It's been 4 years since the car went back on the road, and 12,000 miles. Time for the normal spring maintenance (valve adjustment, oil change, chassis lube, brake adjustment including parking brake), and adding in an ignition maintenance cycle in honor of the 12k miles. I'm running points, and haven't touched anything in the ignition system for 4 years.
Which was clearly not a good idea. Even though the car was seemingly running fine, when I pulled the distributor and checked the point gap, it was down to .002 (should be .015). I've been carrying replacement cap/rotor/points sourced from Adv Distr's in the boot, so it was time (ok, past time...) to put those to use. From now on I'll at least check the point gap every spring.
When I put the dizzy back in and went to time it, I found that the dial-back function of my timing light was no longer working. So I static timed it instead. That'll have to do for now until I get a replacement light.
I replace brake fluid every other year, and this was an "other" year, so that got done too.
I finally addressed a couple of problem areas. The transmission has always seeped/leaked oil at the OD, and the speedometer cable attachment. I had sourced all the OD gaskets and o-rings, and the speedometer output shaft seal and o-ring, years ago, I just hadn't bit the bullet and replaced them as of yet. So this was the year for that. Yes, well past overdue, judging by the junk I found in the sump. I also hadn't changed the transmission oil in the last 4 years/12k miles. Likely overdue.
I used John Twist's videos as a guide, along with the VB parts catalog. Pretty straightforward. I added teflon sealing tape to the transmission bottom plug threads as well, since it's been leaking there. After about 50 miles of driving, and a week or so of sitting, no drips, so it looks like success.
I also replaced the differential gasket, and sealed it this time, and the drips from there have stopped as well. Woo hoo!
The car has always idled high for me. 1000 RPM was as low as I could get it, with the idle speed screws totally backed off. I figured there must be a slight vacuum leak somewhere, but I could never find it.
When doing the valve adjustment, though, I finally noticed that there was a vent in the bottom of oil filler cap. There shouldn't be one - the only crankcase vent should be the valve cover tube with its small hole. So I plugged the vent, and Voila! I now have to turn up the idle adjustment screws, and can get it to idle at 900, or lower.
The one thing I struggle with is tuning my HIF's. The diagnostic lean/rich test where you lift the venturi and see if it dies, or climbs, or climbs a bit and settles down - doesn't seem to work for me. So right now I figure I'm running rich, judging by the spark plugs. I'm hosting our local MG club for a tech session this Saturday, so maybe someone can teach me now to do adjust these properly then.
A few upgrades got done. I've switched to the Moss Tourist Trophy steering wheel. I'd been using the cheap VB wheel. It was functional, but didn't have the highest quality finish, nor was it the sturdiest. The TT wheel is finished very nicely, and is a bit heftier, both in the rim and the spkes. Definitlely a higher quality unit, and worth the extra $'s.
I added a dead pedal for my left foot. I sourced it from Ceres Motorsports. I'm sure I could have made my own, but this is a "nice bit of kit", and it was easy. I located it per their instructions, and my left foot loves it. Very natural, like it came from the factory that way.
Finally, I've been struggling to find a reliable phone mount. I don't like the window/suction mounts. I have a Scosche plate on my phone, and like the Scosche vent mounts, which I have on my driver, but that mount didn't like my MGB vent - it wouldn't reliably stay up. So I'm trying their cigarette lighter mount, and so far it looks like a winner.
I took the car for a test drive, it drove great. But, you know, it's always something. On the way out, the turn signals worked fine. On the way back, they didn't. No power on the green wire to the flasher module. Somewhere between the voltage regulator on the left side of the dash, and the flasher module on the right, there's a disconnect. I dove under the dash and tried to find it, but no luck. So I just ran a replacement wire, using the provided and previously unused extra spade on the regulator.
So right now, at this instant, I'm good for the driving season. Let's go!
Junk in the sump...should have done this earlier...