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Front crankshaft seal

Moss Motors
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Mikelead Mike Leadbeater
York, Yorks, UK   GBR
1953 MG TD
Just finished turning an ally housing for a lip seal to replace the rope front crank seal.
This is slightly narrower than the lip seal, so the protruding seal should act against the housing to prevent leaks, although I will use some sealer as well.
Also polished the pulley spigot to minimise seal wear.

Hope it does the job, will be a while before I test it out

Mike

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Steve S Avatar
Abingdon West, Southern California, USA   USA
Nicely done. Just FYI, you can install a modern seal without any modifications or separate housings. Most of the big suppliers carry them inexpensively. They drop right into the groove with a bit of sealant.

Mikelead Mike Leadbeater
York, Yorks, UK   GBR
1953 MG TD
Steve, cheers, am aware of the goo-retained setup, I prefer a better- retained system seal, an nice little winter project if you own a lathe.

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Paul J Avatar
Locust Grove, OK, USA   USA
In reply to # 3885281 by Steve S Nicely done. Just FYI, you can install a modern seal without any modifications or separate housings. Most of the big suppliers carry them inexpensively. They drop right into the groove with a bit of sealant.

That's what I put in mine Steve and it's never leaked a drop, yet! Knock on wood. eye rolling smiley PJ

Steve S Avatar
Abingdon West, Southern California, USA   USA
I've installed a couple of them and not a drop from mine either. You just have to be careful to get it centered. Mike's solution should make that easier, assuming the metal housing itself is perfectly centered.

Franz1234 Franz R
Vienna, Austria   AUT
1948 MG TC
Which kind of seal you use. Mine looks different, want to use the best one.

Do you have the brand or number from the seal?


Franz


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Paul J Avatar
Locust Grove, OK, USA   USA
Moss - 120-750 front seal. PJ

Mikelead Mike Leadbeater
York, Yorks, UK   GBR
1953 MG TD
The seal is OIL SEAL (ID x OD x W): 35x45x7, bought on uk ebay from Cityseals, price £ 3.32

The housing is made from some ally bar, OD to be a good fit inside the rope housing, ie 1.84" dia, ,bored through approx 1.48", countered bored to fit the seal snugly to just under 45mm, to a depth of aprox 5.5mm, ie 1.5mm of the seal face protruding, and then with the seal pressed in, parted to a total length slightly more than the rope slot width to give a good fit of the protruding seal face against the front of the slot, rounding the corner of the ally before fully parting.

hope this makes sense.

remember to polish the seal running area on the pulley spoigot I used fine emery then my buffing wheel to get a mirror finish.

Mike

Buckdendave David Hill
St Neots, Cambridgeshire, UK   GBR
1954 MG TF
Or polish as well as you can and fit a Speedi-Sleeve if there are deep scratches.
Dave H

Mikelead Mike Leadbeater
York, Yorks, UK   GBR
1953 MG TD
Good point ,Dave.

There is probably enough meat on the seal spigot to re-machine and polish, then fit an undersized seal.

Mike

Buckdendave David Hill
St Neots, Cambridgeshire, UK   GBR
1954 MG TF
No need to fit an undersized seal - SKF 99146 1.411 - 1.417 fits the pulley perfectly and the standard seal (just a touch more compression, which is OK).
Dave H

Horst LEV Avatar
Horst LEV Horst Wendling
Leverkusen, NRW, Germany   DEU
For a propper centralized seal i made me a cutting tool on the lathe.
This tool is centered from the crankshaft -very important).
Second benefit is. I can remove the lipseal and change it, without any other parts to remove before.
Work on the Lathe max 3 h, Cutting the front covers carefully 10 mins.

more photos for all:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/wendlinghorst/16140653358/in/album-72157625544211384/

Horst


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