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Front End, steering rack, kingpins, etc.

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Bandslak Brian Lake
Oshawa, ON, Canada   CAN
This has been one of those days when I wonder "why bother" but as my wife said, "what else would you do with your time?"

Anyway, started out going to Canadian Tire to get some of the recommended lubricants. Got the 20W50 oil and general purpose grease but could not find any of the SAE90 or SAE140 although they did have some variations of those. What would others be using on the rear axle and the steering rack?

Speaking of steering rack, one of my manuals says to fill it up but does not say where? My rack has two bolts, one on each end (manual calls them Damper pad cap and Secondary damper cap). Do I take both these off and fill her up? I also seem to remember reading about undoing one end of each gaiter and putting 10-15 squirts of oil in each. And elsewhere it said something about putting oil in your grease gun and putting it through the grease nipple?

Next and the most enjoyable part of the day was trying to put together the wishbone, kingpin and stub axle. After finally getting the cork washers on the inside narrow end of the wishbone I attempted to install (a job I was expecting to be quite easy) the cotter pins in each bottom of the king pin. Someone please tell me the secret. After taking them in and out and adjusting the fulcrum pin numerous times and pounding on them with my hard plastic mallet (without success) I finally grabbed a large ball peen hammer and went at them again. No luck. I managed to knock one of them out but the other is still stuck, waiting for tomorrow.

Needless to say I will be ordering another couple of pins (by the way, these pins only came with a nut, no washer as shown in most diagrams. Is this normal nowadays? The nuts were not lock nuts).

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.......thanks....Brian

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Mainline Ilya Avatar
Mainline Ilya Ilya K
Ray Brook, NY, USA   USA
Easiest way is off the car and give er a good pounding. You really want a nice, hard surface underneath the thing, but make sure you have little bit of room for the pin to come out on the other side. A drift works well to finish seating it. If you can wait a while long, i will make a video once i get my back-ordered warranty A Arm (another story for another day but I'm truly amazed that it actually happened)

TheLastDeadMouse Avatar
TheLastDeadMouse Tim Vollmer
Potsdam, NY, USA   USA
Make sure you seat it in all the way before putting the nut and washer on. If you attempt to pull it in the rest of the way by tightening the nut you'll just pull the threads clean off the pin. Ask how I know. eye rolling smiley

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moebuster Avatar
moebuster Keith Montgomery
Athens, AL, USA   USA
I used a super penetrant call Kroil and let it soak overnight.
then put the nut back on flush with the top of the screw head and gave it a few whacks with a hammer.
more of a hard tap as opposed to hitting it.
don't want to kneel it or bend it over even if you are replacing it.

Kroil. great stuff.



1974 Mk2

Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
if the pin really won't go all of the way in, you could put it in a drill chuck and hone its OD with some emory paper - not too much because it is meant to be a friction fit, very snug

there's nothing special about the washer, you could take a pin to the hardware store and get what fits

Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
oops, forgot to answer your other question: steering rack oil

you didn't specify which Midget you are asking about: your '67 Morris rack takes 80/90W oil, same as your rear end, your '73 Triumph rack takes grease (different racks you can tell apart: the Morris rack uses cast aluminum mounting brackets, the Triumph rack has stamped steel ones)

To fill the '67 rack with oil, the easiest way is to use your grease gun on the zerk fitting, and give it the number of squirts in the Bentley manual. Since not all grease guns squirt the same amount, it would be a good idea to check the volume with a measuring cup first, so you know you won't overfill the rack by accident.

Or, jack up one side of the car as high as you can go and remove the outer end of the upper boot, and slooooooowly pour the oil in the rack that way (or use a syringe). When I did this on the bench I found it was necessary to cycle the rack back/forth to get the oil in, but that would be difficult with the other front wheel on the ground and the whole car leaning on it.

By the way, my rack leaked oil from the pinion, and the boots, pretty consistently, over the years (rebuilt rack), so when I had it out I refilled it with Corn Head Grease (google it). Cool stuff, seems to work fine and no leaks any more.


Norm

moebuster Avatar
moebuster Keith Montgomery
Athens, AL, USA   USA
Isn't he at the get the old pin out stage right now??



1974 Mk2

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refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
No, he's assembling the new parts and is having trouble getting the cotter pins to fit.

Brian, if I remember correctly the cotter pins are flat on one side. Make sure the flat side faces the flat on the fulcrum pin.

In reply to # 3292886 by moebuster Isn't he at the get the old pin out stage right now??

PeterC Avatar
PeterC Platinum Member Peter Caldwell
Madison Wisconsin, USA   USA
The cotter can only be installed with the kingpin at right angle to the aframe.

In reply to # 3293007 by refisk No, he's assembling the new parts and is having trouble getting the cotter pins to fit.

Brian, if I remember correctly the cotter pins are flat on one side. Make sure the flat side faces the flat on the fulcrum pin.

In reply to # 3292886 by moebuster Isn't he at the get the old pin out stage right now??


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74 midget Avatar
74 midget Tifton fowler
Hamilton, GA, USA   USA
I'm having exactly the same problem not sure what you were saying could you please be more descriptive

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PeterC Avatar
PeterC Platinum Member Peter Caldwell
Madison Wisconsin, USA   USA
In reply to # 3749127 by 74 midget I'm having exactly the same problem not sure what you were saying could you please be more descriptive

You talkin' to me? LOL The flat on the fulcrum pin will only be in the correct position when the kingpin is oriented to the a-frame as it is on the car... perpendicular.

Peter C


Member Services:
Supplying New Old Stock parts for all imports. A LARGE quantity being loaded to our EBAY store stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts Rebuilding lever shock absorbers for British cars. (800)362-1025 M-F 9-5 Central or parts@nosimport.com
74 midget Avatar
74 midget Tifton fowler
Hamilton, GA, USA   USA
Thank you Mr. Peter C I do apologize I’m not real savvy on line .I do have it orientated correctly just can’t get that other eighth of an inch out of it I’ve got half my threads on the other side and I’m really whacked on it

PeterC Avatar
PeterC Platinum Member Peter Caldwell
Madison Wisconsin, USA   USA
I've run the pin in and out a few times first. Use a 1/2" open end wrench (thin) once the flat appears in the hole. Then grease it when installing.... Don't forget the corks or rubbers. You might need to insert a drive punch and use the kingpin for leverage to get that last bit to show.


Member Services:
Supplying New Old Stock parts for all imports. A LARGE quantity being loaded to our EBAY store stores.ebay.com/worldwideimportautoparts Rebuilding lever shock absorbers for British cars. (800)362-1025 M-F 9-5 Central or parts@nosimport.com
74 midget Avatar
74 midget Tifton fowler
Hamilton, GA, USA   USA
Believe it or not Mr. C I’ve done all that four or five times even put the pin a touch on they grinding wheel just a tiny smudge .even change pins

74 midget Avatar
74 midget Tifton fowler
Hamilton, GA, USA   USA
I found the problem I started out with this.I finished up with this


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