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Bugeye Turbo project

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autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Finally got the carb, after floating around at the post office for a week they delivered it, so they said, never knocked on the door but a note saying they attemped was, anyway ill spare you my dislike of the postal serrvice. Arrived in one piece well packed thank god. Only issue was the float bowl cover was a bit warped. Probaly wouldnt have leaked, but the other cover I had was in better shape so I swapped em, and put in the stock metro turbo needle BDD I think it was.

Welded on a tab for the throttle cable. The stock metro abutment plate has hooks for a fiberglass heat shield that well falls apart, so I went with a standard plate then made an aluminum basket which ill put some more heat insulating stuff on. Came out well I think. Filled the trans back up, and hooked up the lines. Im curious as to how the factory did it though. All the ports on the regulator expect the boost refference port are 3/8" But the fuel inlet is 1/4" Do they have a special hose or use adaptors to size the line down? WTF. Anyway, got her fired up. Runs better when I have fuel in the tank though. Idles well after the usual fiddeling.

Leaks water from the heater flange on the head and he upper hose, but no oil leaks that I can see. Waiting for a fitting for the breather into the intake tube, and had to adjust my air filter stuff to fit under the hood. Sounds good so far, I cant wait to spit it round the block! But I still hae to swap the dizzy to my locked timing version, and then ill prolly see how it runs. It will get a megasquirt V2.2 for timing only once I verify everything mechainical is sound. Ill use that for a full 12x12 timing map, and fuel pump control. It will prime the pump for 2 seconds on key on and shut the pump off if there is on RPM. I hate having the pump run with just the key, never safe IMO. Also gonna weld in an O2 bung for tuning purposes to be sure its all happy before I really go beat on it. My buddy has a wideband im gonna borrow. Last thing I wanna do is burn a valve or melt a piston cause its to lean somewhere.













Mark

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
Awesome job!

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

BlueMax1 Avatar
BlueMax1 A G
?, ?, USA   USA
Lot of sweat equity, nice job! Love to see your HP numbers to total dollars in comparison to a 1380 build?

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trevorwj Avatar
trevorwj Trevor Jessie
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
It might make less power than a a well built 1380 (or more ... I really have no clue), but there is a different feel to a forced induction car that adds to the fun factor. The turbo lag creates a sort of elastic feel to the acceleration and the on boost torque adds another dimension to the cars. I drive my spridgets because it is an experience and forced induction just adds to the excitement ... regardless of the peak power.

For me personally, there are other reasons to install a turbo beyond horsepower or cost.



Midget 50th - A Spridget Event
It was a Blast!
http://sprite-midgetclub.org/

Denis Avatar
Denis Denis Hill
Bearii, Nth Victoria, Australia   AUS
Great, Mark eager to see the results.
Denis



68 B roadster, Daffodil yellow, supercharger, Burgess SC head, SC cam, Mikuni HSR 48 carburetor and engine built for supercharging.

73 BGT V8 conversion starting with a bare shell. Built the engine early in 2016 with high comp pistons and a few other nice bits. Started on the body late 2016 and found Its a lot of work and expense starting from scratch. Did the work myself, mechanical, body. paint etc all except the interior trim.
Finished and going well, great to drive and quick. Now has a nice 3.07 LSD.

Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
Wow, what an amazing amount of effort you've put into this project! I'm eager to see her out on the road, too!

Joel


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autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Thbaos for the comments. I'm pretty happy so far with it. And I've had turbo cars for years so yeah boost is addicting. I went this route vs a 1380 for cost reasons. Its capable of more than a 1380 depending on how far you wanna turn the wick, and those are results from the turbo mini guys. Appearbtly 140, 150hp is reasonable. But for me if its 100osh hp at the wheels the torque will be right where I like it and its gonna be pretty damn fun. I am curious to see how quick I get boost with that tiny turbo. I have no doubts the dravibiliry will be goodnight and I'm not gonna he revving the nuts off of it anyway. I didn't wanna deal with head work the cam all that other stuff haha. Though I'll prolly end up with a set of roller rockers cause mine are fairly worn

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Hehe. She feels pretty damn good. I had to run it around the block and then grabbed the wife to take the cam with her. It runs amazingly well. I think its a little lean at just off idle loaded up, like when you take off...it doesnt like starting from a stop untill its good and warm. I have a fuel leak at the sender on the tank, so I need to reseal the stupid pipe fittings for the feed and retun lines. I need to yank the exhaust one more time to weld in an O2 bung and im gonna borrow a buddies wide band sensor to check the AFRs to be sure its all happy. But the power comes on smoothly and very linear, not a big kick in the pants. Tiny turbo FTW in this case, and it makes tiny turbo noises! Exhaust is a little louder than I wanted, but then again its got a tiny small glasspack on it, so thats to be expected.

