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Liqiud Rust Removers. Worth It?

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Liqiud Rust Removers. Worth It?
#1
  This topic is about my 1972 MG MGB MkIII
albeegreen1 Avatar
albeegreen1 Gold Member bob tresch
bordentown, NJ, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB MkIII "ALBERT"
Found some old reviews in search. Any one lately used any good liquid rust removers? Not interested in blasting. What is the best? Real pitted rust, not oxidized flash.
Maybe jazzing it up with some muriatic acid??? Thoughts?



"Be yourself, because everybody else is already taken". - Oscar Wilde.

"If wishes were horses, beggars would ride" - Phineas Quimby.

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gdiehl Avatar
gdiehl George Diehl
Brighton, USA   USA
1971 MG MGB GT
1974 MG MGB
I use EVAPORUST which I get at Home Depot or automotive stores. It is the best that I have ever used and it is reusable. In liquid form yo have to place the part in a container with the rust remover but they do have it get form as well. Easy to depose of as well.

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
I second Evaporust! I keep a container with 2 gallons of the stuff on my bench and put anything with rust on it in there for a good soak. I actually have two containers side by side, one has SuperClean undiluted and it will remove the toughest grease as well as paint if you leave it long enough and I normally get a year of use. Degrease before you soak in Evaporust and it will work wonders.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

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Ryan Reis Avatar
Beatrice, NE, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB
I've been trying to figure this out myself on the '66 Chevelle that I'm working on. It's not feasible for me to blast the entire underside, and not really necessary for the level of finish I'm working towards. I looked at Evaporust but the container seemed to indicate it might not work the best as it needs to be kept wet. I ended up ordering KBS Rust Blast and a quart of KBS Rust Seal from Amazon. I think this is basically similar to POR-15.



Ryan


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albeegreen1 Avatar
albeegreen1 Gold Member bob tresch
bordentown, NJ, USA   USA
1972 MG MGB MkIII "ALBERT"
I do not have the room ANYWHERE for even a bench top HF cheap-o. Gerry wrote in an old post a very good tip. Blast media will get all over your stored car no matter. So liquid it is. I will go to Homie Dee's this weekend and mix some up. Eastwoods as usual is $$$. Just fooling with bucket size bits.



"Be yourself, because everybody else is already taken". - Oscar Wilde.

"If wishes were horses, beggars would ride" - Phineas Quimby.

lorwood Avatar
lorwood Ed S
Ridge, NY, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB
I have used some rust converters or stabilizers from Eastwood on other cars. Never really had 100% faith in them. Sand or media blast and then cut and weld where needed are the only true failsafe methods IMO.



"He rides 'er low on the hip, on the side he's got "Bound for Glory" in red, white and blue flash paint
He leans on the hood telling racing stories, the kids call him Jimmy the Saint".."And I said, "Hey kid, you think that's oil? Man, that ain't oil, that's blood"
I wonder what he was thinking when he hit that storm, or was he just lost in the flood?"

V8MGBV8 Avatar
V8MGBV8 Carl Floyd
Kinggsport, TN, USA   USA
Way cool body stand, Ryan! thumbs up

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
Molasses works. I tried Evaporust but saw no difference... in fact I though molasses worked better. Muriatic acid is nasty stuff and corrodes metal like crazy that gets exposed to the fumes. Then you have to dispose of it somehow.

There is also "electric" rust removal. I did some large pieces that way.

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

bencii Ben Colpitts
Mansfield, OH, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB
KrudKutter also makes a rust remover. Home Depot carries it. 32oz for about $8.

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Ryan Reis Avatar
Beatrice, NE, USA   USA
1968 MG MGB
Thanks Carl, I stole the idea from a member here (Steve?) and I've seen it used a few times on chevelles.com. It took a bit of a grunt to get it tipped up!

No way I'd use Muriatic acid. That stuff is nasty.



Ryan

Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
In reply to # 3689236 by Ryan Reis I've been trying to figure this out myself on the '66 Chevelle that I'm working on. It's not feasible for me to blast the entire underside, and not really necessary for the level of finish I'm working towards. I looked at Evaporust but the container seemed to indicate it might not work the best as it needs to be kept wet. I ended up ordering KBS Rust Blast and a quart of KBS Rust Seal from Amazon. I think this is basically similar to POR-15.

Ryan,
I would get some Rustoleum phosphoric acid rust remover/primer and spray it on. I use it on fenders, bonnets, any big pieces of sheet metal and it works great, cleans out the pits, etc.
Rut

Ryan,
The correct brand is Kleen Strip, not Rustoleum...sorry for the error.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-03-02 06:39 AM by Perdido.

pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
I've been using POR Metal Ready. It's just phosphoric acid. It does wonders for light rust and preps the metal with a coating that has a good tooth and some corrosion protection. It "converts" heavier rust into ferric something or other. (too lazy to google it) It keeps bare metal panels from "flash rusting".

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 9psi boost, "stock" high ratio rocker arms, 8:1 compression, Piper 270 cam, ported head, matched manifolds, CB Performance computerized ignition.

aeroshadow Alex B
Port Dover, ON, Canada   CAN
Por 15 Metal Prep ( a phosphoric acid solution) works pretty well after the rust is mechanically removed. Wire wheel in a die grinder, "toothbrush" sized wire brushes, lots and lots of elbow grease.
Then work the Metal prep into the pts with the toothbrush. It ends up with a gray phosphate coating .
Sandblasting is the best method but we can't always do it so we compromise.

oleanderjoe Avatar
oleanderjoe Gold Member Joseph Baba
Fresno, CA, USA   USA
BOB: Had some BAD results with so called "Rust Converters" some of it is crap. especially the stuff I bought from "E!@#$%^&*()_$%^&*( Company" I have had GOOD results with "Jasco Metal Prep" Changes the rust from "Ferrous Iron" to
"Iron Phosphate" Works great, Strong stuff Wear Rubber Gloves, Goggle's. Cheers.


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Perdido Avatar
Perdido Gold Member Rut Rutledge
Tuscaloosa, AL, USA   USA
In reply to # 3689390 by oleanderjoe BOB: Had some BAD results with so called "Rust Converters" some of it is crap. especially the stuff I bought from "E!@#$%^&*()_$%^&*( Company" I have had GOOD results with "Jasco Metal Prep" Changes the rust from "Ferrous Iron" to
"Iron Phosphate" Works great, Strong stuff Wear Rubber Gloves, Goggle's. Cheers.

I’ve had really good luck with the Jasco Metal Prep, but our local Lowe’s only stocks the Rustoleum brand. They both get to the same place, but the Jasco product got there faster.
Rut



1960 Bugeye undergoing restoration, 1275
1970 MGB, Pale Primrose
1967 Triumph TR4a
1966 Triumph TR4a
When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down 'happy'. They told me I didn't understand the assignment, and I told them they didn't understand life. John Lennon

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