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Aluminum brake calipers

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nimblemotorsports Avatar
nimblemotorsports Jack Murray
Sacramento, California, USA   USA
1971 MG 1100 "MGeo"
Has anyone replaced their stock front brake caliper with on that is aluminum?
From all my searching, I have not found anything/anyone who was done it.
There are full brake-upgrades.

From what I can tell, the Wildwood DynaPro Single Caliper appears like it will
fit.
http://www.wilwood.com/images/Caliper/images_dimensions-lg/Dynapro_Single-cm-lg.jpg

It has the same 3.25" mount, and 7/8 offset. I'm confused about the "mount height",
what it really is measuring. The stock caliper is 2.5" from the mount hole line to the end of the rotor,
but if you measure it exactly as shown, from the bolt center to where the disc is, its about 2",
so it looks like this is a bolt-on replacement???

I suppose I'll buy one and see. Otherwise, any other aluminum calipers that might work,
or be adapted to work?

Jack Murray

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JJFarkas Avatar
JJFarkas Jason Farkas
New Boston, MI, USA   USA
1974 MG Midget "Ruby"
These guys have the rear alloy calipers but I'm not sure these nice oversized front systems are or not...
http://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/specialistProducts.htm#3.2

200mph Avatar
200mph Platinum Member Mike Joy
Winston-Salem, NC, USA   USA
Jack, Take a look over in the motorsports forum and contact one of the folks there who is racing a Spridget. Chances are they are using Wilwood and can tell you which part number, and whether they need a special bracket or adapter.

Please post the relevant info here. Thanks.

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Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
also, there are tons of parts like that marketed for minis (check over at minimania.com (in the US), or minispares.com (in the UK). The calipers and rotors are the same (8.4", that is).

Not sure you'll see any actual performance benefit, but very pretty bling.


Norm

200mph Avatar
200mph Platinum Member Mike Joy
Winston-Salem, NC, USA   USA
Here's a link to one such conversion:

http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BrianKraus.htm

nimblemotorsports Avatar
nimblemotorsports Jack Murray
Sacramento, California, USA   USA
1971 MG 1100 "MGeo"
I've read that the Minis share a lot of parts, I'll see what I can find for them..
http://www.minimania.com/web/item/C-AJJ4022/invDetail.cfm
These looks like bolt-ons. But look at the price, $900.

I'm looking to reduce the weight, so in fact don't want the bigger 4-piston setup.
The stock calipers are about 8lbs, and the single piston Wilwood's are 1.5lbs,
so a significant wt savings, and its unsprung weight.
I ordered a pair of the 120-10188 Wilwood DynaPro units (for $180 pair),
we'll see if they fit..or I can make them fit!
Apparantly these units are common on sprint cars.
I'm surprised that I'd be the first to try them.

Jack


In reply to a post by Kerr also, there are tons of parts like that marketed for minis (check over at minimania.com (in the US), or minispares.com (in the UK). The calipers and rotors are the same (8.4", that is).

Not sure you'll see any actual performance benefit, but very pretty bling.


Norm

nimblemotorsports Avatar
nimblemotorsports Jack Murray
Sacramento, California, USA   USA
1971 MG 1100 "MGeo"
The good news, is these Wilwood calipers will fit on the MG:



The bad news is it requires modifications. The "mount height" I was worried about was an issue.
To solve it, the disc rotor had to be turned down by approximately 1/4in.
The hub needed a little clearancing.
The MG spindle caliper mounting bosses had to be shaved by about 3/16in.
The Wilwood caliper bolt holes had to be enlarged to 7/16 to match the MG mounting bosses.

It wasn't easy, but they do fit now, and have reduced the unsprung weight by about 8-lbs per wheel. cool smiley


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JJFarkas Avatar
JJFarkas Jason Farkas
New Boston, MI, USA   USA
1974 MG Midget "Ruby"
Cut back on smileys with beer and you'll save even more weight!!!

I just talked with a buddy of mine who races his Subaru and I was telling him about some issues that I feel could be improved and one of them has always been the braking of these cars. I really wish I could get better stopping power. I get nervous that I have to press the petal all the way to the floor to get to a complete stop. Again, this may be the "norm" but I've only been around these ars for a few years. Aside from getting a dual master cylinders and servo kits, is there a way to use maybe a modern 9-10" disk with modern calibers and brake pads (since they are bigger)?

mjamgb Avatar
mjamgb michael anderson
Carson City, NORTHERN NEVADA, USA   USA
Good news, I always wondered, too. Bit more of a fiddle than I hoped, however.

