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Bugeye Turbo project

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autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Yeah I'm not sure it will clean mine either and I have less space than you. And it's for the ECT, the fan switch went in the radiator so far as ilI can tell on the efi minis.

Well my project escillated quickly...looking at it there was no way I could run new lines with the motor in the car. So 1 hour later it was on the ground. I don't like plumbing, bending lines etc. But I will say this came out pretty nice. I'm not sure it would have been done with one roll (25feet). It would have been close. And you couldn't make any mistakes. Since I didn't like the first routing I had extra to mess up and believe me I messed up a few times. There was no way I could have done them in one shot hence the compression couplers. I need to make a few aluminum pads to sit the lines on so I can clam em down cause of how the fittings sit. But overall I'm very happy with the result. The lines come up right where I need them, and they are away from the exhaust. And Im gonna end up redoing the brake lines when I do he final teardown for paint.

I'm gonna take the opportunity with the motor out to weld up some extra holes and to clearance the starter better and the slave cylinder. Things too close for me than I can get done now. Also gotta get a fuel filter, almost forgot bout that. I'll just use a shad are mid 90s gm filter, the kind with the orings in the end of the line. I'll pick up the fittings this week.















Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-04 06:25 PM by autocomman.

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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
Yeah, I think bending up the return line was my least favorite part of the job thus far. Nice-looking bends, though! I'm envious of your exhaust, by the way. I've really got to buy a welder and bribe the machinst's son to teach me how to use it!

As for the temp sensor: this discussion just inspired an idea that will solve the dual-sensor problem--and I wish I'd have thought of it earlier. It will work for you Bugeye owners, too.

I'm going to make up a little riser block that will accept the standard GM temp sensor in its side--so, aimed 90 degrees from the head for good accessibility--and threaded on top, to take either the OEM Spridget heater tap or (in my case) a standard NPT elbow to hook up the in-line spigot that affords clearance for my blower's inlet snorkel (see pic).

They will be really inexpensive to have made, I would think. I'll talk to my CNC machinist when he calls about the crank pulley--this week, I hope. If he's not into it, I'll make up a couple out of some leftover aluminum bar I've got in the bin.

Joel


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Heater control(1).jpg    50.4 KB
Heater control(1).jpg

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Yeah a simple block with some threaded holes is the way to go for the temp sensor issues. Exhaust can be tough. I'm not happy with it really and I'll probably have a shop do a proper stainless exhaust at some point. It sits too low and etc etc...just not happy with it.

But the welder...spend a few $$ and get a Lincoln or a Miller. Worth it no question. One if the best tools ive bought. It's seen a lot of use too...that and a sawzall turned a volvo 240 wagon into a truck haha

Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 3691354 by autocomman Yeah a simple block with some threaded holes is the way to go for the temp sensor issues. Exhaust can be tough. I'm not happy with it really and I'll probably have a shop do a proper stainless exhaust at some point. It sits too low and etc etc...just not happy with it.

But the welder...spend a few $$ and get a Lincoln or a Miller. Worth it no question. One if the best tools ive bought. It's seen a lot of use too...that and a sawzall turned a volvo 240 wagon into a truck haha

Okay, thanks, will do!

Joel


Member Services:
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autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Got the fuel system plumbed and done! Well I need a fuel filter bracket and some more fancy stainless clamps to hold the lines but otherwise, its been run and leak tested and it all bueno. No leaks, pump is uber quiet and the rising rate regulator works like it should. Its the factory one for the metro so I assume its dialed in, but ill need to verify the lbs of boost per lbs of fuel pressure. I attached a video of it. Hard to get pics that do it justice, but the install is nice and clean im really happy with it.

