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What did you do with your MGB today?

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Chriswatts Avatar
Chriswatts Silver Member Chris Watts
WISBECH, Cambridgeshire, UK   GBR
1975 MG MGB "JMMY"
In reply to # 3754027 by J Baz Just run a dedicated and fused wire direct to the battery by passing the switch or connect at the switch if possible. Just do a neat job you don't want to be a dpo to the next owner.

Hey J Baz,

So is that - Run a fused wire from battery Positive? to what??

Sorry to be such a dick!

Chris

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1987FXRP Avatar
1987FXRP Silver Member Jim Graves
Atlanta, GA, USA   USA
1976 MG MGB "Jesse"
Today I pulled off my front wheels in anticipation of getting new brake pads delivered from Amazon tomorrow. When I first got the car I installed a brake kit from Moss 182-118. It had semi-metallic pads and they have been squealing ever since. The one that I ordered from Amazon are Wagner Thermoquiet PD27 ceramic disc pads. I will put them in and see what happens.

ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, AB, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
The other day I finally replaced the braided vent hose from the fuel tank to canister in the trunk. Always had a gassy smell in trunk whenever I filled the tank. Filled the tank right full and went for a 20 mile drive and NO SMELL OF GAS.

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Anjawells Avatar
Anjawells Jay and Amy W
Williston, ND, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB
Backed her out of garage and drove around block.

ZetecMGB Avatar
ZetecMGB Gold Member Brian Collins
Orlando, FL, USA   USA
Got a pretty cool feature about my Zetec powered MGB. https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=24636
*Warning- not for purists.


Member Services:
Ceres Motorsports specializes in performance car parts for classic British automobiles.

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JustinSchroder Avatar
JustinSchroder Justin Schroder
Lynchburg, VA, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB MkIV "Nigel"
Yesterday, I drove it to work and for errands. Cloudy and 60-something degrees or so. Much better than 80+.

Nigel developed a serious off-idle flat spot and a top end restriction to about 4,000 rpm during the course of the day. Apparently, the top end and idle had been suffering for a while. After checking all the plugs, cleaning the carb after checking for a new vacuum leak, and doing a test drive with the very oily and dirty air filter removed, I changed the fuel filter.

The old fuel filter must have been a bum straight from the box because it sure looked new. The real new fuel filter flows properly and we are enjoying a smoother drive with much more power to merge and fourth gear acceleration. The idle is at about 1200 now which gives me the impression that a previous owner set it higher to counter the effects of the bum fuel filter...who would suspect a new fuel filter to be a bum anyway?

Between the previous low idle, rough idle/off-idle bogging/hard-starting on hot days, long rev time during merges, and poor gas-mileage, I suspected a rich or over-carburetion issue. Never considered fuel starvation as the fault.

Now to find an air filter which doesn't cost $16 or $40.

JustinSchroder Avatar
JustinSchroder Justin Schroder
Lynchburg, VA, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB MkIV "Nigel"
In reply to # 3754894 by ZetecMGB Got a pretty cool feature about my Zetec powered MGB. https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=24636
*Warning- not for purists.

Congratulations. If I were a purist, this would be great because it's still a four cylinder engine, just modern. Then again, I'm not a purist, so my point may be moot.

Great work all 'round in my opinion.

WINK Avatar
WINK Gary W
Mayville, ND, USA   USA
1979 MG MGB
NEW BRAKE MC, NEW BRAKE LINES, OIL CHANGE, AIR FILTER, CHECKED ALL FLUIDS, NEW CIG LIGHTER. READY TO HEAD TO YELLOWSTONE.

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David H Avatar
Ellensburg, WA, USA   USA
Spent the last few days getting new wheels/tires ready and waxed. Then yesterday/today I used a clay bar, polish/buffed, then waxed the car. Also cleaned up some chrome. Then used clay bar on the windows. This took off most of the grime from sitting in a barn for 17 years. Looks really good to me.



David

1973 MGB GT


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Ray in PA Avatar
Ray in PA Raymond Franks
Drums, PA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The Golden Chariot"
1992 Jeep Cherokee "Silver Fox"
2004 Subaru Outback "Subie"
In reply to # 3755062 by David H Spent the last few days getting new wheels/tires ready and waxed. Then yesterday/today I used a clay bar, polish/buffed, then waxed the car. Also cleaned up some chrome. Then used clay bar on the windows. This took off most of the grime from sitting in a barn for 17 years. Looks really good to me.

Where's that barn? I'd gladly put mine in there for a little while, if it'll come out looking that good!

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dohc281 Avatar
dohc281 Gold Member Ira Eckstein
Laurel Springs, NJ, USA   USA
I’ll be the first to ask, what is the story behind those steel wheels?

In reply to # 3754894 by ZetecMGB Got a pretty cool feature about my Zetec powered MGB. https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=24636
*Warning- not for purists.



