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Datsun 210 5 speed transmission

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Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Thanks Guys, Will be something that I will want to check and correct for before final reassymebly. Don't need to have anything bumping into something else and causing issues.

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ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
Al, my installation was like Gregg's and like his I think the Rivergate kit mounts the trany lower to avoid having to nudge the bodywork. You haven't done anything to the way the frt of the engine mounts have you?
At any rate looks like you have made a nice correction to cure the problem.......necessity is the mother of invention!



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

anagy66 Avatar
anagy66 Al Nagy
Lititz, PA, USA   USA
Hi Larry, No changes to the front engine mounts, maybe caused by a normal production variation in how the cars were built. Al

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Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Flywheel is back so I laid it out on the floor with the new Datsun pressure plate and clutch next to it. The one at the bottom is the original one out of the Midget. As can be seen the Datsun set up is somewhat bigger and more robust in its construction.


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Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Progress has been a bit slow. But it is coming along. A few pic's of the modifications to the transmission so that it can be installed into the Midget. Maid the cut out for the oil pump cover in the edge of the transmission case, ground down that ridge along the top of the transmission, took off a portion of the ridge near the bottom bolt holes for access, installed plug in place of backup light switch, hooked up new speedo cable, replaced both front and rear seals, installed new boot around clutch lever arm, and installed the new throw out bearing.
Not sure if I need to drill out the threads in the bottom holes in the transmission. Will need to contact Gerard and ask. I think so as I believe that there will be through bolts install in that location to mate transmission to adapter plate.
Next will be to tear down the engine so that I can install and set up the new cam, lifters, and rockers. Rebuild SU carbs and install.
Goal is to have everything done in time for first car show late in March.


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nassau66 Larry Cross
Browns Mills, NJ, USA   USA
Nice '66. It's even the right color!

Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Yes Larry, you are correct it is the right color. It is the next project on the to do list. Talked my mom out of it awhile back it was her second husbands car that he had ordered for himself while working a Chevy dealership in White Salmon, Wa. 327 V-8 with a auto trans. Not a number matching car anymore as it is on its second motor. But I don't care and my plan is to keep it very close to stock. Have been picking up parts a little at a time for it.

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Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Finally got the motor and transmission back together and into the car. Got the drive line all hooked up and it turns freely without hitting the transmission tunnel. I took a small jack and placed it into the tunnel while all was out and pushed out the tunnel a little in all directions right where the u-joint and yoke ended up to give them more space. I have got all the new motor mounts installed loosely and have got the side bolts into the transmission mount but am having a hard time getting the lower bolts aligned and into the transmission mount. Going to have to bring home an alignment bar from work, I can see the bolt holes but just cannot get them started. This whole change over has taken a lot longer then I thought it would but that is the way it always seams to go for me.
Still lots to do need to adjust the valves, fill all with fluids and finish putting on all the little bits and piece's.
Last thing will be to rebuild the old SU carbs that came with the car and put them back into service.


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nassau66 Larry Cross
Browns Mills, NJ, USA   USA
Carl,
RE the lower trans mount bolts. What I did was (without the side bolts installed) remove the lower engine mount bolts and slide the whole shebang forward a bit. This made it a snap to get the lower bolts started. Slide everything back and reinstall the engine mount bolts and then do the side bolts.

Full disclosure - Not an original idea. Spelled out in the Rivergate installation instructions.

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Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Larry Thanks for the suggestion. I'm using Gerards kit for my install, I can see the holes up through the lower openings but they are just not centered perfectly. off to the side just slightly. everything is still loose but just cannot get them aligned enough to start. Bringing home an alignment pick form work tomorrow to see if I can move mount over enough to get the bolts started. All else has went along about as expected. I did try the bolts in the mount before installing into the car so I know that they are the correct size.

JeffinMI Avatar
JeffinMI Gold Member Jeff Baran
West Bloomfield, MI, USA   USA
I had to fiddle around with the side bolts and the bottom bolts. I ended up using a similar sized phillips screen driver as an alignment rod and was able to move things around enough to get them installed. Some dog point bolts would have made it easier, but I didn't have any around, I had also chased all the threads on the brackets before and also used some anti-seize so once they started they were easy to thread in. Good luck with the rest of the install.



1972 MG Midget - Currently Under restoration

Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Small steps at a time. Brought home an alignment tool from work think same pointed pry bar and was able to move the bracket around enough to get the lower bolts started into the mount. Found that the top bolt for the slave cylinder was hitting on the frame, so I jacked up the trans and motor slightly and used a large punch to collapse a small space next to the mounting bolt. Now have about an 1/8" of clearance between the two. Will push the motor over as far as possible to the P/S of car before tightening down the motor mounts and that should give me even more room there.

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
I had some of the same issues, bolt on the slave was pretty much on the frame rail, maybe 1/8" of clearance. I wasn't happy with that so with my turbo install I pulled the motor and trans and clearanced the frame there, didn't take much but now its got plenty of room. Also with my mini starter I had to clearance the passenger footwell.

The driveshaft and tunnel bothered me though. Mine didn't hit, but you couldn't slide the driveshaft out with the engine and trans in place Im my eyes this is unacceptable. So I cut the floor and but a curve in a piece of sheet metal and welded it back in. Just a little bit of a hump to clear the yoke so it can be pulled and installed with everything assembled. My car is far from done paint and body wise so it wasn't an issue for me to cut and splice to properly clearance things. Your gonna love that 5 speed. Changes the car in wonderful ways! Love the motor color, lookin good!

Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Mark, Thanks for the comments. I'm slowly getting there stopped at the local hydrolic shop and got a hose on order with the correct fittings to run from the master to the slave. Will be getting it in a day or two. Pulled the exhaust off this evening so that I can take it in and have a new pipe made up. It is now too short after changing out to the Maniflow header from the cheap one that was on the car. Yes I like the engine color as well it is an old Detroit Diesel color. Not the correct color but I'm not keeping the car correct obviously. I have been following your build as well and have enjoyed seeing what you have done to your's.

Carl

Windrideror Avatar
Windrideror Carl Rosenburg
Redmond, OR, USA   USA
Clutch line installed and slave cylinder bleed. Used a Harbor Freight vacuum bleeder, went good, Just kept the master cylinder filled up while bleeding the system. I have seen lots of posts where people have trouble getting the systems bleed out. But so far using the vacuum bleeder and keeping the master filled I have had good luck, both on the brakes and on the clutch.
Got the new exhaust pipe installed and hooked up at both ends,
Valves are now lashed at .015 due to the1.5 rockers that were installed with the new cam.
Transmission has been filled with Redline MT-90. Thanks to the recommendations from folks on this site.
Transmission shifts into all gears easily without engine running.
Still have to fill the engine with oil, gap and install spark plugs static time the engine and install some carbs onto the motor.
Getting there slowly.

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