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Hardtop winter project.

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77Midget Avatar
77Midget Y.. Lee
western, USA   USA
1977 MG Midget 1500 "Some Friend"
1998 Lincoln Mark Lt "Mark VIII"
2002 Subaru Forester "Suba Too"
2006 Honda Civic "Civic"    & more
Hello All,
Its been a while, but today I took down the hardtop that i bought many years ago and started to clean it.

A while back I found out that my top is a Snug Top. http://www.mgnuts.com/hardtops/midget/
Snug Tops were manufactured by Custom Hard Tops in Long Beach, California.

As you can see, it needs some work...

I already have replacement top clamps from a conventional soft top frame. I was looking at the alignment and i think these should work. Has anyone tried this?
  • I have decided to stay with black and a bright white inside.
  • I can get Plexiglas locally....
  • I'm looking for something to use as a rubber window seal.
  • I'm planning to use a generic rubber seal on the connecting edges.
  • I do not have rear mounts in my car. I have a half-baked idea of using hood pins (http://www.turnermotorsport.com/image/body/body_hoodpins_lg.jpg) & springs... or does anyone know where I can find the originals?
  • Does anyone know what normally covers the access holes in the lower corners?
  • I plan sand, use fiberglass specific paint semi-gloss, & clear coat

As always, your advice is welcome...










Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-12-31 01:06 PM by 77Midget.

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73midget Avatar
73midget Chris Edwards
Garland, TX, USA   USA
I restored a similar product. For the window seal, I just searched eBay for universal window to body seals, I had the old seal to compare to find a similar profile. It will be a 2 part seal, meaning a seal and a locking strip. While you are at it, order a locking strip tool.

The seals are sold usually in a precut 25' length. You need about 10' for the window. I was able to sell my extra 15' to another user for his top. It cost about $90-100 for the seal... But I made back 40 on the excess.

The access holes would have been covered with a badge. Mine was a dynaplastics top, but it's the same structural design as the snug top with almost no differences

midget73 Avatar
midget73 Dwayne M
Knoxville, TN, USA   USA
1971 Mercedes-Benz W114
1972 MG Midget MkIII "Rhett"
1996 BMW Z3 "Miss Scarlett"
Did you vulcanized the mitered corners to seal them off?

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73midget Avatar
73midget Chris Edwards
Garland, TX, USA   USA
No need to miter the corners, just work the seal around the curve.

Floydinit Avatar
Floydinit Bob Rank
Waldorf, MD, USA   USA
1972 MG Midget MkIII "Silver Ghost"
1994 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 "Blue Beast"
1995 Chevrolet Corvette "Babs Toy"
I ordered a new Snugtop for my first Midget back in the early 80's and J bolts were supplied with it to anchor in down so when I found a used Snugtop for my current car I got online and ordered a pair.
I used 1/2" heater hose that I split lengthwise to seal the back.Good luck....Bob

DwayneSpeer Avatar
DwayneSpeer Dwayne Speer
Pasco, WA, USA   USA
1978 Other Not Listed
1979 MG Midget ~ For Sale ! ~
1985 Chevrolet C10
Is there really an old singer sewing machine under there? Does it work? Want to sell it?

77Midget Avatar
77Midget Y.. Lee
western, USA   USA
1977 MG Midget 1500 "Some Friend"
1998 Lincoln Mark Lt "Mark VIII"
2002 Subaru Forester "Suba Too"
2006 Honda Civic "Civic"    & more
Thank you all for the suggestions and advice.
Please post some pictures.

Chris,
I will look for the seals and tool.
I have some MG grill badges (the smaller ones) that I was thinking of using for the holes.

Bob,
The 1/2" heater hose is a great suggestion.
What glue did you use to attach the rubber?

Dwayne,
In reply to # 3160583 by DwayneSpeer Is there really an old singer sewing machine under there? Does it work? Want to sell it?
No machine, but that is a Singer machine stand, minus the wheels, acting as a table. I will ask my wife if you are interested.


Y.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2015-12-31 01:07 PM by 77Midget.