If you hit your pony over the nose at the outset of your acquaintance, he may not love you, but he will take a deep interest in your movements ever afterwards.



Rudyard Kipling

LesT21 Avatar
LesT21 Gold Member Everett Thompson
Costa Mesa, CA, USA   USA
1952 MG TD
1965 MG MGB
Finally got tired of tripping over the new leaf springs in the garage, so decided it was time to bite the bullet and work on the suspension. Have had the springs and a poly bush set for about a year. Got the car on stands and removed the old springs that were pretty sad, serious reverse arch and old bushings. Fortunately, the front spring bolts came out without a fight. A little fiddly getting things lined up when bolting the new springs in. Replaced the old travel limit straps with the ones from the strap guy here on the forum. Rear shocks not leaking and had decent resistance in both directions when I moved the arms, so they're staying for now. Car doesn't sag in the back and rides a lot nicer.

So on a roll, decided to tackle the front. Had a poly bush set for the front, along with NOS front shocks and rebuilt king pins. Decided to not replace the king pins since I'm planning on converting to bolt on wheels and will do it at that time. Thinking that it would be handy to have an extra set of a-arms that I could re-bush and just swap in, I went looking for some arms. Found a set with poly bushes on Ebay, so put in an offer. After putting in the offer, I popped over here and saw Stewart's post about the parts he was giving away. Contacted Stewart and made arrangements to pick up the a-arms he had, he graciously threw in a set of Suplex springs. The Ebay seller let my offer expire, much to my relief.

With everything in hand started on the drivers side. Using the oft mentioned spring pan method, dropped the springs out. Slick and easy, with the springs out started dismantling the old suspension. Got the new lower arms in place, then removed the upper trunnion bolt and replaced the shock absorber. Torqued all the fasteners and gave the suspension a shot of grease.

Rack and pinion gaiter was torn on the drivers side and old on the off side. To maintain toe alignment, I used my vernier calipers, set at one inch and marked the tie rod that distance from the jam nut. Removed the tie rod end and jam nut, cleaned things and installed the new gaiter. Then did the same on the off side before starting work on that side. With new gaiters in place, Cleaned the area around the plate over the pinion, removed the plate and added the recommended gear oil and replaced the shims and the plates. Rack and pinion done and feeling smooth.

Then on to the offside. This one fought me a bit. The lower trunnion bolt was frozen in the steel sleeve. Had to dismantle the a-arm and push it out. One of the new a-arms happened to have the lower trunnion bolt with it, So with a sleeve from the kit for the rebuilt king pins, got that lower arm on. When I removed the nut on the upper trunnion bolt the nut didn't feel right coming off. Cleaned up the threads on the bolt with a die and tried to do the same with the nut. The nut just didn't feel right on the tap and spun well before reaching the recommended torque. Pulled the nut back off, came off nicely and the threads on the bolt still looked good. So into my stash looking for a 7/16-20 nut. Not a size I just have laying around, as luck would have it found one on an old Mini upright. Not castellated, but torqued down properly and will hold until I get to a hardware store. Now with the new spring in place and the spring pan bolts torqued, it was time to get the wheels on and get the car off the stands.

Took a quick test drive, what a difference!

Car feels great with new springs and bushings on all four corners.

The spare a-arms made the whole job easier and quicker. Without them, would have had to pull the ones off the car, clean, paint, re-bush, then replace. Would have added at least another day or so to the whole deal.

ZetecMGB Avatar
ZetecMGB Gold Member Brian Collins
Orlando, FL, USA   USA
Quote: I’ll be the first to ask, what is the story behind those steel wheels?

I wanted something similar to the original steel disc wheels but with a larger size (15x6). I ended up modifying modern Nissan wheels- cutting out the wheel centers, changing the offset, measuring/adjusting for lateral & radial runout, rewelding, and refinishing. Current tires are 195/55R15 BF Goodrich Sport Comp 2's.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-06-13 07:44 PM by ZetecMGB.


Member Services:
Ceres Motorsports specializes in performance car parts for classic British automobiles.
David H Avatar
Ellensburg, WA, USA   USA
In reply to # 3755232 by ZetecMGB
Quote: I’ll be the first to ask, what is the story behind those steel wheels?

I wanted something similar to the original steel disc wheels but with a larger size (15x6). I ended up modifying modern Nissan wheels- cutting out the wheel centers, changing the offset, measuring/adjusting for lateral & radial runout, rewelding, and refinishing. Current tires are 195/55R15 BF Goodrich Sport Comp 2's.

That is a ton of work. Good for you at getting exactly what you want.



David

1973 MGB GT

33EJB Avatar
33EJB Tim C
LS, Eastern Ontario, Canada   CAN
1969 MG MGB
In reply to # 3754894 by ZetecMGB Got a pretty cool feature about my Zetec powered MGB. https://www.engineswapdepot.com/?p=24636
*Warning- not for purists.

Purists be damned - that's one spectacular MGB you've got there.

Must be a blast to drive.

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