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Car back from being blasted, and now the work begins

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JMA Avatar
JMA Silver Member John Anderson
Donvale, Victoria, Australia   AUS
The car came back early today from having the engine bay and front wheel arches blasted.

There was some garnet still to be removed when I took these photos and the etch was yet to be applied, but what is evident is how dodgy some of the welding is and a lot hasn't penetrated the metal so the structure is compromised to my thinking. Many of the patches will need to be cut out and replaced. I didn't get the chance to drill out the broken bump stop bolts for those whom are eagle eyed.

For those interested, the engine is stripped and was a 50 year time capsule, the rotating assembly is off to be spun and I'll be finishing off the block tomorrow to go off next week for machining.

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PETE W Sussex Peter H
Ansty, West Sussex, UK   GBR
Ooh. Plenty to do then John. Mine looked a lot like that but more holes.

How was the bulkhead?

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Ken Plumstead Avatar
Smithers, BC, Canada   CAN
1965 MG MGB
1968 MG MGC GT
Lots of nasty looking welds there.

How were the rear wheel wells and trunk (boot) floor?

Ken



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JMA Avatar
JMA Silver Member John Anderson
Donvale, Victoria, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 3904849 by PETE W Sussex Ooh. Plenty to do then John. Mine looked a lot like that but more holes.

How was the bulkhead?

Actually that was okay. I didn't take a photo but the half box panel behind the valance that the bumper irons go through is like a sieve.

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JMA Avatar
JMA Silver Member John Anderson
Donvale, Victoria, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 3905071 by Ken Plumstead Lots of nasty looking welds there.

How were the rear wheel wells and trunk (boot) floor?

Ken

We just concentrated on the front of the car, you can see on the right side of pic 402 there is the red oxide primer that was applied previously. I did it this way as I knew the engine had to come out for the clutch and a generally tired engine and as the engine bay was brush painted and looked pretty manky it was a no brainer.

I know the rear wheel wells are okay as I spent a fair bit of time with my head buried in both of them doing the rear suspension poking around and removing bits of the deadener for the dampers and panhard rod.

The boot floor has been the bane of my existance, it was replace with one from another car and raised an inch from the original height. I was toying with the idea of replacing it with the correct part but the cost was too high and I decided to live with it. After what the front and engine is going to cost maybe that has been the most inteligent decision I've made so far.

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chormy Avatar
chormy Gold Member Shaun Holmes
Norwich, Norfolk, UK   GBR
1963 MG MGB MkI "3330 PE"
1964 MG MGB MkI
1967 MG MGB GT "BABE"
1967 MG MGC    & more
John , too old boys had this to restore, they thought it a bit much so bought a GT shell off me which we were going to scrap.. They had the pages for dimensions to check alignment.


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PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
Now I know why my painter said he had never seen any of the MGB's he has repainted with body shells as good as my C-GT. He was amazed at how original and good the body was everywhere. Only the lower front wings needed to have rust cut out and new metal inserted with the exception of original body damage by Pressed Metal when the body was made and it got caught in a jig. Apparently some B-GT's had this same damage when they were fully stripped before painting.

My car still has the pink protective coating everywhere, having the car 'Fisholened' (spelling incorrect) when only a few years old and then again in the 80's saved my car from the horrible rust damage that so many cars seem to have, the whole shell was 'Fisholened" again this time.

It was the rust through the roof from condensation, not helped by Air Conditioning, and the damp foam layer that caused the full strip and repaint, otherwise I would never of known of the body damage from Pressed Metal, apparently they simply bogged up the rear in front of the wheel arches before painting.

Living in a Sub Tropical climate with the car undercover all it's life and having only one owner has made a big difference. I will treat "The Truck" with great respect now that I have seen the above horrific photos. The cars next owner will get a good well sorted car once I am too old to drive it.

Bruce.


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PETE W Sussex Peter H
Ansty, West Sussex, UK   GBR
Don’t despair John, here is what mine looked like as the crap was being cut out.


