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Manufacturing the arms for Andrex shock absorbers

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Paul J Avatar
Locust Grove, OK, USA   USA
In reply to # 3881365 by Fsisson Bill... like your car with the side panel removed. Here is mine . One owner, passed in 1996, stored in a dry shed. I bought it several years ago. No intention of 'restoring' it. Patina is earned and the car has soul. I have replaced all suspension bushings, new leather interior, ring & pinion, supercharger, brakes of course w/Wilwood disks in front, stainless exhaust, twin spares, top, oil cooler, twin vintage BiOscor lights, etc. No idea what's in the engine, daughter told me her father rebuilt it several times. Original owner was a machinist... even made his own steering wheel! Been running the blower several years, no problems. My favorite daily driver..

Back to Andrex... I considered the 'kit idea but it took me a lot of study and discussions with a retired Cummins engineer to figure things out. The two 'adjustmet' plates are a beautiful, simple bit of engineering/design. You need to understand how they work to assemble everything right. Not sure it's a job everyone could tackle and I think I'd probably get negative feedback. I have a couple of lathes and a plethora of tools collected over 64 years of automotive obsession so 'fine tuning' the assembly was fun for me. Not sure many people would want to spend the time...

I and I imagine others would love to see more pictures of your car. The looks of the car sets it aside from all others, I love it just as it is! Lot of history there. thumbs up PJ

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TD4834 Avatar
TD4834 Bill Chasser
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
1950 MG TD
1951 MG TD MkII
I certainly understand the efforts it took to make the repair parts a reality. The point being that you have already done the R&D work to make it happen. Expanding on that you could also defer some of your initial costs by making a production run. I’m quite sure there are more than a few of us that would be happy to make working units out of our broken and worn out spares. It would be good to get these back in working order and out into circulation again. Not all of our MK IIs are trailer queens and some of us enjoy an aggressive run on back canyon roads and closed courses. Anti sway bars aren’t allowed in some vintage class racing organizations. And finally, you would never get a complaint from me if they were made available.



Bill Chasser
TD-4834
TD/c-8151
TD/c-16920
TD-19408
TD-24060

Fsisson Avatar
Fsisson fred sisson
nashville, IN, USA   USA
1938 Morgan 3 Wheeler
1950 MG TD "007"
My guess is that the Andrex dampers really worked well and made a noticable difference in competition or... the factory team wouldn't have bothered installing them. That said... the Andrex developed a reputation for unreliability when released to the public. Yes they have an 'adjustment' but are not really 'adjustable' in the way dry friction (Andre- Hartford) dampers are. The Andrex adjustment is to a fairly narrow set point to insure they operate as designed.. Set them too tight and they either burn up or tear up inside. One good bump with them set too tight and they will shear the internal splines. It is risky to play with the adjustment while they are mounted on the car. You are working blind.

I have seen an article on Andrex dampers in a respected publication that was so wrong. As I recall the author stated that he riveted the wood disks "in the usual way". There are no rivets in an Andrex...

I talked to a TD expert at Moss early in my pursuit of learning about Andrex and they sent me a copy of that article. They had no clue...

Just found this photo of the stack of disks inside of my Andrex. It shows the order of assembly. The shaft in the photo is not finished but you can see the o-ring grove that that I use for the front oil seal. I used stainless disks and plates but regular steel would work fine. I refined the two adjustment plates (top of the stack) slightly, using the same clever design that insures flat pressure on the stack, but eliminating one componant.

The only modification I made to the case was to add a plug/vent to the top of the case.

They need to be kept full of oil or the wood disks deteriorate... and the only way to completely fill a stock Andrex is to remove it from the car and lay it on its back. Then you remove the adjustment bolt and squirt oil into the hole until it's full... then you replace the adjustment bolt and use a fish scale on the arm (I use a torque wrench on the nut) to adjust the torque. Adjustment is VERY sensitive... 1/16th turn makes a big difference. Then you reinstall it on the car. Now you know another reason why they were short lived.

They get warm after a long drive.. Friction creates heat, even vicious oil friction. With no vent and the lack of a real oil seal, they would force oil out around the shaft. Low oil.. more friction.. more heat.. more oil leaks... like they are destined to fail.

I addressed the filling problem and the expansion with the brass filler/vented plug. It also makes it easy to check that the case is full. I've been using them for several years now and they stay full. I did disassemble them after a year or so as I was curious to see what was happening inside. Everything looked like new... As it should.

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Reno Avatar
Reno Reno Cassar
Zabbar, Malta   MLT
Good afternoon fred

My Andrex seem to be in good condition. I am just missing the arms and links, which I have still to source or manufacture.

What torque did you set the turning force of the shock absorbers?

Regards
Reno Cassar

Fsisson Avatar
Fsisson fred sisson
nashville, IN, USA   USA
1938 Morgan 3 Wheeler
1950 MG TD "007"
Stack of innards inside fo my Antrex


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20190126_212431.jpg

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