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Floydinit Avatar
Floydinit Bob Rank
Waldorf, MD, USA   USA
1972 MG Midget MkIII "Silver Ghost"
1994 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 "Blue Beast"
1995 Chevrolet Corvette "Babs Toy"
Dwayne, no glue needed since it naturally stays closed it stays tight wherever you put it....Bob

73midget Avatar
73midget Chris Edwards
Garland, TX, USA   USA
Here's an example of the type of profile you need (pulled a random pick off google) the things to pay attention to are the width of the body channel (probably about 1/8"winking smiley and the width of the glass/plexi channel...3/16" on mine). Also note the distance between the channels because that will need to be accounted for when you cut the window out. I had the original window to copy off of, if you don't have that then measure carefully.

For the front latches, I found soft top latches didn't work for me, although I can't remember why. I bought pull latches from Pegasus racing that were the same as what was there when I bought the top. Your experience may vary

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midget73 Avatar
midget73 Dwayne M
Knoxville, TN, USA   USA
1971 Mercedes-Benz W114
1972 MG Midget MkIII "Rhett"
1996 BMW Z3 "Miss Scarlett"
The reason I ask about mitres is because my top is a factory top with square corners.


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77Midget Avatar
77Midget Y.. Lee
western, USA   USA
1977 MG Midget 1500 "Some Friend"
1998 Lincoln Mark Lt "Mark VIII"
2002 Subaru Forester "Suba Too"
2006 Honda Civic "Civic"    & more
Thank you all,
BTW I am lucky enough to have the original Plexiglas and the rear window and may be able to use the original rubber seal with some silicone as a bead.

will the 1/2" heater hose work for the front and back seals?

Do I need anything to seal the roll up windows or can I worry about that later?

Chris,
On the latches, it looks like the when you line up the holes, the front of the latch is about 1/2 inch off between the one that came with the top (Only one came with the top) and the ones for the soft top.



Y.

Floydinit Avatar
Floydinit Bob Rank
Waldorf, MD, USA   USA
1972 MG Midget MkIII "Silver Ghost"
1994 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 "Blue Beast"
1995 Chevrolet Corvette "Babs Toy"
I used the hose in the back because the back seal is glued where the front seals are riveted and hold up better with age. Also the original latches were adjustable.......Bob

James E Avatar
James E Silver Member Jimmy Campbell
Bedford, VA, USA   USA
Y, like what was said a badge fits in the holes on the sides. Its a provision for the mounting hardware to attach to the top then there are 2 more brackets that use the bottom 2 bolts of your soft top hinge. This way of attaching the hardtop to the car enables you to keep the soft top on, just put it down the way you always would then put the hardtop on. Now when you remove the hardtop and you are out driving you always have the soft top if it starts raining. I'm in need of repairing my Parrish hardtop, can't just get a piece of Lexan. $400. to repair my top, back window and seals.sad smiley



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2016-01-01 03:41 PM by James E.


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77Midget Avatar
77Midget Y.. Lee
western, USA   USA
1977 MG Midget 1500 "Some Friend"
1998 Lincoln Mark Lt "Mark VIII"
2002 Subaru Forester "Suba Too"
2006 Honda Civic "Civic"    & more
Thanks for the information James,

Good luck with your top.
Let us know how we can help...

Y.

77Midget Avatar
77Midget Y.. Lee
western, USA   USA
1977 MG Midget 1500 "Some Friend"
1998 Lincoln Mark Lt "Mark VIII"
2002 Subaru Forester "Suba Too"
2006 Honda Civic "Civic"    & more
Updates.
- Cleaned and painted the outside with Rust-Oleum Universal - All Surface Gloss Black Spray Paint and Primer in One (used one can)
- i looked at my old window seal and found that its damaged and brittle. I identified a replacement options that should work:
- Trim-Lok LK1663 is one piece (no lock piece)
- Trim-Lok LK1179 is a two piece setup
both are about 1" tall with channels for 1/8" panel & 1/4" glass. and under $35 for 25' on amazon.

I will ask the glass shop what they think...













Y.

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