Good luck finding disks to fit these hubs without going full custom (that $900 MiniMania figure from above, eh?).

Run air to those calipers, especially if you are doing "spirited" driving. Part of the cast iron's charm is that it absorbed heat from the system, keeping the fluid from boiling. Aluminum will not act as such a great mass to absorb heat, which is good if you have air flow to take the heat from the calipers since it transmits heat better than cast iron.

Six of one and half a dozen of the other, just a different mechanism to the same end.

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Bill Young Avatar
Kansas City, MO, USA   USA
1952 MG TD
1959 MG MGA 1500
1973 Lotus Europa
1973 MG Midget "Half Asp Or Frank"    & more
Jason, the main problem when fitting larger discs is the clearance for the tie rod. The most common brake improvement is what is known as the "Big Brake Kit" and consists of Triumph Spitfire rotors (9"winking smiley, aluminum hub adaptors and MGB calipers. The steering arms have to be spaced in about 3/4" and the tie rods shorted a like amount to get the toe adjustment. The downside is that you do knock the ackerman alignment out a bit so you get some tire scrub when cornering, the up side is a bit better braking. There's just not much of a way to cram larger brakes inside the 13" wheels. I find for street use the stock rotors along with a good quality pad such as EBC Green Stuff will do quite well. Repeated use of the brakes such as when racing will result in some fade and overheating, but you really have to be pushing the car to get that and adding some cooling ducts helps that a lot.
Jack's solution is what he wanted to reduce weight, but he has also reduced the efficiency of his brakes by reducing the diameter. You want the largest diameter disc you can get as they give more leverage and more swept friction area than the small discs.



Bill Young
'73 Midget
'59 MGA

There is a fine line between a 'hobby' and 'mental illness'.

Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
In reply to a post by 200mph Jack, Take a look over in the motorsports forum and contact one of the folks there who is racing a Spridget. Chances are they are using Wilwood and can tell you which part number, and whether they need a special bracket or adapter.

Please post the relevant info here. Thanks.

Mike, actually, none of the racing groups allow such a thing, maybe a Spridget running in the GTL in SCCA, but the production class Spridgets have to run the Spitfire rotor/MGB caliper big brake deal. Peter May offers a Willwood set up, I guess they get to run that set in racing over there in the UK.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


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1976Midget Josh Rebecca
Pascagoula, USA   USA
In reply to a post by JJFarkas I get nervous that I have to press the petal all the way to the floor to get to a complete stop. Again, this may be the "norm" but I've only been around these ars for a few years.

either i got a weak leg or sounds like you got air in your system there. I gotta mash on the pedal in my midget to get it to stop but it dont go anywhere near the floor. grinning smiley The Brembo 4 pistons that came on my Sentra will make the passengers eat dash if they aint paying attention and i stab on the brakes smiling bouncing smiley

Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
Big brake kits are cool, but a well working stock set up can do almost any street task thrown at it. In SCCA H prodcution class for many years we were only allow stock calipers and rotors, yeah we ducted them for cooling and used special race only brake pads, but that system would stay under you for the entire race, braking down from 125 mph several times a lap. Bottom line, if you do this, you do this for the bling factor a street drven Midget brake system in good shape work great for even sprited driving.

Jason, modern cars have power assisted brakes, in a old car your leg is the power assist smiling smiley



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


Member Services:
MG/ Triumph Performance Street/Race Engines - Cylinder Head Porting - Modified SU HS Carbs - DIY Engine Rebuild Kits With Free Tech Advice - VTO alloy wheels for British Sport Cars, and others
hpmowog Avatar
hpmowog Karl Keiger
In reply to a post by Speedracer Big brake kits are cool, but a well working stock set up can do almost any street task thrown at it. In SCCA H prodcution class for many years we were only allow stock calipers and rotors, yeah we ducted them for cooling and used special race only brake pads, but that system would stay under you for the entire race, braking down from 125 mph several times a lap. Bottom line, if you do this, you do this for the bling factor a street drven Midget brake system in good shape work great for even sprited driving.

Jason, modern cars have power assisted brakes, in a old car your leg is the power assist smiling smiley

I agree. With an H-Prod Spridget with stock size discs and stock calipers, you have more than enough braking power to lock up the brakes at any time and overcome the traction of the tires on pavement. This is running on 8" wide sticky slicks which have much higher adhesion than skinny street tires.

walshja Avatar
walshja Joe W
new haven, CT, USA   USA
what does unsprung weight mean?

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