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front hub (and rear) identification MGA or MGB

Moss Motors
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Jaap98 Jaap Meijer
Bridel, Luxembourg, Luxembourg   LUX
Hi All,

I have 58 MGA which, I was told but the previous owner, adopted most parts from an MGB.
Apparently engine, gearbox (w overdrive), the banjo rear axle (WW) drums and fron axle w disks.

I have two issues to sort out but the respective part numbers at MOSS europe and Limora are not the same for the part on the MGA and MGB. Any idea how I can identify correctly so I can order the correct parts?

ISSUE 1: front bearings (both sides) have play (according to MOT fail). This might be a shim issue or I just change inner and outer bearings while I am at at...

ISSUE 2: I have an oil drip (recurring issue) on the drum brake on one side rear.
I have replaced bearings and seal (twice), but I still have a small leak causing the brakes to be useless.
I have also installed a speedysleeve. (made a big difference)
Not quite sure what to do here, maybe the shaft is damaged or the hub but I don't have equipment to check.
Tempted to change both. Here the leak seems to be coming from the inner side behind the drums but am keen for this to be the last time I do this.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

thanks

Jaap

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Twofin Avatar
Twofin David T
Bedworth, Warwickshire, UK   GBR
Remove the wheel bearings, get the numbers off them and go local bearing shop for them, or remove them , check for wear , if they are reasonable, repack with grease and refit them, they are tapered rollers so any free play can be removed by adjustment,
Rear axle I’m not too hot on those but isn’t there a drain hole on there somewhere, so contamination doesn’t happen? Or is that mga only. Chime in guys, I’m sure I’ve read it on the site somewhere?

Jaap98 Jaap Meijer
Bridel, Luxembourg, Luxembourg   LUX
Thanks David.

I will have a look at the front ones first,as I understand the play is adjusted by using shims so I will have to get those first. If successful, I will get the number as you suggest and go from there. Very useful tip, thank you!

The back is a nagging issue. The vent on the axle is clear so no pressure issue.

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ghnl Avatar
ghnl Silver Member Eric Russell
Mebane, NC, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
At the front, MGA hub's use ball bearings that are not 'adjustable'. MGB hubs use tapered roller bearings that require shims to adjust their free play (unless you want to do it the American way...). Without disassembling anything the quickest way to identify which hub you have is to look at the kingpins. I believe MGB hubs will not fit on MGA stub axles so the entire front suspension would have to be swapped (easily done).

MGA suspension:

MGB suspension:


The most obvious difference is the large nut on the top of the MGB kingpin - the MGA has a closed end swivel link (no large nut).

For the rear axle, if the seal surface on the axle is worn a new seal will leak soon after installation. The fix is to install a Speedi Sleeve to repair the surface where the seal rides.

Are you sure it is leaking gear oil and not brake fluid? Gear oil has a very distinctive odor and thus usually easy to differentiate.

For almost anything knowable about the MGA, check the MGA Guru's Tech Pages: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/index.htm

Specifically: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/suspensn/susp1.htm & http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/rearaxle/ra1.htm



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

Jaap98 Jaap Meijer
Bridel, Luxembourg, Luxembourg   LUX
Thanks Eric,

that really helps. Pretty sure i have the MGB kingpin so will get the shims and bearings.
Not sure how I will measure / judge the 4 thou movement without a gauge..may have to get to a garage after all but hope to avoid tha.

As for the axle, I have used the speedisleeve last year. The leak is much reduced but still there.
I have now found out about the drain channel (drainage Channel post) on the inside of the brakes and gave it a poke (the vent on the axle is clear.
I did a temporary fix today; just new gasket, this time without compount, just dry .

Will order new gaskets etc before disassembling all again and making sure the drain channel really is clear.
(not replacing the shoes yet - pretty sure nothing is fixed yet..confused smiley)

thanks

Jaap


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ghnl Avatar
ghnl Silver Member Eric Russell
Mebane, NC, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
You may not need any fancy measuring tools to set the bearing end play. I've done them both ways and think the 'by feel' method is faster and just as good.

You first assemble the hub with no shims and tighten it down to make sure the bearings are seated. Then add shims until you get free motion (spins easily) without feeling excessive play. It is almost easier to do than to explain!

There are some who do this the "American" way - so called because many (most?) American cars of similar design do not use shims but instead have you tighten the hub nut until the bearings are snug (motion restricted) then back off a small amount and secure the nut with its cotter pin. In theory the shim method should result in a stronger axle assembly - once tightened down the shims + inner bearing races are supposed to add some strength to the assembly. But those that use the shimless method point out that American cars do not suffer from broken axles despite being a much heavier vehicle. (I use shims...)



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA
To tighten the bearings you remove one (thinnest) shim at a time. The shim is behind the outer bearing on top of the spacer.



Gary



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-04-14 12:23 PM by Gary E.

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Jaap98 Jaap Meijer
Bridel, Luxembourg, Luxembourg   LUX
Eric and Gary,

this is excellent news. Gives me the confidence to get on with it!!
Very helpful.

ghnl Avatar
ghnl Silver Member Eric Russell
Mebane, NC, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
For the initial set up of the front hub shims, oil the bearings (instead of packing them full of grease). This makes it easier to feel the end play as you try different combinations of shims - and a lot less messy as you R/R the outer bearing to access the shims. Once you get the shim combination right don't forget to wash out the oil and properly pack the bearings with grease.



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

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Jaap98 Jaap Meijer
Bridel, Luxembourg, Luxembourg   LUX
I took the front apart but there were no shims (or I could not see them.)
I will now wait for the replacement bearings and shims to arrive; replace the lot and hope that solves the play issue. Thank you All!

barneymg Avatar
barneymg Barney Gaylord
(Somewhere in USA), Pick one (or more), USA   USA
1958 MG MGA "MGA With An Attitude"
Are the inner race spacers still there?



Barney Gaylord - 1958 MGA with an attitude - http://MGAguru.com - barneymg@mgaguru.com

Jaap98 Jaap Meijer
Bridel, Luxembourg, Luxembourg   LUX
Hi Barney,

I am sorry, I am not sure what they are. The axle is from an MGB.
The items I seem to have missing are numbered 72 in the attached picture. (and 77 but not sure that matters.)
Despite this I have a bit of play and therefor failing my MOT (Control Technique in Luxembourg). (plus the rear axle issue).

As I thought removing the shims (numbered 72) would remove play, I assume the bearing need replacing.
I have ordered now bearings and shims and hope to have them by the end of the week.

Perhaps you have another idea what might be the cause? (both sides have this issue).

Many thanks

Jaap


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ghnl Avatar
ghnl Silver Member Eric Russell
Mebane, NC, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
Barney was asking if the bearing spacer - #71 - is present. It fills the space between the inner & outer bearings.



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

Jaap98 Jaap Meijer
Bridel, Luxembourg, Luxembourg   LUX
Thanks Eric, did not know what it was called.

Yes it is there.only shim(s) #72 missing.

Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA
You need 77 or the later type to keep the grease from seeping out on your wire wheels.



Gary

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