And I need to get vacuum to the breather, its dripping a little more oil than usual cause I have no constant vacuum to the breather. I have the oil seperator plumbed into the intake pipe into the turbo which is pretty standard, but I have no vacuum source for off boost PCV. I have the big banjo on top of the manifold, thats it for manifold vacuum, and I need to split that into 3 seperate vacuum ports. Blow-off valve, breather and for the megasquirt refference. The breather I think I will pull the stock little orificae out of the valve cover for the air in and put a filter on it for air in. Then I have a check valve for the manifold vacuum hookup. What is killin me is the different sized everything! The oil seperator is arounbd 1/2", the inlet banjo fitting on the turbo intake is 3/8, and I dont need anything bigger than 1/4" for the vacuum hose to the manifold, if even that much. I may have to choke that down to something smaller so I dont lean it out too much as there is no PCV valve. Im open to suggestions. Volvo never ran a PCV valve, and they used a small vacuum line for the constant vacuum, and that was teed into the turbo lntake like I did. I found a left over ford PCV valve fitting that slips onto the PCV valve thats 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4 inch in a tee form. So that works out.

Ignition timing is where ever I set it years ago, and its got about 10-12 degrees centrifugal, so Im gussing about 22 degrees total, kept the vacuum adjance disconnected. I dont hear any pinging, and its only running about 4 lbs boost. But that will be delt with when I get the MS in for the spark control. This motor is also a late smog motor, so 8.8:1 compressin, and that was when it was new, and new its not. Thought when I got the motor I stuffed rings in it.

Now that the hood is a flip top instead of a lift up I need a hood latch so I hit the bone yard yesterday, picked up two styles but the one I wanted from a Volvo 240 ( a 242GT actually, pretty damn sad to see the car in the state it was being a real GT) its a pin type. So a plate bolts to the hood with the saftey catch and the spring on the pin. Catch will mount to a bracket that Ill mount to the firewall most likely on the drivers side.

The lines are all heat wrapped, though i kinda want the oil line to the turbo longer so I can tie it up higher. Also got a Setrab fan switch, on at 200 off at 185. Nice to not hear the fan turn on and never turn off now. And the temp on and off is pretty much dead on.

I need to flush the cooling system, it was in service for 2 years so it was on the dirty side, just have water in it now. So yeah, breather, vacuum ports, megasquirt the ignition, coolant flush, still waiting on my axles from Peter may, going on 2 months now, fix the fual leak, tidy up wiring to the fuel pump, extend wiring to the bonnet now that its a flip top instead of a lift up, hood latch, O2 sensor for tuning, new heater ducting, etc etc etc. Still have random things I wanna redo and change, so Ill fix that here and there, changing a rubber line to a hard line, still needs more heat insulation for the footwell, etc etc.

A video and I didnt take many pics of some of the details, just too much goin on this weekend.













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halloween Gregg B
Sheridan, WY, USA   USA
Regarding PCV valve; Google Wagner adjustable PCV valves. I bought one for my Midget and the results were positive, so I bought another one for my BE project. Kind of pricey, but it does run and ventilate better. Worth it.
GB

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
In reply to # 3717651 by halloween Regarding PCV valve; Google Wagner adjustable PCV valves. I bought one for my Midget and the results were positive, so I bought another one for my BE project. Kind of pricey, but it does run and ventilate better. Worth it.
GB

Very cool piece, price seems on par with the engineering, but waaaay too much for me right now, and I dont know if they use it in a boosted application. Either way all I really need is a single small vacuum port, something like a 5/32 port, nothing special. I just ned to figure out how to get more ports into the stock banjo fitting I have. I need to drill and priobably press more ports into it. I will keep this adjustible PCV in mind though

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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
Hey, congrats, Mark! It sounds smooth!

Joel


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autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
SO, got the breather hooked up. One of the banjo bolts I have for the intake was drilled and tapped as a 1/8NPT and had what Im guessing was a breather port in it. SO I stuck a street 90 on there and teed it into the breather lines between the turbo intake and the oil seperator. Put a check valve inline to keep boost from getting into the crankcase, and no more oil drips, working pretty damn well actually.

Stuck an O2 bung and a wideband in the exhaut and drove it around today. Idles around 12.7:1, cruise is 12.5-13.5 or so, WOT and heavy throttle around 11-11.5. So at some lighter throttle points it seems a bit rich, but overall its pretty much dead on its frekin awesome. Even with the centrifugal advance only running around 20-22 deg total it runs sweet. Im sure getting some advance eventually on light throttle will level out that littile bit of richness. Im really happpy wtih it, its so much smoother on accel and cruise, that small turbo spools up quick and easily and the power is fairly linear. power backs off at around 5500RPM, im guessing its the cam. This was a last year 1275 so far as I know. Low compression smog goodies and im pretty sure the cam is the biggest issue with that. Its a littile louder than I want it but Ill let it ride for now. Sounds frekin awesome, lift and decell from higher RPM its got a sweet pop and crackle that is super sweet. Oh and for what ever reason I noticed a loose terminal on the balast resistor, and found the ceramic inside broken, so that was awesome haha, wire wasnt broken though.

