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Questions on my new (but un-installed) Delco Alternator / SOLVED & Installed

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Nicecar Avatar
Nicecar Gary (ex "Harv") G
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
1980 MG MGB "Red On Red On Red"
The Alternator Shop in Victoria, who I had used in past for simpler things, told me he was experienced in the swap- over. I'm seeing he wasn't.

1) Please confirm this is the correct Delco ("PL"winking smiley wire that will go to my brown/white.
(Pic #1).

2) Should I add some dialectic to plug's single wire? (The two browns go to bolt on Alt.).

3) Now, the plug is at very bottom; will be a pain to remove. Can I remove the 3 connecting case bolts and rotate case 120 degrees, placing plug in a more accessible
position? (Pic #2).

4) Alt. shop owner suggested instead of cutting off old Lucas plug, just splicing in new wires for Delco. This would leave old plug intact in case Delco failed, and easily swapped back to Lucas. - Does anybody do this? (BTW: He had a pulley, so my Lucas is intact with pulley still on).

In Alt. shop (MG at home), (NOT REALIZING THE FOLLOWING NOT NEEDED for Alt. pulley alignment), a spacer was added. (Pic #3), which led to bolt not on shaft fully. (Pic #4).
5). Should I have him remove spacer? If not necessary (and above Q's solved), I can install Alt. today instead of Monday.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-04-17 02:50 AM by Nicecar.

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Plug PL Mark.jpg    44.4 KB
Plug PL Mark.jpg

Rotate Case 120 degrees.JPG    51.3 KB
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Pulley Spacer.JPG    27.6 KB
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Shaft bolt end.JPG    32.3 KB
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course2kid Jeffrey Johnson
Fountain Valley, CA, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB "Lucy (Lucifer)"
I can't answer 1 or 3.

As for #2, where exactly were you thinking of putting the dielectric grease? On the terminals of the harness plug that connects to the new alternator? I think a wee bit would be OK there just to prevent corrosion and make it easy to plug/unplug the connector. If you're talking about the wire ends of this alternator harness, then I'd say no. I would recommend hooking and twisting together the stripped ends of the car harness and alternator harness wires, soldering them, cleaning off any solder flux, and using a marine type heat shrink over the solder joint. The hooking and twisting makes for a strong mechanical connection between the wires, the soldering makes a low electrical resistance between them, and the marine heat shrink tube seals the joint to prevent corrosion while also insulating it electrically.

As to #4, as long as you have enough length on the alternator harness, then, yes, I would cut the car harness connector off with enough wire left to allow it to be reconnected to the car harness wires in case you ever go back to a Lucas alternator with that plug style. Of course, this isn't too big of a deal.

Regarding #5, yes, I'd remove that pulley spacer so that you have more threads engaged on the retainer nut, but, I'd also check to make sure I csn adjust the fore/aft position on the alternator enough to get the alternator pulley aligned with the drive pulley before I made a decision.

RAY 67 TOURER Avatar
RAY 67 TOURER Ray Marloff
Fort Bragg, CA, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB "My Girl"
Yes, you can "clock" the alternator, but you may lose the contact brushes in the process if you aren't very careful. The only tool, needed to put them back into the voltage regulator, is a paperclip that's been straightened out You insert it, from the rear of the alternator, while inserting the brushes one at a time. I don't like the way the shaft nut and pulley are sitting and would like to see how they fit on the old alternator. Dielectric grease is always a good idea. RAY

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Nicecar Avatar
Nicecar Gary (ex "Harv") G
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
1980 MG MGB "Red On Red On Red"
Jeffrey:
RE: #2: "On the terminals of the harness plug that connects to the new alternator? I think a wee bit would be OK there just to prevent corrosion"
That answers that.

#4: "I would cut the car harness connector off with enough wire left to allow it to be reconnected to the car harness wires"..
That is obvious to me - was wondering if anyone kept OE connector on too, for the simplest of a swap-over.

#5: "I'd remove that pulley spacer so that you have more threads engaged on the retainer nut, but, I'd also check to make sure I can adjust the fore/aft position"..
This is what's is pissing me off about this guy who say's he's done it before. Had I had my car there, I could have seen that I could adjust fore/aft position of Alt. with washers on attaching bolts, not this spacer on Alt..

Ray: RE #3 "clocking" (new term for me). Pissed too that "Experienced in MG's" shop owner didn't mention or set this up correctly. Glad I asked, before I break it. I'll have him do this & remove shaft washer too.

I haven't mentioned shop name. But, when I called a different shop to ask advice, I was told that this owner had dealt dishonestly with that shop in past. I still bought from him (I had done some small OK business with him for some years), but now feeling a bit unhappy about current situation, that thankfully MGE, (and these two answers) are invaluable.

sandglowB Avatar
sandglowB Silver Member Al Blosser
Uniontown, OH, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
This conversion was one of the easiest jobs to do to your B. Don't worry about the Lucas plug, if your alternator ever goes bad all you do is replace it with a Delco like you already have. Look in the library here for articles about this conversion, all the info you will need.



member - Emerald Necklace MG Register,
NAMGBR since 1991
infantry RVN 1969

late 64 Terry O
Milton, Ont, Canada   CAN
after seeing this hack job i would using a different shop........... the alt pulley is not good that way it is....... remove spacer as there need to be more thread on that nut...... use loctite as well so it will not come easily eye rolling smiley

ohlord Avatar
ohlord Gold Member Rob C
North of Seattle, N.W., USA   USA
1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2"
You dont need to clock it.
The plug gets plugged in and stays in.



"I'm a long way gone down this wild road I'm on
It's gonna take me where I'm bound
It's a long way around"



"These are the days that must happen to you"

RD2 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
Vietnam 1969-1972

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Nicecar Avatar
Nicecar Gary (ex "Harv") G
Victoria, BC, Canada   CAN
1980 MG MGB "Red On Red On Red"
You cannot clock; plug will remain at bottom.
I didn't need to change my belt, so my spare is still good.
I now have a working spare Alt. with its pulley on.
I did cut Lukas plug off.

Now I can run my "REAL EXTRAS" at the same time.
a) Heated coffee cup. (Using 9v instead of 12).
b) Seat massager (Dr. Scholl's).
c) My Sony 8mm Digital 120v AC. Now I can play the many tapes I spent hours recording. (along with small CD player & my minidisk.) At home I seldom listen to my recording, preferring to listen to radio or Internet "Folk Alley".

b & c are running 120v AC, off my 400 W inverter.

Battery is good, but will this make starting easier? When does Alt. kick in?

So what else might I add?

As only one of four plug wires were used (two big browns go to exposed case bolt - which seems crazy to me); can any of those 3 wires be used for anything else?
(I do already have a TINY LED volt-meter (4x smaller than Cig. lighter insert).


Now mad with power!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-04-17 03:09 AM by Nicecar.

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