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1969 MGC Alternator - Lucas 16 ACR - Wiring

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kirks-auto Platinum Member Robert Kirk
Davenport, IA, USA   USA
Ken,
You are doing a good job of explaining. If I may add, "brown wires" need to be 10 gauge, and that small wire which powers the tach is really run through the ignition switch. Kelvin's explanation, posted earlier by Peter Sussex along with yours should clarify this. Post #2
https://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,3700448



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Robert Kirk

kirkbrit@yahoo.com
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Ken Plumstead Avatar
Smithers, BC, Canada   CAN
1965 MG MGB
1968 MG MGC GT
Robert,

A small point of clarification; the power runs from the ignition switch, through the alternator warning light, to the alternator to provide 12V switched power to 'excite' the alternator.

I didn't mention wire gauge on purpose. I figured Keith and Steve would either copy the existing wire gauge or ask about it when they got that far. The wire gauge depends the planned load. 10 gauge would be sufficient for up to about 50 amps and will exceed the capabilities of both alternators.

Ken



MG: Transforming gasoline into Fun!!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2018-11-25 03:10 PM by Ken Plumstead.

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55-60MG4KM Avatar
55-60MG4KM Silver Member Keith Meyer
Corvallis, OR, USA   USA
As an FYI to everyone on this string I located the correct connecting kit for the 16ACR Alternator and purchased it for $30.00. Enclosed is a photo of the kit. Keith


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20190220_163449_resized.jpg

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Ken Plumstead Avatar
Smithers, BC, Canada   CAN
1965 MG MGB
1968 MG MGC GT
Looking good Keith.

Where did you find it?

Ken



MG: Transforming gasoline into Fun!!!

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55-60MG4KM Silver Member Keith Meyer
Corvallis, OR, USA   USA
Ken: I locatted it at the firm that rebuild all my British electrics here in Oregon. The guy has been around forever. Keith

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jltinkham Avatar
jltinkham Gold Member James Tinkham
Springfield, NH, USA   USA
First hit on googling - lucas plug kit 54219410

https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/oem-original-parts/lucas-alternator-plug-kit-54219410/



Tink
69 CGT
66 B
60 Bugeye

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55-60MG4KM Silver Member Keith Meyer
Corvallis, OR, USA   USA
I dont see the white/clear plug shown in the attached picture but it is a part of the kit! Better make sure all parts are included.

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kirks-auto Platinum Member Robert Kirk
Davenport, IA, USA   USA
Redundant post.



Regards,
Robert Kirk

kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders

Business phone 563 323 1017

http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-22 10:03 AM by kirks-auto.


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55-60MG4KM Silver Member Keith Meyer
Corvallis, OR, USA   USA
Final Follow Up: I procured the correct Plug Kit (See my Feb. 21 post) from a local rebuilder; I installed and soldered the slide in fittings to the wires as per the wiring diagram (See my Nov 24 Post); Installed the correct pulley (3.375” OD) on the Alternator; Installed the 16ACR Alternator; Insured the belt was tight; Inserted the plugs into the alternator; Started the vehicle.

I measured the voltage at battery at idle = 13.15V. At a slightly higher RPM = 14.35V. The operational light never came on like it did regularly with the aftermarket alternator.

Problem Solved and a period correct alternator installed. If I ever need addtional capacity I can modify this setup, now that I understand it.

Additional FYI’s:
• My 1969 MGC has a three wire system. Additional wires had been added and then taped off making identification of what the true wiring was confusing to say the least. Finally, I pulled the blue plastic wire wrap back until I had a clear view of the original wires. What was there was: One Large Solid Brown Wire; One Medium sized Solid Brown wire and One Smaller Brown wire with a Yellow Stripe wire on it. Both Brown Wires went to the same post on the starter. The Brown / Yellow wire went to a post on the backside of the dash warning light.
• The blue wire mentioned in my post was added after the fact to replace the Brown / Yellow wire which based on my continuity test had a break in it somewhere. The blue wire was “snaked” along the harness, through the firewall, under the dash and was soldered directly on top of the Brown / Yellow wire on the backside of the dash warning light.


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