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Gary E Avatar
Gary E Silver Member Gary Edwards
Kernersville, ,N.C., USA   USA

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tomstorey Tom Storey M
Chardon, OH, USA   USA
was wondering if anyone had a source for good engine gaskets...like oil pan, head, inspection covers, etc.

thanks

Blueosprey90 Avatar
Blueosprey90 Jeff Sienkiewicz
New Milford, CT, USA   USA
Dave Headly's, Hap Waldrop's and Dick Moritz's Tips for Rod Cap Removal

Pauter rods: here's a picture of my #4 rod cap - ignore the broken crankshaft



And a picture of the Pauter rods. Note the caps. Ignore the bent rod on the left.




Dave and Hap's tip for removing this type of end cap.

Dave: " ... separating the rod caps from these and others is done by backing off the bolts about 1/8" to 3/16", then tapping on the bolt heads to push the rod away from the cap. This procedure from Pauter as well as others. It works well."

Hap: "Yep, that's how I do it as well, daddy used to say , "son use your brain, not your ass", LOL. I also use a plastic dead blow hammer, so I don't mar those expensive bolt heads, but it does not take a lot of effort to separate them this way. These are the little tricks guys like Dave and I learn over the years to make our life easier, but sometime forget to share because it is second nature to us. I also do the same thing when resizing rods on the bench, MGB 18V rods are especially hard to separate doing it any other way. The more you wrench, the more you discover little tips like this, most often, this sort of stuff is self taught."


Dick's tip for removing stock MGA rod caps"

Dick: "And when removing the rod caps from connecting rods that use captive bolts and nuts, best to back the nuts off to where they're just flush with the end of the threaded bolt. While you should take great care to tap gently with a soft-faced hammer, backing the nut off until it's flush with the end of the bolt provides a little more insurance against damaging the threaded end of the bolt...

Also, when installing or removing connecting rods with captive bolts, best to use purpose-build "bolt guards" or pieces of rubber fuel line over the threaded portion of the bolts so that the threads don't nick the crankshaft journal on the way in or out... "

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ghnl Avatar
ghnl Silver Member Eric Russell
Mebane, NC, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
In reply to # 3622891 by tomstorey I was wondering if there was a "be all to end all"...primer on engine crankshaft fit up?

including the proper way to install the thrust washers...(there are multiple references that are 180 degrees from each other on the proper installation position)...

Re: thrust washers - here's what BMC said: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg416.pdf
and what the MGA Guru says:
Quote: The face with white metal and slots goes against the rotating flange of the crankshaft, while the flat steel face of the thrust washer goes against the stationary face of the block and cap. The MGA workshop Manual had an error in the instruction here that was supposed to be corrected in a later edition (but maybe was never fixed).

Re: crank shaft fit up - Plastigage is easy to use to confirm proper bearing clearance. I also install and torque one bearing cap (main bearing and rod bearings) at a time. Then rotate the crank shaft after each cap is installed. If it is suddenly much more difficult to turn - stop and investigate. (note that installing the rod caps also means the piston & rings have been added and this will add a significant amount of drag so take that into account)



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

tomstorey Tom Storey M
Chardon, OH, USA   USA
thanks...this is a relief

Zur Avatar
Zur Dave H.
Amarillo, TX, USA   USA
10 TRICKS TO REMOVE THAT STUCK, SEIZED, OR STRIPPED BOLT/NUT

I know many of you could have written this article, but many of us can learn much from it!

Eastwood Tips



Dave
"WTF?"

3066james Avatar
3066james Gold Member Jim Cheatham
Amelia, VA, USA   USA
When I was just about finished with the restoration of my coupe, I put the steering wheel center cap on using the 4 metal clips to secure it in the hole. I then realized that I had forgotten to tighten the nut that holds the steering wheel on. Needless to say, when I pried the center cap out, I chipped the edge of it. sad smiley

When I bought a new center piece, I decided to put it in without using the clips. That worked most of the time but when I went over a bump, it would fall into my lap. To keep it in place but still not use the clips, I put some black electrical tape on the inside edge of the hole that the center piece goes into. Now it stays in place but is very easy to remove.

Jim

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Blueosprey90 Avatar
Blueosprey90 Jeff Sienkiewicz
New Milford, CT, USA   USA
Quote: I put some black electrical tape on the inside edge of the hole that the center piece goes into. Now it stays in place but is very easy to remove.

I use about 5 dabs of caulking compound, but it does come loose under race conditions on really hot days. smileys with beer

Redhawk1689 Avatar
Redhawk1689 Gold Member Steven Stockham
Salina, KS, USA   USA
1958 MG MGA 1500 "Belle"
I used a flat razor blade to get under my cap to keep it from chipping.

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tomstorey Tom Storey M
Chardon, OH, USA   USA
what a dope i am

does anyone have a spare oil scraper ring for a piston for a MGA that is .020 over bored?

thanks for checking

tom

Ex Pat Avatar
Ex Pat Anthony Boothman
Barrie, ON, Canada   CAN
Have some very good std rings you can have if it helps.

Blueosprey90 Avatar
Blueosprey90 Jeff Sienkiewicz
New Milford, CT, USA   USA
Making shims:

To make some shims for the steering rack, I used two step drills. (See photo below) These don’t seem to tear the shim stock and make for a nice clean cut. I started with the larger center hole, getting the hole started with something like a ¼” drill bit, then expanded with the large step drill. Once this was done, I laid the existing shim and marked the location of the two bolt holes. I again started the hole with the small drill bit, but then moved to the thin step drill of the final sizing. Once all holes were formed, I scribed the outside edge and cut with shear. Then dressed the edge with a small sanding drum on a Dremmel tool. The photo shows an abandoned shim, but the new ones came out perfectly!


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Zur Avatar
Zur Dave H.
Amarillo, TX, USA   USA
Thanks, Jeff...what a good idea!
See any reason why that would not also work with gasket material?



Dave
"WTF?"

ghnl Avatar
ghnl Silver Member Eric Russell
Mebane, NC, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
In reply to # 3703464 by Zur See any reason why that would not also work with gasket material?

It will. To get the best result, clamp the gasket material between 2 pieces of thin plywood - prevents the gasket material from tearing.



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100

Blueosprey90 Avatar
Blueosprey90 Jeff Sienkiewicz
New Milford, CT, USA   USA
DIY Head Porting:

Not at the head to exhaust manifold interface as shown on many YouTube videos! But in the bowls behind the valves! This old and hard to find article is must reading.

https://classicmotorsports.com/forum/grm/from-the-grm-vault-diy-head-p/121424/page1/

This is also an interesting item. http://www.diyporting.com/thread.html

Barney also has on his site the MGA Factory "Special Tuning Manual" which includes a somewhat less understandable section on porting the head, but it does have target measurements. Note: if you have a later 15 head, it may have been ported to Stage 1 at the factory.

Picture of porting job by Hap (Speedracer). The bowls that you want to be opening are in the far distance of the photos (underneath the valve heads). First photo is intkes, second is exhaust. The exhaust photo does not have the valve guide installed and you can see how much of the exhaust hump has been removed.


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