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Lets rewrite Haynes on engine mount replacement

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James E Avatar
James E Silver Member Jimmy Campbell
Bedford, VA, USA   USA
For those of you who have been there, done that and have the scars, what are some of the tricks you have learned on putting the mounts back on. The the plate studs on the new ones are about 1/4 in. longer than the old ones so I'm cutting them off also cutting the single stud down some too. All that is needed is a thread or two on the outer side of the nuts. That should make it so what easier to get back in. Anything else?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2013-02-16 02:08 PM by James E.

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AmishIndy Avatar
AmishIndy Seth Jones
Glendale Heights, IL, USA   USA
1971 MG Midget MkIII "Guenevire"
2007 Mazda 3 "Porco Rosso"
never had a problem with this. I usually bolt both mounts to the engine, and unbolt one of the mount brackets from the car. I then both that mount bracket to the mount on that side and drop the engine in. haynes is hardly the difinitive manual. There have been at least 3 editions with noticeable differences in what they tell you to do. I assume you mean the most recent one with a 1500 on the cover. Anyway, the factory manual reads as follows (turns out I'd been doing it exactly this way for years before I read how to do it).

Section A.32

Engine Mountings


Removing

Support the engine assembly with suitable lifting equipment and remove both the left- and right-hand mounting rubber securing nuts and mounting rubber bracket-to-body securing set screws. Release the exhaust down pipe manifold clamp and remove the front down pipe strap from the support bracket. Lift the engine approximately 1 in. (19 mm.), ensuring that the fan assembly will not foul the radiator fan cowling. Swing the engine to the left as far as possible and remove the right-hand rubber mounting together with its body
bracket.

The left-hand front rubber mounting and bracket assembly can now be easily removed.

Refitting

When refitting, the right-hand front rubber mounting and bracket should be positioned first. Both mounting rubbers and brackets should be fitted before any set screws or nuts are replaced.



Seth Jones

1971 MG Midget

www.SpridgetGuru.com

James E Avatar
James E Silver Member Jimmy Campbell
Bedford, VA, USA   USA
Got the new mounts on. The nut that goes on the stud that goes thru the frame riser on the drivers (left) side is a real bugger to get to. Had to pull the steering shaft out of the way to get to it. At least the steering doesn't squeek any more. Next, front wheel bearings..

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AN5L8016 Avatar
AN5L8016 Mark Haynes
Nederland, CO, USA   USA
I always leave the driver's side attached loosely to the frame, and have the motor mount already attached to it, just tightly enough that I can turn it to align with the holes on to engine plate. That way I only have to tighten the drivers side after the engine is in and sitting down completely on its own.



'58 Bugeye
'05 Mini Cooper S

Shade tree mechanic Avatar
, VA, USA   USA
1976 MG Midget 1500
1976 MG Midget 1500 "PuddleJumper"
In reply to # 2290417 by AmishIndy never had a problem with this. I usually bolt both mounts to the engine, and unbolt one of the mount brackets from the car. I then both that mount bracket to the mount on that side and drop the engine in. haynes is hardly the difinitive manual. There have been at least 3 editions with noticeable differences in what they tell you to do. I assume you mean the most recent one with a 1500 on the cover. Anyway, the factory manual reads as follows (turns out I'd been doing it exactly this way for years before I read how to do it).

Section A.32

Engine Mountings


Removing

Support the engine assembly with suitable lifting equipment and remove both the left- and right-hand mounting rubber securing nuts and mounting rubber bracket-to-body securing set screws. Release the exhaust down pipe manifold clamp and remove the front down pipe strap from the support bracket. Lift the engine approximately 1 in. (19 mm.), ensuring that the fan assembly will not foul the radiator fan cowling. Swing the engine to the left as far as possible and remove the right-hand rubber mounting together with its body
bracket.

The left-hand front rubber mounting and bracket assembly can now be easily removed.

