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what happens if I over fill the resevoirs on my su's?

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Andrys Posthuma Avatar
Delft, Z-H, Netherlands   NLD
1935 MG N-Type Magnette
1969 Jaguar E-Type 2+2 "The E"
1976 MG MGB GT "The B"
In reply to # 3695870 by rproietti Starter would not engage. Shop said it was in the electronic distributer.

Run Forest, run!

For 17 years I owned and drove my MGB now. It has been a pleasure! (well... most of the time anyway smiling smiley )

Do not change to a Weber, rather have the SUs set up by a shop who knows British cars. Or even better, learn yourself!

Find another shop, really! From the Member Map, there are at least six members in your area. They should be able to point you in the right direction if you ask them.

Good luck, Andrys

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dawvid Avatar
dawvid Silver Member David B
Sharon, MA, USA   USA
In reply to # 3695870 by rproietti Starter would not engage. Shop said it was in the electronic distributer. Replaced that with the original points dist and a kit to change it into an electronic dist. When the wanted $600 to rebuild carbs I had the towed home. Now I'm thinking of an alternative carburation set up. Weber?

Robert,

Pay heed to what others are saying about this shop and don't have them touch you MG again.

It sounds like they changed your distributor to one with points? If so, then they may have put the wrong distributor, put a bad one in, put in a bad electronic conversion,or not set the timing correctly.

I'm assuming that it never ran correctly once you got the car back.


David



74 Damask Red BGT
Davesmg@outlook.com

Fogliner Avatar
Fogliner Mark Vanherd
Port Clements, BC, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB
Rick

These cars are not complicated at all. However the level of expertise in the average shop these days amounts to "throw parts at it until its fixed and charge the customer for every thing you can".

The lady I bought mine from gave me all her receipts for the work she had done to it, it was like reading a horror story on shop ineptitude. Over 4000.00 in parts and labour including a "New" engine and all it was was worn HIF carbs.

You should educate yourself by reading posts here and doing searches for threads on subjects you want to learn about so you are informed before you throw yourself at the mercy of a mechanic who doesn't know anything about these cars.

There are youtube channels by Moss motors and university motors that cover most of the things that go wrong so all you need to do is use the resource.

Take it from the beginning and tell us whats wrong, answer a few questions and most times we can give you an answer or something to check and eliminate.

Good luck

mark

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Swamperca Avatar
Swamperca Swamper CA
-, Nor Cal, USA   USA
1969 MG MGC GT "C-Rod"
1971 MG MGB "Rubee"
1974 MG MGB "Groovy B"
"Your shop is staffed by morons.... " Thank you Dick Spot on as usual

Mike 69 MGB GT Michael Salzman
Malvern, AR, USA   USA
To pull the starter on my 69 MGB GT you have to pull the distributor.
Sounds like the timing is off.



Stupidity will win in the end. The supply is endless.

Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
In reply to # 3695870 by rproietti Starter would not engage. Shop said it was in the electronic distributer. Replaced that with the original points dist and a kit to change it into an electronic dist. When the wanted $600 to rebuild carbs I had the towed home. Now I'm thinking of an alternative carburation set up. Weber?

I wouldn't do that, SU's are the most simple carbs in the world, sounds like you had some part changers working your car, no reason for you to continue that, use the forum and research, learn how to work it yourself, or at minimum got to shop that really knows Briitsh cars, after all these are pretty simple, but not so much to guys who wok on modern, most modern car folks for example don't even own a timing light, they don't need for modern ECU cars.

OK from the beginning, it won't run, what happens when you turn the key, does it do anything, engine turn over?



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


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ozieagle Avatar
ozieagle Gold Member Herb Adler
Geelong Victoria, Australia   AUS
1958 Wolseley 1500 "Wooly"
1966 MG MGB "Bl**dy B"
I agree with the comments about the so called mechanics.

Now to answer your question about overfilling, there is no problem. The excess oil will simply run down the outside of the tube, thus lubricating it, and dribble out of the piston bottom hole and be burned in the engine.

I have attached an extract from this book

https://www.mgexp.com/article/all/Tuning_SU_Carbs_Speedsport.pdf

which recommends filling above the tube.

To learn to tune SUs, start with the mechanical setup of the linkages and cables, as per the workshop manual.

http://www.geomatique-liege.be/MGJP/DocumentsPDF/MGB_Workshop_Manual.pdf

Once you have the mechanicals sorted then go on to tuning.

I have written a series of article son how to do this, basically around HS4s, attached

Herb



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Attachments:
Carby oil level.jpg    34.2 KB
Carby oil level.jpg

SU idiot guide.PDF    1.5 MB
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chris Avatar
chris Platinum Member Chris Roop
Pendleton, OR, USA   USA
Well said Dick. I doubt those people would do any better on American iron, unless it is new enough to spit out error codes telling them what to fix. Since the OP had the carbs built 3k miles back (assuming that they were built by someone competent) your cold air and gasket idea sound pretty good. If the shop was messing with the distributor, there's a whole nuther kettle of fish to explore.


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