Use zip ties to hold calipers in place so they won't pop loose.

Sorry, but stupid here is still stupid. I see that you have zip ties holding the slave pistons in place. My question is why? Maybe if I explain what I usually do, then you can help me out with why putting zip ties around the pistons helps...

I plan to get my wife to help me with what I call the "press and hold" method: she puts pressure on the brake pedal, I loosen the bleed nipple, she continues pressing while fluid is pushed through the system and out the nipple, and she continues applying slow, steady pressure until the pedal will go no further and then shouts, "OK!", as I then tighten the nipple and then respond with "OK!", at which point she lets up on the pedal and we repeat the process over and over until I see no bubbles exiting the nipple with the fluid. Then we move on to the next slave cylinder.

So, how does putting zip ties around the slave pistons help with bleeding the slaves ("bleeding the brakes"?

Richard

First, in my own defense, I did admit that I may not be paying attention. So, I re-read your post - you are bleeding before installing the braking components to be assured that the slaves are working. Got it.

Just ignore me - most people do.

Richard

Stan explained it on another subject.
It is to facilitate the purge of the hydraulic circuit.

Sincerely, Thierry de l'Ardèche

Banjo Bolt removal

if the round head banjo installed at the wrong place

http://www.mg-tabc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=919&p=5278&sid=15ede5055d6026b2989d6a051fd97ac1#p5278

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Sorry for my bad english, School is 40 years ago, and in my job i don t speek English, with the TA it will be better in a few month

???

Sorry, Franz, there are some more easier) ways to skin that cat…

Ralph

TD 19435

????
https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?46,3827008,3827570#msg-3827570

Bill Casser :
That would be a good one to add to the tool thread above

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Sorry for my bad english, School is 40 years ago, and in my job i don t speek English, with the TA it will be better in a few month

I wanted to remove the crank pulley and replace it. The crankshaft pulley bolt / starting dog on a TF is 5/8 Whitworth, but if you don't have one 1 1/8 AF will fit - its a conventional RH thread. Difficult to access without removing the radiator, etc., but can be reached from underneath. I used a 5/8 Whit socket with a short extension bar fed through the starting handle hole from the engine side, then a socket set u/j on the rad side to a rachet handle. All lined up nicely, but it took a few taps with a rubber mallet to loosen it.
Behind the head of the bolt is a washer, but exploded diagrams also show a shim. Am I right in thinking that the shim goes behind the pulley, to provide fine adjustment of the alignment with the water pump pulley, etc? I can't see any other logical purpose, even though it seems over the top.
Dave H

Have since learnt from the other T type forum, that the shim(s) go in front of the washer to bring the crank end of the starting handle into a favourable starting position. This can also be seen on the exploded diagram in the WSM, though there is no proper explanation there.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2018-10-21 08:46 AM by Buckdendave.

My wipers always HANG a third way down on my windscreen. Quite annoying. I made a clip out of thin aluminum. No more peek thru them.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-10-23 08:30 PM by ML320X5.

When the motor is turned off, the other lever is pulled and rotated to lock into the switch. That action “parks” the wipers off the main part of the screen.

Probably in the drivers handbook.

Peter

When installing piston rings push the piston out over the deck and use the jubilee hose clip from the top radiator hose (TD) as a piston ring compressor. Then tap the pistons back down into the bore.
Regards
Declan

Mine was parked and fully engaged in the slot but still hanging. I also noticed many TD were the same. Unless I missed something on the adjustment.

Are they keyed onto the shaft or just a screw to locate them wherever you want them, I was just looking at a TD last week and they were snug up against the top of the screen.

Try locking the switch arm on the motor in place. Then loosen the nuts holding the wipers in place and rotate them in to where you want them to be when the wiper motor is shut off. Re tighten the nuts. Worked for me.

Tim

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1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette

Hoods stay open in dual positions:

Method one is quick and dirty (rubber pads method),
RTV rubber pads on the leading edge of the tool box.

Method two (stay open rods)
Get a 39.5" long 1/2" tube. RTV a round rubber pad on one end such that it will fit inside the hood latch round metal ring. RTV another rubber pad (old brake caliper cup seal works best) on the last firewall mounting bolt ( the one before it goes beyond the fender). I even put a piece of string on each rod to serves as a secondary safety feature.

Beyond that it's all upto your own imagination.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 2018-10-28 07:17 PM by ML320X5.