But even with the exhaust wrapped the foot well gets toasty. I have some thing on plan for heat insulation, but I dnno If I can put em in with the engine and trans in. Everything get hot, but it always has. Foot wells, tunnel, etc etc. So Im open to suggestions. We have stick on 1/4" thick panels of heat protectantat with a foil top layer at work we use on the builds, that with the combo of an aluminum sheet and a small air gap does wonders for heat but there is so little room. Any way a few last pics for now...













Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 3721868 by autocomman SO, got the breather hooked up. One of the banjo bolts I have for the intake was drilled and tapped as a 1/8NPT and had what Im guessing was a breather port in it. SO I stuck a street 90 on there and teed it into the breather lines between the turbo intake and the oil seperator. Put a check valve inline to keep boost from getting into the crankcase, and no more oil drips, working pretty damn well actually.

Stuck an O2 bung and a wideband in the exhaut and drove it around today. Idles around 12.7:1, cruise is 12.5-13.5 or so, WOT and heavy throttle around 11-11.5. So at some lighter throttle points it seems a bit rich, but overall its pretty much dead on its frekin awesome. Even with the centrifugal advance only running around 20-22 deg total it runs sweet. Im sure getting some advance eventually on light throttle will level out that littile bit of richness. Im really happpy wtih it, its so much smoother on accel and cruise, that small turbo spools up quick and easily and the power is fairly linear. power backs off at around 5500RPM, im guessing its the cam. This was a last year 1275 so far as I know. Low compression smog goodies and im pretty sure the cam is the biggest issue with that. Its a littile louder than I want it but Ill let it ride for now. Sounds frekin awesome, lift and decell from higher RPM its got a sweet pop and crackle that is super sweet. Oh and for what ever reason I noticed a loose terminal on the balast resistor, and found the ceramic inside broken, so that was awesome haha, wire wasnt broken though.

But even with the exhaust wrapped the foot well gets toasty. I have some thing on plan for heat insulation, but I dnno If I can put em in with the engine and trans in. Everything get hot, but it always has. Foot wells, tunnel, etc etc. So Im open to suggestions. We have stick on 1/4" thick panels of heat protectantat with a foil top layer at work we use on the builds, that with the combo of an aluminum sheet and a small air gap does wonders for heat but there is so little room. Any way a few last pics for now...

Mark,

Congratulations! Could you remind me what your spring and needle choices are? I'm wanting to have a nice ballpark for the initial setup on my own HIF44-based system.

I agree on steady-state she's running a little too rich, but nice insurance on the WOT running with a forced-induction engine.

On the exhaust/heat shield quandary, I have a creative thought.

I wonder if you could use larger diameter exhaust pipe to make a heat shield that 'shadowed' the route of your exhaust system to fit into a really tight areas. They make pipe in every diameter imaginable nowadays, and most shops carry them by the foot, especially with the big diesel pickups on the road.

I guess I'd explain the method of fabrication I'm thinking of something like this:

1) bend up the larger O.D. pipe to mirror the bends of your existing system as precisely as possible;

2) use a band saw to slice the 'shadow' exhaust down the long way, so as to create curved panels that will fit in between the actual exhaust and the body panels you want to shield from heat; and then

3) tack weld on little tabs to mount what is now a 'mirror-image' custom heat shield.

Hope that helps!

Joel



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-04-22 05:50 PM by Yankeedriver.


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Denis Avatar
Denis Denis Hill
Bearii, Nth Victoria, Australia   AUS
Good on you Mark. Great job Denis



68 B roadster, Daffodil yellow, supercharger, Burgess SC head, SC cam, Mikuni HSR 48 carburetor and engine built for supercharging.

73 BGT V8 conversion starting with a bare shell. Built the engine early in 2016 with high comp pistons and a few other nice bits. Started on the body late 2016 and found Its a lot of work and expense starting from scratch. Did the work myself, mechanical, body. paint etc all except the interior trim.
Finished and going well, great to drive and quick. Now has a nice 3.07 LSD.

trevorwj Avatar
trevorwj Trevor Jessie
Louisville, KY, USA   USA
Regarding the heatshield, I once knew a guy that made heat shields from old fluorescent light fixtures.



Midget 50th - A Spridget Event
It was a Blast!
http://sprite-midgetclub.org/

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