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Bearsails Avatar
Bearsails Silver Member Michael Lippmann
Kingsville, Kingsville, Ontario, Canada   CAN
1968 MG MGC GT "Blewe"
1969 MG MGC GT "Uh Oh" (Rusty Red)"
1972 MG MGB "Betty"
1973 MG MGB GT "Trouble"    & more
Wow John

I appreciate my North Carolina 68 C more than ever...I never thought about major rust issues in Australia as I always pictured a very dry climate. But I suppose you also have the salt influence along the coast and in the more Northern areas higher humidity in a tropical type environment...
But still that is a lot of rust repair that was done. The 69 C that I have scrapped could likely have been fixed after seeing some of the stuff that is being fixed but in my mind was beyond my ambitions.
Good luck with the project!

Bruce

I agree - whoever gets your car (far into the future) is going to be one very fortunate individual!

Mike

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ron neal Avatar
Coastal, SC, USA   USA
1962 MG MGA MkII
1968 MG MGC
1969 MG MGC
1969 MG MGC GT    & more
John
Good luck with repairs and paint.
Ron



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-12 12:51 PM by ron neal.

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JMA Avatar
JMA Silver Member John Anderson
Donvale, Victoria, Australia   AUS
Mike,

The rust was from my cars first 7 years in Scotland before going to New Zealand in 1975, it was restored there in the mid 80's before coming to Australia in 2000. I know I'm critical of the welding that was done in the mid 80's but if that elderly Kiwi in his garage hadn't done what he did, would my car still be here?

Ron,

Thanks,

Although I've already worked out that retirement won't be an option. I'm going to have to work until I drop. This is of course self inflicted as I didn't need to strip the engine bay nor do I need to do half the things to the engine that I've committed to do, but I'm a suckerdevil smiley

As I've stripped the engine it has become evident that it was due for an overhaul, number 3 mains bearing was just starting to delaminate but fortunately hasn't damaged the crank, I cleaned 50 years of build up and it goes off for machining in the next couple of days. With another's point of view I'll then find out if what I've worked out for oiling of the tappets and rocker gear is hair-brained or viable.

John


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Ken Plumstead Avatar
Smithers, BC, Canada   CAN
1965 MG MGB
1968 MG MGC GT
In reply to # 3907598 by JMA
With another's point of view I'll then find out if what I've worked out for oiling of the tappets and rocker gear is hair-brained or viable.

John


Have you been reading Adrian's oiling the rockers thread on the B forum?

Ken



MG: Transforming gasoline into Fun!!!

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JMA Avatar
JMA Silver Member John Anderson
Donvale, Victoria, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 3907616 by Ken Plumstead
Have you been reading Adrian's oiling the rockers thread on the B forum?

Ken

No I haven't, but I'll be interested to have a read. I'll see if I can find it.

What I've been working on is to bore a pipe through the tappet gallery and plug into the oil feed to the head, block the feed to the head off and then use hollow push rods to feed oil to a set of Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum rocker arms. This way I can do away with the rocker shaft and get a valve lift that the alloy head deserves.

If my idea is viable I can then sleeve the tappet bores down to 0.842" (Chev size and the lightest) and even use a roller cam, possibly even an hydraulic one which would be a bit kinder to the top end.

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Ken Plumstead Avatar
Smithers, BC, Canada   CAN
1965 MG MGB
1968 MG MGC GT
John,

If that's the case there are a couple threads you need to check out on the B and Performance forums.

Adrian's (PinkyPonk) thread about an alternate rocker oiling plan.

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/diy-pedestal-type-hi-ratio-rocker-arms-for.3877222/

Adrian's thread also includes ideas on Dave Headley's Chevy rocker set up for the MGB head that does away with the rocker shaft.



Gerald O'Docharty's high performance EFI MGB engine build thread has some interesting ideas for EFI and oiling the cylinder walls from below.

https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mg-performance-forum.83/mgb-crossflow-efi-project.3777428/


Both threads are interesting reading and give one lots of food for thought on all kinds of new and wild modifications.


Happy reading,

Ken



MG: Transforming gasoline into Fun!!!

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Ken Plumstead Avatar
Smithers, BC, Canada   CAN
1965 MG MGB
1968 MG MGC GT
Ooops.

I see you are already participating in the MGB EFI thread.

Disregard that suggestion.

Ken



MG: Transforming gasoline into Fun!!!

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