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What did you do with your MGB today?

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Old Salt Platinum Member David Yager
Bushnell, FL, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
Drove it about 65 miles round trip to the nearest HF to purchase two more 4' LED shop lights. That makes 6 I have installed in the new 25' x 30' garage/shop. All lighting and electrical complete, lots of light to see by now. Epoxy on the floor next then move everything in and give the wife back her screen room. Man will she be happy when this thing is done.

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Jim Gevay Avatar
Circle Pines, MN, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB
I looked at it and thought about it.



Early 1974 MGB with OD, SU HIF's, 72 spoke chrome WW's, Schlemmer distributor, DuBois fuel pump, Limey's relays, Gerry's column kit.


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steve78b Avatar
steve78b Gold Member Stephen Brockwell
Elgin, OK, USA   USA
1978 MG MGB "Lilith"
Gave up on fiddling with an attempt to cobble together a steering wheel puller and ordered one from Moss.

I'm one of those cheap mechanics and couldn't stand paying for a simple tool. But it is better to have the tool and not break something.

Why not get it? OleanderJoe recommends it so that's good enough for me.



Steve B

PO's didn't do anything dumb.
They kept the car running with minimal fixes. THANK YOU!

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RollyTG Avatar
RollyTG Gold Member Roland G
Columbia, SC, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB MkIII "Bloody Mary"
I borrowed one from Advance Auto. Their loan scheme is such that you essentially buy it and then bring it back for a full refund. Easy really.

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Mr Creosote Avatar
Mr Creosote Dennis C
Visalia, CA, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB
Duplicate.. Grrr.. I hate it when I do that. But on the bright side. It's good for my post count.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-08 09:30 PM by Mr Creosote.

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Mr Creosote Avatar
Mr Creosote Dennis C
Visalia, CA, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB
I love any excuse to buy a tool. Can't have too many tools. I do have a few I've only used once or twice but they look great in my tool box.

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boltonr137 Avatar
boltonr137 Randy Bolton
Delaware, OH, USA   USA
1980 MG MGB "Yellow Banana"
Just started it up and let it run for about an hour, thought that might help with the blue Devil stop leak...

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RobAdams Avatar
RobAdams Rob Adams
Matthews, NC, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB "Ruby Vroom "RUBYVRRM"
Got my new LED lights to add flashers to my side running lights, pulled out my soldering kit and wire so I can install them tomorrow. All prepped!

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Ron1947 Avatar
Ron1947 Ron Gittings
Ludlow, Shropshire, UK   GBR
Dennis C is my sort of bloke, can never have too many tools and having the correct one makes the job so much easier. I've had tools for years that I've never used yet ….. but one day!!

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  Mr Creosote thanked Ron1947 for this post
1987FXRP Avatar
1987FXRP Silver Member Jim Graves
Atlanta, GA, USA   USA
1976 MG MGB "Jesse"
I have a 1976 MGB and I am doing a carb conversion from the ZS to dual SU's. I have searched the MGE for help in routing various lines and have come up with the following: I am installing HS-4 carbs. They are AUD135's, rebuilt by Joe Curto and they do not have ports for the oil separator line like the later ones, so I am planning on installing a PVC valve as per the 1964-1967 diagram on page 20 of Moss' catalog. From my research, my intake manifold is from an 18GK engine that I think is from 1969-70. I am adding a port where one of the plugs went for the ARV. I am using a 25D4 distributor, Lucas #41043, which I think came from a Talbot/Chrysler/Minx 1967-1970. It was on the car when I bought it and has performed pretty well. I understand that the vacuum advance line should go to a port on the rear carb. The car has been de-smoged and still has the carbon canister with a line to the valve cover (restricted). There is another line that went to the ZS carb and there is not a port for it on the SU's. What should I do with this line? I have read that some route the carb overflow lines to it. What happens in this case if there is an overflow? It looks like originally the overflows were routed to atmosphere below the engine. In this case, what should I do with the extra canister line? Should I just plug it?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have learned a lot about my car from this forum.


Jim Graves

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RichardTS Avatar
RichardTS Richard Smith
Covington, LA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The MG"
Firstly, the 25D4 will want a vacuum line that gets its vacuum from a tiny port in the rear carb in line with the throttle plate. Since the carbs are HS4’s there should be a small brass tube (~1/8)coming off the rear carb on the firewall side.

What it appears you are also having trouble with is the crankcase ventilation system. Since you are making it like an earlier model it will be best to understand what is supposed to happen. Then you can figure out how to make it happen.

