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T-Series Tips, Tricks, Short-cuts & Cheats

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Declan Burns Avatar
Duesseldorf, NRW, Germany   DEU
Thierry,
Yes to take the rattle out of the gear lever.
Regards
Declan

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MGTF1500 Ardeche France Avatar
MGTF1500 Ardeche France Thierry SUCHIER
TOURNON SUR RHONE, Rhône-Alpes Auvergne, France   FRA
Oh, yes, but I adapted a spring instead of the one that was broken. Since more problem.
Sincerely, Thierry de l'Ardèche

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Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
Some of you might find this helpful when sorting out your distributor. Most of the information was originally provided by Bob Grunau.

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette

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Attachments:
Lucas distributor advance by type.JPG    21.6 KB
Lucas distributor advance by type.JPG

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cunhab Avatar
cunhab Bruce Cunha
Placerville, CA, USA   USA
1950 MG TD
1967 MG MGB GT
In reply to # 3833707 by jimmac48 I use a piece of scrap oak wood about 1/2 thick. It is notched to fit over the hinges on the tool box and notched on the ends to accept the bonnet. Stores easily behind the tool box with the fuel stick when not in use.

I have the same piece for mine. Only difference is I put felt in the cuts to protect the hood.

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Gregory7500 Gregory Serduke
LaGrange, IL, USA   USA
Crude but effective!

Setting the toe using using this method is extremely simple and accurate. Make sure your wood stick is straight, don't over tighten the cable tie to cause deflection. Black marks indicate tire diameter, precisely set with a ruler to 1/8th toe-in.

Gregory s


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IMG_2741.JPG    50.8 KB
IMG_2741.JPG

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Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
Thanks. Does the same thing my expensive store bought rig does.

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette

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jseabolt Avatar
jseabolt James Seabolt
Mount Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
This may fall in line with one of those tools used to install the E-clip on the wheel cylinder.

If you have ever had to lay on your back and pump gear oil into a transmission or differential knows what a pain it is. Unless your lucky enough to own a lift.

Especially if the oil is cold and if it's that GL-1 90 weight gear oil.

Years ago I built this apparatus for filling the transmission and differentials in my cars.

It consists of a 1 liter funnel, large hose clamp, long piece of poly tubing some 2X4s and a piece of plywood for the base.

Why I built the stand only 3' tall, I don't know. That may have been the only 2X4s I had laying around at the time. Or I thought it was high enough to be above the transmission or differential.

I just fill the funnel, walk away, do something else, come back and top it off when the funnel is empty and let gravity do the work for me. I've used it many times and it beats the hell out of using one of those hand pumps.

I'm going to build a new stand using some 2X4s about 6' tall.



http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/?sort=2&page=0

1977 MGB
1980 Fiat 124 Spider (turbo)
1987 Yugo (1500 turbo)
1981 Trabant 601
1987 Citroen 2CV
1968 Ford Fairlane 500


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IMG_20190223_145428636-1612x1209.jpg

IMG_20190223_134642634-1612x1209.jpg    53.3 KB
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IMG_20190223_134703473-1612x1209.jpg    47.8 KB
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AZTD Avatar
AZTD Silver Member Mike Grogan
Glendale, AZ, USA   USA
1953 MG TD
With 190 in the MG, not much driving when it starts to cool off in TN.



1953 MG TD TD23816

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Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
Wiper motor adjustment tips:

I'm sure this has been discussed before. But since I just went through a frustrating and then successful afternoon gettin my Lucas wiper motor (that came in a box with my 53 TD) to function properly I thought I'd share what I learned. The problem was that no matter how I set the wiper blades they would go too high and hit the top windscreen frame on the right ot left. After fiddling with the blade position for some time I decided to look inside the housing. When I looked at largest gear I saw that it was marked 150. I figured that that had something to do with the sweep of the blades. I checked my box of parts and found a main gear that was stamped 130. I installed it and started to close up the case. But I remembered that when I rebuilt the wiper motor for my 51 TD I had to get the middle of the 8 tooth gear to line with a notch on the gear that engages and disengages the motor so that you can park the blades. See photo. I reassembled the case, reinstalled the motor and the blades parked in the proper place.

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette


Attachments:
Wiper parts.jpg    45.4 KB
Wiper parts.jpg

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Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
I bought two new sliding hubs for my TD gearbox rebuild. I have seen various clearances posted to determine if the synchronizers are worn. I thought I'd post pictures of the synchronizer clearance (average) when new sliding hubs are installed. This will give a starting point when determining synchronizer clearance. Other more knowledgeable members can advise what the minimum clearance should be on a useable synchronizer. This is just a starting point. BTW, the MOSS 1st 2nd gear sliding hub took a lot of filing of the grooves and lands to get a smooth sliding fit on the mainshaft. I don't know if others have had this issue. BTW these are not NOS hubs.

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette


Attachments:
sliding hub clearance.jpg    55.8 KB
sliding hub clearance.jpg

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