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Reinstalling seats on 65B question (Carpet issue)

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Mpgmusic Avatar
Mpgmusic Silver Member Mike G.
Dallas, TX, USA   USA
1965 MG MGB
Hi everyone,
I have a quick question. I am re-installing my seats on my '65B. When I took them out, they were bolted down ON TOP of the carpet. In other words, the wood spacers were sitting on top of the carpet and the bolts were going through the wood spacers and down through the floorboards. I have added a padded heat shield on top of my floorboards. I think it would be better if I cut out long rectangular squares in the heat shield for each of the wood spacers so that they are in direct contact with the floor board as opposed to sitting on top of the heatshield. I also think it would make sense to cut out the same pattern in the carpet so that when I put down the seats, the rails will sit directly on the wood spacers which are sitting directly on the metal floorboards. To me it seems that this would make for a more solid bolt for the seats directly to the floorboards instead of just setting the wood spacers on top of the carpet, which is sitting on top of the heatshield and then sliding the bolts through.

I hope this makes sense. So my question is - am I correct in thinking I should cut out a template in the shield and carpet so that the wood spacers are in direct contact with the metal floorboard and the seat rails sit directly on the wood spacers?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Mike Guillory (mg)



Mike G

MG's MG "Sebastian"

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riley1489 Avatar
riley1489 Gold Member Bruce H
Great White North, QC, Canada   CAN
1953 Jaguar XK120
1959 Riley 1.5 "King George"
1973 MG MGB
Your car would have initially been fitted with rubber floor covering.
The seat runners sit on wooden spacers to keep them true. The seats are fastened to the floor through alloy spacers, (slightly thicker than the wooden spacer) and are directly to the floor. Nothing should be between the alloy standoff/spacer and the floor to have a solid attachment.

You have a build up of compressible 'soft' material under your seat runners so you will need to do something to ensure a solid fixing to the floor.

Good luck

B



Check your ego Amigo!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-02-13 08:27 AM by riley1489.


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Gerry Avatar
Gerry Gold Member Gerry Masterman
Prairieville, LA, USA   USA
The alloy spacers should sit directly on top of the metal floor. Carpets should have a hole cut out so that the spacers will rest directly on the floor.

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bencii Ben Colpitts
Mansfield, OH, USA   USA
1966 MG MGB
I would not cut the carpet for anything other than the alloy spacers. Depending on the thickness of your heat shield material you might have to use a thicker spacer or add some flat washers. Cutting for the wooden slats would make for a very unfinished look and might cause the carpet to unravel over time.

BillzB Avatar
BillzB Gold Member William M
Batavia, IL, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB
Mike,

I had a very similar problem. After replacing my floor pans, I installed the original carpet but I put in new heat shielded/insulation (Moss 409-016) under it. I could hardly bolt down the seat, and the extra insulation created such a bow in the wood spacer (and the seat runner) that it was almost impossible to slide the seat back and forth. I was able to remedy the situation by replacing the original hardwood spacer with a piece of 3/16 thick steel. It is the same dimension as the hardwood spacer, but I made the holes in the steel only 1/4 inch wide (enough to accommodate the bolts that hold the seat, but not enough to allow the alloy spacer through that goes between the runner and the floor pan). It still took effort to bolt the seat down (because there is still enough padding in the insulation that it is tight between the runner and the floor) but everything is tightly secured and the seat adjusts freely.

Bill

boggsy64 Avatar
boggsy64 Platinum Member Ken Boggs
Brooksville, KY, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB "Dad's Hand Me Down"
I would agree that cutting the carpet all the way around the wood slats would lead to a mess with carpet unraveling and curling!! just cut out for the spacers... good question though

Noble66 Avatar
Noble66 Gold Member Noble Bradford
Orlando, FL, USA   USA
1964 MG MGB "Black Betty"
1969 MG MGC GT
1974 MG MGB "Whitey"
Mike, I do this with all my cars when I install the carpet. Additionally, I cut laterally across the carpet so when the carpet gets wet I can easily remove it. You may want to do the same thing with the heat shield. I’ve done this on probably 8 cars now and I’ve never had a problem with unraveling.

In reply to # 3680441 by Mpgmusic Hi everyone,
I have a quick question. I am re-installing my seats on my '65B. When I took them out, they were bolted down ON TOP of the carpet. In other words, the wood spacers were sitting on top of the carpet and the bolts were going through the wood spacers and down through the floorboards. I have added a padded heat shield on top of my floorboards. I think it would be better if I cut out long rectangular squares in the heat shield for each of the wood spacers so that they are in direct contact with the floor board as opposed to sitting on top of the heatshield. I also think it would make sense to cut out the same pattern in the carpet so that when I put down the seats, the rails will sit directly on the wood spacers which are sitting directly on the metal floorboards. To me it seems that this would make for a more solid bolt for the seats directly to the floorboards instead of just setting the wood spacers on top of the carpet, which is sitting on top of the heatshield and then sliding the bolts through.

I hope this makes sense. So my question is - am I correct in thinking I should cut out a template in the shield and carpet so that the wood spacers are in direct contact with the metal floorboard and the seat rails sit directly on the wood spacers?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Mike Guillory (mg)

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Mpgmusic Avatar
Mpgmusic Silver Member Mike G.
Dallas, TX, USA   USA
1965 MG MGB
Hi everyone,
Thanks for all of the great feedback. One interesting thing is that I only has metal round spacers on the driver's side with NO wood spacers. On the pass side, there were wood spacers with no metal round spacers. What I think I am going to try is replace all of the wood spacers with resin rot-proof "harder-than-wood" slats that are exactly the same thickness as the wood. See pic one below. (I will paint them black). I suppose the spacers were there to keep the wood slats in place, but I plan to drill holes in my new resin spacers that are just the size of the bolts. I will also cut the carpet where the slats are, but my wife is great at sewing, so she will hem the edges to keep them from fraying. Thanks again for the tips, hopefully my plan will work well.

mg



Mike G

MG's MG "Sebastian"


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oleanderjoe Avatar
oleanderjoe Gold Member Joseph Baba
Fresno, CA, USA   USA
Mike put the wood on top of the carpet. I usually Epoxy the Aluminum spacer to the floor. Helps a lot. .??? Cheers


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Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
I used both methods and still use the second one:
1) originally with the original rubber mats still inside the carpet pieces I had cut to size using a selfmade template passed around the woodenstrips, alu spacers included I must admit the carpetmaterial being used was very thick and rather rigid, so cutting around made sense. And removal of thse carpet pieces was easier of course...

2) after installing carpets all around, sills included I just let the strips and spacers sit on top of the rear carpet pieces (the front mats are NOT held by these, but by these Veltex clips)
Also quite OK, my carpet pieces are not that thick and removal of the two front mats is sufficient for cleaning the interior

However if one adds even more material between strips and the metal floor I guess the second method may no longer work as well. Since the thickness of the spacers is the same as that of the strips by design, I see no merit in just cutting holes for the spacers: the woodenstrips will be pressed in too much or the seatslider to spacer fit will be lacking. I can think of a compromise solution: cut the holes for the spacers in ALL material so they rest firmly on the metal floor pieces, BUT fill up with enough washers of the same diametre to get an even surface for the sliders to rest upon. Maybe if the overall material is VERY thick, slightly longer bolts may come in handy. Always Waxoyl these bolts before mounting them to prevent seized bolts eye rolling smiley

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