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Pulling Engine and Transmission

Moss Motors
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Ray in PA Avatar
Ray in PA Raymond Franks
Drums, PA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The Golden Chariot"
1992 Jeep Cherokee "Silver Fox"
2004 Subaru Outback "Subie"
We're about to pull the engine and tranny out of a '69 B roadster, and I have a few questions. I'm viewing Youtube videos, and one thing that I've noticed is that some folks use the two valve-cover studs as lifting points, while others will attach the lifting eyes to other bolts on the block. The valve-cover bolts seem obvious, as they would offer ease of attachment, and ability to balance the load. My question is, are they strong enough to safely support the load? Neither the engine nor the transmission are light, and those bolts, to my eye, just don't seem beefy enough to do the job.

Anyone have any advice or war stories they'd care to share? Thanks...

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Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
As long as the sideway forces are not too great these two valvecover bolts are strong enough, even when the gearbox comes out in the same moment. Still, some people, MG expert Porter included prefer shackles and ropes around the engine block

Using some kind of load leveller between your hoisting device and engine+gearbox surely helps preventing too high forces. The angle when lifting is quite steep so take care. BUT: the original factory procedure used this method as well, albeit with special lifting brackets, wich can still be ordered, e.g. with MOSS. Personally I used these bolts twice without the hooks for just lifting the engine out, but with the valve cover removed and with a makeshift leveller in place, but I also bought the hooks for a future engine out job...

PS Not being at home prevents me from repeating my picture, but many MGE members have other ones at their disposal



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-06-13 02:37 PM by Donthuis.

tbarker7815 Avatar
tbarker7815 Tom .
Knoxville, TN, USA   USA

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mooser01 Avatar
mooser01 Silver Member George C
Big Sky Country, MT, USA   USA
Ray,
I use the front and rear cylinder head studs.
The factory used the valve cover studs, but I, like you prefer something more substantial.
George

Ray in PA Avatar
Ray in PA Raymond Franks
Drums, PA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The Golden Chariot"
1992 Jeep Cherokee "Silver Fox"
2004 Subaru Outback "Subie"
In reply to # 3754868 by mooser01 Ray,
I use the front and rear cylinder head studs.
The factory used the valve cover studs, but I, like you prefer something more substantial.
George

I did think about using the front and rear head bolts, as I'm going to pull the head off anyway, to have a peek inside. Would it be best to loosen the nuts in the recommended fashion, as the manual suggests for head removal, or would it be OK to just loosen the two end ones to pull the engine? Supposedly the engine has only about 5k miles since a rebuild, but I'd like to freshen up all the gaskets anyway.

A fresh engine and O/D transmission. Hope they are what we think they are....

Ahmed Avatar
Ahmed Silver Member Ahmed EL Abasiry
Chestermere, AB, Canada   CAN
1958 MG MGA
1972 MG MGB
1979 MG MGB
Yes, they are plenty strong if you use a bracket like what Gerry showed in this post:
https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,3647334,3647404#msg-3647404

First time I took out my engine/gearbox, I didn't use a bracket and ended up bending one of the studs. When I re-installed the lot back in, I used a bracket and all is good.
Takes 20-30 mins to make out of a piece of angle iron.

By the way, the factory used the same method to install it (I think!, the photo doesn't look like a factory assembly line.)





"... the motor car, after woman, is the most fragile and capricious thing on earth." - London Daily Mail 1908



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2018-06-13 10:15 AM by Ahmed.

tvrgeek Avatar
tvrgeek Silver Member Scott S
Hillsborough, North Carolinia, USA   USA
1965 MG MGB
MUST use a bracket spreader on the valve cover bolts to be sure you are only pulling up, not to the center. You can make one out of 2 inch angle iron pretty easy as I have done, but it still scares me. I get scared lifting a SBF from the carb studs with the normal plate too.



Cogito ergo sum periculoso

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lewisrn Avatar
lewisrn Gold Member Bob L
Danville, IN, USA   USA
1980 MG MGB "The "B"
Here's a link to a checklist that you may find useful:

https://www.mgexp.com/article/transmission-removal-checklist.html#utm_source=alias&utm_medium=mgexperience.net



In any debate, the side which strays from civil discussion is usually the side that lacks confidence in its debate position or in its ability to win the debate on the merit of their arguments. Making personal attacks on the opponents instead of staying on the subject is also a sign of weakness.

Anyone who always feels compelled to respond in kind to any perceived slight is often suffering from narcissism.

Ray in PA Avatar
Ray in PA Raymond Franks
Drums, PA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The Golden Chariot"
1992 Jeep Cherokee "Silver Fox"
2004 Subaru Outback "Subie"
Well, I spent some coin on the bigger hoist at HF, and also got the spreader/balancer. It'll give me options...
Thanks to everyone who has taken interest in my questions!

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Attachments:
Engine lift.jpg    53.2 KB
Engine lift.jpg

rrmgb Avatar
rrmgb Silver Member robert schau
Reston, VA., USA   USA
1973 MG MGB
1973 MG MGB
Nice set up!
Raise the rear end up to make extraction easier.
Easy peasey with a lift!



"It is a mistake to try to look too far ahead. The chain of destiny can only be grasped one link at a time."
Sir Winston Churchill
---------------------------------------------------------------
"It all starts in your mind's eye, then it goes to your heart
and finally to your very soul."
G.S.George PHD

dohc281 Avatar
dohc281 Gold Member Ira Eckstein
Laurel Springs, NJ, USA   USA
I’ve used the valve cover studs and also have used an exhaust manifold stud in the rear and a bolt on the passenger side front where the generator mounts. Either way works good. As said earlier raising the rear end up helps too.



If you hit your pony over the nose at the outset of your acquaintance, he may not love you, but he will take a deep interest in your movements ever afterwards.



Rudyard Kipling

Soling2003 Avatar
Soling2003 Gary M
Pahoa, HI, USA   USA
I have done it both ways, valve cover bolts and opposite head bolts. Always used a leveler though. Makes it so much easier. Even by yourself, it is a pretty easy job. As someone stated though, jack up the rear a bit to make it so that the angle isnb’t Quite so severe coming out. Take it slow and easy and you should be fine.

lgorg Avatar
lgorg Larry Gorg
Renton, WA, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB "Robbie"
Ray,
I've use the lift and spreader you show in post #9 with the valve cover studs. I also cheated a bit. A neighbor allowed me to use his two metal ramps to put under the rear wheels. With the rear up high, it was not a problem removing both the engine and transmission. I will be using the same technique when I put the new engine and OD transmission in a couple of weeks.

Ray in PA Avatar
Ray in PA Raymond Franks
Drums, PA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The Golden Chariot"
1992 Jeep Cherokee "Silver Fox"
2004 Subaru Outback "Subie"
We've already cut a great deal out of the front of the body. There is no suspension, the cross member is out,and the car is on jack stands. The engine/tranny needs to come forward just enough, and we'll set it on the floor.
In theory, of course. When that fails, we should be able to lift the engine just a little to clear the pan.
Should be a fun day. And, I got an excuse to get an engine hoist. Next, maybe an engine stand. My birthday is coming....

robmgb74 Avatar
robmgb74 Robert D
Maitland, FL, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB
Isnt the engine in the front?

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