Refitting

When refitting, the right-hand front rubber mounting and bracket should be positioned first. Both mounting rubbers and brackets should be fitted before any set screws or nuts are replaced.
Seth, that is exactly how I installed mine on my '76. Except I removed the fan cowling and did not drop the
exhaust down pipe.

mimssandi Avatar
mimssandi Roger & Sandra Hobart
Mims, Fla, USA   USA
For our race cars, we take a cutoff wheel and cut a groove in the center of the plate instead of trying to put the bolt in the hole. The engine slides down to its original position much easier that way. Of course, if the nut comes loose and you turn the car over and shake it hard, the engine will try to fall out.

Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
In reply to # 2293802 by mimssandi For our race cars, we take a cutoff wheel and cut a groove in the center of the plate instead of trying to put the bolt in the hole. The engine slides down to its original position much easier that way. Of course, if the nut comes loose and you turn the car over and shake it hard, the engine will try to fall out.


Ditto, old Spridget racer's trick, it is so common among Spridget racers, you almost never see a Spridget race car without it.

Slot the two motor mount brackets, so that with your engine, you bolt the mounts to the fornt engine plate and just slip the engine with mount already attached to the engine down into the now slotted chassis mouint brackets, this makes life with the Spridget in this regard, so much easier.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


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Skeezix Avatar
Skeezix Rob Klyver
Playa Del Rey, CA, USA   USA
I know that this is an old thread but are you saying that the frame side mounts get slotted with a death wheel?
I am fighting the evil mounts with engine installed and I want to cry,



61 Midget Mk 1 GAN1L/294*

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Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
Hi Rob,

in your photo, the white part, slot that

Then you can bolt the rubber part to the engine, and then the slots in the white part will allow the whole assembly to simply slide into place.



N

littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"    & more
x2 what Norm says.

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1974MGMidget Avatar
1974MGMidget Silver Member Jack Orkin
Grayson, GA, USA   USA
Here is what I just did when I had to remove the lump to rebuild the transmission. You can see the slot I cut on the mounts. Hopefully I did it right. At least, I think I put the slot facing the right way! smiling smiley My mounts also have an additional angle iron brace that is a cause for further irritation. I have no idea what that is for, must have been some "safety" innovation.


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crossmember.jpg

littlecars Avatar
littlecars David Bassett
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
1965 Chevrolet Corvair "Ski Team Transport SOLD!"
1965 MG Midget MkII "Buffoon"
1966 MG Midget MkII "Swiss Cheese...SCRAPPED"
1970 Triumph Spitfire MkIII "Tamara's Turd... SOLD!!!"    & more
Lots of fun "safety" innovations on our 74 Midgets, Jack. Like the front bumper mounts that run all the way through the side radiator shrouds, the rod mounted to the gearbox crossmember, and of course the ignition interlock!

Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
nice slots!
Also, nice job on the notch in the front crossmember to make room for the harmonic balancer, I wish I had done that to mine!

The little welded on tabs on the '74~ engine mounts were to help make the engine & transmission mass a part of the energy absorption when the body is impacted by high energy that is not in line to include them in the first place (same purpose as the rod to the transmission).

Jack, your clutch slave cylinder is on the wrong side for a 1275! Is yours actually a 1975 model year car? (built from 11/'74~)



N

1974MGMidget Avatar
1974MGMidget Silver Member Jack Orkin
Grayson, GA, USA   USA
In reply to # 3736668 by Kerr

Jack, your clutch slave cylinder is on the wrong side for a 1275! Is yours actually a 1975 model year car? (built from 11/'74~)



N

Its on the "right" side for a 5-speed conversion!smiling smiley

Statestreet Avatar
Statestreet John Lockwood
Tucson AZ, USA   USA
I had to put the new mounts on my 74 since the ones already in were broken. I jacked up the engine, removed the pieces and installed the left and right motor mounts to the flange by the timing cover. Then I lowered the engine back down only to discover I couldn't get the bolts to align with the lower side mount holes.

After thinking it through, I jacked up the engine again, removed the right side motor mount frame attachment, attached it to the right side mount, and lowered the engine. I was able to align the hoses and bolt the mounts in.

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