. Next up is further disassembly of the drivetrain for cleaning and putting a piston in the mail to JE for sizing.





L8RSK8R Ciaran W
LA JOLLA, CA, USA   USA
Oh boy, anudder bike engine swap. I love it.
Those motors were about 145HP stock.

Hopefully you'll update as Ian Joub did thumbs up

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idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 3682846 by L8RSK8R Oh boy, anudder bike engine swap. I love it.
Those motors were about 145HP stock.

Hopefully you'll update as Ian Joub did thumbs up

Bingo. thumbs up Hopefully I'll be north of the stock 149 with the upgrades I have in store. We'll see that JE says about the pistons later next week. At the least I'm hoping to shave some weight off and bump the displacement. A more modern ring package should help things too.

idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
I made the most of the past weekend focusing on the MG. Things started Friday with word from my machinist that the Daytona cylinder head is cracked. thumbs down So I put out feelers in the States and threw a few emails across the pond hoping someone might have a spare to part with. Hopefully I'll hear some good news soon. There's currently one on eBay for $400 that's completely bare, but with the known and unknown costs of getting it prepped and built up I could easily be over the price of an entire used engine. Ironically there's also one entire engine on eBay for $1100... I won't be surprised if I have to pick up the whole engine as a lack of other options... At least I'll have plenty of spares on hand if needed... On Friday I picked up 12' of 1", 0.95" wall DOM for making front control arms, a 2'x4' of 14 ga sheet, 2'x4' of 16 ga sheet, and 2'x4' of 18 ga sheet for general patching on the chassis. Saturday was busy at the local wrecking yard where I snagged a 4.778-1 ring and pinion out of a 2000 Kia Sportage front diff for my Miata rear end and a pair of Miata front knuckles with hubs and 10" front brakes. Mazda sold their 7" diff package to various manufacturers over the years, it's also what's found in the Honda S2000. 4.778-1 seems really high at face value but with the Daytona's ratios it should work perfectly in the car. My MPH chart looks like this:

At 10,000 RPM with the 4.778 final drive on a 23" tire (225/45r15)...

Gear - Ratio - MPH
1st - 2.733 - 52.4
2nd - 1.947 - 73.55
3rd - 1.545 - 92.69
4th - 1.291 - 110.93
5th - 1.154 - 124.1
6th - 1.074 - 133.34

Today was about continuing on the chassis. The front end was disassembled, windshield removed, dash removed, sprayed every bolt in the rear with PB Blaster to loosen up, and found an unhealthy amount of additional holes in the floor pans. I was really hoping to be able to patch the few that were already there but at this point it's hopeless. So I sent an email off to Royal Restoration about getting a replacement set. Someone down the line also cared about the chassis and took to reinforcing the engine mount/spring/shock towers - that was good to see.








Btw - does anyone have recommendations on how to best remove the sound deadening on the transmission tunnel? Due to the contour (and gravity) dry ice wouldn't really work...



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-26 12:04 AM by idrivemyself.

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idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
After soaking in PB Blaster for a day I made quick work of the fuel tank and rear end tonight. Both are available if anyone has a need. Otherwise they'll be going to the recyclers sometime in the future. I'll create a for sale post with everything that was removed from the car later this week and give it all some time before it goes away. Any of the prior dash parts, suspension, steering, etc from other photos is available as well, fyi. Just let me know if there's a need and we'll work out the rest.



idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
I was at the Home Depot for another project and picked up a bottle of EZ Strip to try around the chassis to more clearly see the spot welds that I'll need to drill out. The directions advise to let it sit for 10-45 minutes before removing the paint/varnish/etc, and it worked ok for the spots I tested on so I got curious as to whether it would work on the transmission tunnel sound deadening. I brushed on an extra thick coat and let it sit for ~24 hours. Came right off with a putty knife and screwdriver. grinning smiley What's left is pretty minimal, just residual adhesive that should easily clean up with spirits at a later date or could be recovered with new insulation, we'll see.


idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
I managed some time for the MG today and made the most of it. First up was replacing the dented front cross member panel that someone had repeatedly used as a jack point with a new 14 ga. panel and an inner support of 2.5" 16 ga stainless pipe. Now with the inner support it can actually be used as a jack point without collapsing. I also needed to brace the cross member for modifications down the road... I'll probably put a second coat of Rustoleum on it later but it's sealed for now. While the primer was drying I finished stripping the rear of the chassis. Rear shocks, fuel pump, wiring, hoses, etc. And finally I got to have fun with the cut-off wheel. Given that the left chassis leg is rusted through 7-8" forward of the cabin cross member and that I could stand to move the chassis leg ~2" outward to clear around the oil pan, I'm debating doing just that. Regardless, it's going to be a hell of a lot easier to replace now that part of the firewall is out.











winking smiley

idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
The new full length floor pans arrived courtesy of Chris Saur of Royal Restorations. He did a great job on the creation and left plenty of extra steel to trim to fit, not to mention that they arrived at my door for $277 from Canada! thumbs upthumbs up


littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"    & more
In reply to # 3692572 by idrivemyself The new full length floor pans arrived courtesy of Chris Saur of Royal Restorations. He did a great job on the creation and left plenty of extra steel to trim to fit, not to mention that they arrived at my door for $277 from Canada! thumbs upthumbs up


Nice workmanship, nice price! You'll want to snip around the front spring tower/dimple things. Hopefully they are stable and not compromised from rust. Cheers! smileys with beer FYI, if you don't use the steel underneath the seats, I would be interested in those pieces.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-07 07:29 AM by littlecars.

idrivemyself Avatar
idrivemyself Kyle H
Middle of Knowhere, FL, USA   USA
You're talking about the front upper spring perches? Rusty or not, they're already on the "removal" list to make way for the push-rods. smiling smiley

I'll let you know when the inside c-channels are out. I was planning on tossing them and IIRC they're in ok shape, but you can be the judge.

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