The engine is supposed to run at slightly less than atmospheric pressure in the crankcase. The slight vacuum helps to keep oil and fuel vapors inside the engine. And a PCV enables that to happen. Air should be drawn continuously through the charcoal canister. After it departs the canister it goes to the tube on the rocker cover that has the small orifice (this orifice restricts the flow). Then it passes thru the engine and exits thru the tube on the front tappet cover. At this point it passes thru the PCV and into the inlet manifold so the oil and fuel vapors can be burned.

Your PCV choice is a good one (the one I use with my Mikuni sidedraft) because the $2 ones at the parts store do not have the correct flow for the MG system. Just make site you hook it up the correct way. When you hold it up with the funnel shape on top the bottom of the funnel should go into the inlet manifold. The port coming out the side should go to the tube coming out of the front tappet cover.

Now plug any openings left. As you can see the arrangement allows air to pass completely thru the engine. The orifice in the rocker cover causes the slight vacuum. The air then carries the fuel and oil vapors up thru the PCV and into the engine to be burned. The PCV is designed so that it does not open at idle or with high vacuum but opens at lower vacuum.

The side benefit of all this is the oil and fuel vapors stay inside the engine and you don’t end up with a film of oil all over everything in the engine bay. That is if it is sealed.

I hope this helps.

In reply to # 3905711 by 1987FXRP I have a 1976 MGB and I am doing a carb conversion from the ZS to dual SU's. I have searched the MGE for help in routing various lines and have come up with the following: I am installing HS-4 carbs. They are AUD135's, rebuilt by Joe Curto and they do not have ports for the oil separator line like the later ones, so I am planning on installing a PVC valve as per the 1964-1967 diagram on page 20 of Moss' catalog. From my research, my intake manifold is from an 18GK engine that I think is from 1969-70. I am adding a port where one of the plugs went for the ARV. I am using a 25D4 distributor, Lucas #41043, which I think came from a Talbot/Chrysler/Minx 1967-1970. It was on the car when I bought it and has performed pretty well. I understand that the vacuum advance line should go to a port on the rear carb. The car has been de-smoged and still has the carbon canister with a line to the valve cover (restricted). There is another line that went to the ZS carb and there is not a port for it on the SU's. What should I do with this line? I have read that some route the carb overflow lines to it. What happens in this case if there is an overflow? It looks like originally the overflows were routed to atmosphere below the engine. In this case, what should I do with the extra canister line? Should I just plug it?


Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have learned a lot about my car from this forum.


Jim Graves

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Beau Wyatt Avatar
Temecula, CA, USA   USA
With all the rain here in Southern California I decided it was time to try to reduce the rainfall of oil from my MGB � The main culprits seemed to be the side cover gaskets and the oil pan gasket. I’ve my had MGB for about 6 months now and this is the first time doing this. Over the past several weeks I’ve looked thru the MGExp archives and posts to learn as much as possible before embarking on this ‘adventure’. So, in order to get at the side covers I needed to drop the catalytic converter. I didn’t want to remove the manifold and what-not, too intimidating for me. After getting the converter loose it still would not drop completely out, but I was able to bungee it up and towards the back of the engine compartment and gain access to the front and rear covers. The 5 front bolts on the oil pan were somewhat of a booger to get out but no worries. After cleaning them up, my plan is to put a small bead of Red RTV Gasket Maker on the covers and pan, place the gaskets and let sit overnight with a little bit of weight on them and then install. My intention is to not put any gasket maker on the engine side so as to accommodate removal and not have to clean it off the engine, which would be almost impossible on the side covers wo removing the manifold.
Hey all, any input/opinions/criticisms would be much appreciated. Thx



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-09 08:18 PM by Beau Wyatt.


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jimandcassdavis Avatar
jimandcassdavis Silver Member Jim Davis
Swanton, OH, USA   USA
In addition to all of the above the 76 has non-vented fuel cap. If you plug the extra canister line you will create a vacuum in the fuel tank. It should be connected to the tank.

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RichardTS Avatar
RichardTS Richard Smith
Covington, LA, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB "The MG"
Yes, and there should be a piece of tubing already there next to the carbon canister. I forgot that. Thanks for reminding.




In reply to # 3905904 by jimandcassdavis In addition to all of the above the 76 has non-vented fuel cap. If you plug the extra canister line you will create a vacuum in the fuel tank. It should be connected to the tank.

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Green-B Avatar
Green-B Fred Mendricks
Mission, TX, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB "Green-B"
Added some "Bling" to the old gal. Factory optional side stripes, and stainless wheel rims. I think it looks great.


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