Also clearanced the footwell for the starter properly. Or should I say I cut metal out, i just need to get some sheet metal to put back in. Its frustrating. Lots of people put this starter in with no issues, (gerards garage) but i had nothing but issues with clearance. Its adjustible 12 different ways and only really fits this way, and I had to drill holes in the mouting plate to get it to fit. What ever, its been in there for years with no operating issues, the hammer marks from my previous clearancing were bothering me. I also had no idea there was a gap between the bottom of the toeboard and the footwell. It makes sense, but I never thought about it till I cut that section open and saw it heh.

And Im not sure about my oil drain. I need a 90 deg hose thats oil compatible, and silicone is not. I may just put a tube in the pan to drain it, I need to be sure I get it above the level of the oil though. So Ill do that before the engine goes back in.












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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
Looking good, man! Can't wait to see her go-go-go.

Joel


Member Services:
Innovative DIY performance and reliability upgrades.
autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Engine is back in the car! Starter and slave cylinder have been clearanced and Im happy with the results. Grinding and more metal finishing will be done when the car is eventually taken apart for paint and body. But Im happy. The exhaust manofild hogged out for the tiny hole in the turbo. Also redid the oil drain tube setup now the motor was out of the car. I needed to rotate the compresor housing a bit to better clear the steering column, which put the intake hose into my new fuel lines, but the oil drain was in the way, so now there is clearance and I dont need a 90deg hose rated for oil, which was becoming an issue to find. a straight hose will take its place. And its not as tilted as it looks, I dont think draining will be an issue. At this rate it may just run next weekend. I still need to replace the frame extension on the left side though. Since the bonnet will be a front tilt I need to make sure they are level and straight, and the left one is sligtly off. You can tell by the wrinkle. But anyway, good times!

Also the floor pan. On the drivers side a large square was already cut out so I filled it in flat. The pasasnger side was stock and now has rusted through. Im thinkin ill do like the drivers side and Just make it flat. The factory dip seems stupid, a perfect place for water to collect and rust the floor out. Thoughts?









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ice Avatar
ice Gold Member Larry Ice
Lawrenceville, GA, USA   USA
Mark, your project seems to be coming along well! I replaced the floor in my 71 and 67 using 20ga. SS. I thought the dip in the pan was of little use so I skipped that step. The SS pan will preclude a rust problem anyways. I'll see if I can come up with a pic of the pan.



Iceman

Atlanta GA

60 AH MK1
62 AH MKII
67 Midget
71 Midget

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
More done! Got the oil drain done and the water cooling done. Feeds from the heater fitting on the back of the head returns to the crossover pipe. Yes, I know it bypasses the radiator, but in the long run I dont see that little bit of flow being an issue. GOt the frame extention back on and the radiator support in place. And fired it up! Well i let the pump fill the float bowl first, and it just pisses out of a press in plug. Im not sure what the passage is for, but its on the choke circuit. It looks as it may be part of some other option for a different engine application. After the issues with that and not being able to find a proper arm for the throttle since its on the opposite of the carb than it usually is, im just gonna soruce a proper turbo carb. I rebuilt this one for boost, using a turbo rebuild kit, the BDD needle, and flipping the shaft seals, but the proper blow thorugh carb has a retainer clamp for the dashpot, a seal around the dashpot housing etc etc. Not gonna be cheep but I wanna be done with it.

Also the oil fitting on the top of the turbo is leaking. Im not sure if I have any coolant leaks either yet as I havent filled the system yet. But it fired up, sounded good...no complaints so far.












Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
From the photos I can't follow how your heater is hooked up. There seems to be something to the right of the heater matrix, and a tee on the head. How will you control the heater (turn off the water flow to the heater in the summer?).

Water will either go from the crossover pipe to the tee on the head, or from the tee to the crossover pipe, or simply sit still, depending on if there is pressure pushing it or if it will short circuit the water pump and not circulate at all.

It probably will just sit still, since you've got the heater pipe on the left going to the bottom hose (using the original pipe along the top of the intake manifold), and the heater pipe on the right also going to the bottom hose (using your new fitting on your lower crossover pipe).


