The all-new Front Page News Feed is now live   Read the announcement
MGExp

T-Series & Prewar Forum

Remote control bushings

Moss Motors
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor
AutoShrine Sponsor

Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
The shift rod (#43 in drawing) in my remote control has a lot of slop in it. It is an early TD gearbox without the longer shift rod in the case. Has anyone installed bushings in the remote control for the shifter rod? I remember hearing that John Twist used to do it.

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette

. Hide this ad & support a small business by becoming a Gold Supporting Member

Attachments:
shift rod.JPG    23.4 KB
shift rod.JPG

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
MGTF1500 Ardeche France Avatar
MGTF1500 Ardeche France Thierry SUCHIER
TOURNON SUR RHONE, Rhône-Alpes Auvergne, France   FRA
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/t-series-and-prewar-forum.46/steering-rack-noise-mgtd.2651914/

I think that's what you're looking for Tim
See the post of Declan
Sincerely, Thierry de l'Ardèche, South of France

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
Merci mon ami.

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette

. Hide this ad & support a small business by becoming a Gold Supporting Member
Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
Richs TD Farm Richard Cameron
Columbia, KY, USA   USA
Tim, I have done the bushing installation on my shift housings because they were all worn and sloppy too. As a mater of possible interest to you I still have an extra set of bronze bushings left as excess (bought too many). However, let me describe the difficulty I experienced.:
First--- the existing aluminum holes must be drilled to accept the new bronze bushings (5/8"o.d.). This operation presents a problem because standard drill bits are not long enough to reach all the way through the aluminum boss on the rear hole. A standard 6" drill bit will just barely clear the front hole though if the bit is inserted in the drill motor on the vert tip of its shank. Since required bits are 9/16" then 5/8" progressively to properly drill the aluminum bosses, All of the bits I could find have a minimum reduced shank to fit a 1/2" drill motor which some don't have. Extended length drill bits are available but are very expensive and could equal the cost of having a machine shop do the work as an alternative to DIY. Since I had 4ea. to do, I proceeded to go with the DIY route.
Second--- Alignment of the drilled holes turned out to not be a problem because the bushing fit was not that close and I was able to free drill them without issue. I used a dam of JB Weld on each cleaned bushing to securely install them using the shifter shaft for final alignment. Finally, I drilled a 5/16" hole in the side of the installed rear busting for the brass anti rattle plunger and spring assembly.


Tim, this narrative is just to inform you about some of the aspects of re-bushing the housing. Hopefully to help you decide if you have the capability to do this operation at home. If I only had one shift housing to do, I'm pretty sure I would try to find a machine shop to do it or like you mentioned John Twist possibly.

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
Richard thank you. Very informative. I sent you a PM.

Regards

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
TD4834 Avatar
TD4834 Bill Chasser
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
1950 MG TD
1951 MG TD MkII
Tim show us a play by play of your refit if your able. I have a few towers that I would like to save



Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
Tim66 Avatar
Tim66 Silver Member Tim Burchfield
Toledo, OH, USA   USA
1951 MG TD
1953 MG TD
As a quick fix I used JB Weld (Steel) to take up the sloppiness in the shift rod. I attached a piece of clear packing tape 2 inches wide to the rod where it would pass through the rearmost hole in the remote tower. I coated the tape with a thin layer of JB Weld and pulled the rod into position in the hole in the tower. I then used a small, flat bladed screwdriver to pack additional JB Weld into the oversize diameter on the tower hole at the shift rod. I installed the spring loaded plunger and allowed the JB Weld to dry. The next day I removed the plunger and the rod. I peeled off the tape, cleaned up the rod and reinserted it in the tower and reinstalled the plunger. The sloppiness is gone and the rod moves freely through the holes in the tower. We'll see how long it lasts. I have another tower and I plan on installing bushings in it.

Tim



1951 MG TD TD26711
1953 MG TD TD12524
1980 Corvette

Was this post helpful or interesting?
Yes No Thank
. Hide this ad & support a small business by becoming a Gold Supporting Member

To add your reply, or post your own questions




Registration is FREE and takes less than a minute!


Having trouble posting or changing forum settings?
Read the Forum Help (FAQ) or contact the webmaster