If this is correct, you can fix it by instead running your heater pipe on the right to the top radiator hose. Some folks have done this by cutting a section of bottom hose (with the 1/2" tee molded into it) and using that as a top hose, or you could use a thermostat spacer plate which has the 1/2" fitting, as used on the late model 1275 minis. In fact, if you did use a mini spacer plate, you could run that right hose above the spark plugs (very clean).

The sandwich plate is item #7 or 8 in the attached link:
https://www.minimania.com/catPage/1-8/1/8/1/Water-Pump-and-Thermostat-from-V134455-1275-MPI-96-on

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autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
I have a cable operated heater valve and the heater return dumps into the lower hose as it did from the factory. My thoMy ights were coolant pumps out of the heater tap. Even if coolant flows to the heater coolant will still flow into the turbo. It returns from the turbo into the lower hose like the heater does and back into the block. Ideally I should return it to a sandwich plate which I have. But plumbing a line up there isn't so much a straight shot and im not sure the added height will clear the hood.

I do have an adaptor in the upper hose for a temp sensor for a fan which I never used. I could plumb the return into that. But thermostat closed there wont be any flow there so far as I know.

Mini guys fees the turbo from the block drain at cyl 4, but the exhaust being right there It gets too close to the hose. They normally return to the sandwich plate...but again clearance may be an issue. I read one guy ran it to the lower hose like I did with no issues

My biggest issue is the leaking carb

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Well I could probably have the carb fixed but I want this done and I've hit the point in my life where sometimes I'd rather just get the correct part I stead of making one work. So I shelled out the $$ for a proper metro turbo HIF44. Should have it in a week or so, rebuilt and ready to go. Oiy it wasn't cheep...but ya pay to play

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autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
Still gonna be a little bit before I get the new carb, and probably a month before I see my axles. So I did the reverse tilt bonnet. Man I wish I did this eariler.

First off, removing or installing the bonnet sucks, takes 3 people easily. Also whhen you sit the bonnet on the supports it pulls up the cowl side of the bonnet. So when Id put the bonnet down it was always high, never fit quite right. Though Im sure it doesnt help my bonnet has been tweaked in many little ways.

Anyway...when I got my car the previous owner had a gerards garage kit, or so I was told. It looks like his kit, nice hardware, billet aluminum etc etc. The quality of the kit was good, hardware good, what was frustrating is I had to hit all the holes with a 3/8 drill bit to get the hardware through and seeing as the parts were im guessing waterjetted or CNCd all the edges were crisp and sharp. Id perfered to have the edged chamfered just a little to well, take the edge off. Anyway, like I said I got it in a box was told its gereards garage, so who knows what it actually was, ad the overall quality was very good, just some personal prefferenes. Its a fantastic kit. Easy to install, works perfectly. Im super pleased with the results. The hood sits properly on the car now, not high, riight down on the stops like it should. Pull it up in the middle and the sides dont scrape the foot wells, and its totally up and out of the way. AND to take it off all I have to do is pull the 2 bolts on the hinge and lift hte hood straight off.

For the catch I may hit the junk hard to find a simple hood latch or, ill get an old school pin type hood lock on a cable and mount it up by the cowl, probably closer to the passanger side I may go with the latch type so if i ever break a cable I can have an access hole behind the dash where i can put a tool in to pop the hood open.

Onto the pics!








Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
...it only takes a second to chamfer holes with a large drill bit, you can do it yourself (also, places like Harbor Freight sell dedicated chamfering tools which also work very well, but any large drill bit works fine in a pinch).

Great looking bug eye conversion!
Will it be possible to hook up the fresh air intake hose once the bonnet is closed?


N

autocomman mark w
lost angy, USA   USA
The edges of the pieces I wanted chambered, the holes I had to open up woth a 3/8 drill bit. I have no idea about the fresh air hose..i never had it on nor is it a big concern for me at the moment haha.

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