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Separate dash harness

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GMDad Avatar
GMDad Silver Member Don Nicholls
Caledonia, Southern Ontario, Canada   CAN
1963 MG MGB
1970 MG MGB "Mellow Yellow"
Has anybody separated the dash harness from the main body harness and found connectors to join back together when installed ? I would like to have all the wiring on the dash before I install it. Good or bad idea ?



Don Nicholls
Ontario Canada
1970 MGB Roadster "mellow"
1963 MGB SCCA Racecar
1940 Chev Street Rod
1965 Chev Pickup restored

"I get to drive them when the wife says I can"

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pinkyponk Avatar
pinkyponk Gold Member Adrian Page
Berwick, NS, Canada   CAN
As I recall the dash harness is separate? Maybe it's a model year thing?

Adrian



Home built Eaton M62 Supercharger with 7.6psi boost, 8:1 compression, custom "supercharger" cam from Schneider Cams, Mikuni HSR48 Carburetor, Chevy Cavalier 1.6 rocker arms, Maxspeeding rods with Teflon wrist pin buttons, custom aluminum cold air intake, CB Performance computerized ignition, Fidanza 9 pound flywheel, 1.44 exhaust valves in 48cc chamber head, matched manifolds, 2 1/4" exhaust system.

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GMDad Avatar
GMDad Silver Member Don Nicholls
Caledonia, Southern Ontario, Canada   CAN
1963 MG MGB
1970 MG MGB "Mellow Yellow"
The car is a 1970 and it is a new harness from England



Don Nicholls
Ontario Canada
1970 MGB Roadster "mellow"
1963 MGB SCCA Racecar
1940 Chev Street Rod
1965 Chev Pickup restored

"I get to drive them when the wife says I can"

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
> '78 had a separate dash harness. The connectors it used are NLA so you'd have to cobble something together if you wanted to replicate. I'm sure with a bit of thought you can set up the dash electrics with quick disconnect plugs. I have yet to explore this aspect with my V8 AAW loom but if I can I will.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!

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Limey Avatar
Limey Eric Marshall
Pentwater, MI, USA   USA
Separate dash harness was introduced around 1973-74 and uses two 9-pin connectors to the main harness. Harnesses and the 9-pin connectors are available - try British Wiring. However, converting a car that does not have a separate harness is not a simple task - I thought about doing it with my 1970 GT, but decided it was too much work. If you are replacing the main harness, it might be a good idea to update to a newer harness and get the separate dash harness. If you do give it a try, make copious notes, use correct wire colors, write it up and include it with any vehicle documentation - otherwise you could end up being a DPO!



Eric Marshall

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
"Separate dash harness was introduced around 1973-74 and uses two 9-pin connectors to the main harness"

I went off the M-E listing so were NA cars different? I tried to interrogate Autosparks but without a body number I can't.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!

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JohnyMc Avatar
JohnyMc John McFarlane
Mossman, Queensland, Australia   AUS
It's a 'cut and insert' process.
Time consuming for very little benefit but an easy mod if you're electrically savvy.
In 44 years I have only done 3 (I think).
Took about a day.
Connectors are readily available from specialized electrical suppliers.



Semi retired Auto Electrician with over 44 years experience. Specializing in pre 1975 car electrical systems. Trained on early Lucas, Bosch and Magnetti Marelli systems.
Australian Auto Electrician actively rebuilding and calibrating early Lucas and Delco Remy 1/2/3 bobbin regulators, Lucas generators/alternators (including 3rd brush and generator/starters) and magnetos. Large supply of original Lucas 1960 and 1970's parts to suit British cars (assembled and/or exported).

Available for guidance/assistance via email.

Be warned......I'm an grumpy old fart. I take no shit from people too lazy to do a preliminary search of the forum or google so therefore don't deserve my time.
Nor do I appreciate wasting time providing suggestions towards a solution to then have you ignore them because you have to do some actual investigative work, in favour of a possible solution from a knowall friend of a friend of a friend who once upon a time was a gardener with a shifting spanner and a set of pliers and somehow pretended they'd fixed their glowing ignition lamp with a piece of surgical tape, speck of moon dust, a scratch of their arse and a rusty razor blade.

And having said that, please don't mistake me for someone who even remotely cares what you think.

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melbaver Avatar
melbaver Gold Member Chris Howells
Carrington, NSW, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGB "Moneypit"
2012 Dodge Journey "Another Shopping Trolley"
You can sort of do it, but not in the way you envisage. Lay out the harness and identify cockpit connections from engine compartment/rear connections. You'll end up with quite a fistful of cable. That fistful then feeds inside the wall where the accelerator cable guide is and all fits through that tiny little hole, emerging in the cockpit unscathed and intact. It is doable, but get out the cuss-word Thesaurus beforehand.

Here's a few pics to get you oriented.



Chris Howells

1968 MGB Purchased already dis-assembled but which is largely back together so I'm a lot less ignorant.


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Limey Avatar
Limey Eric Marshall
Pentwater, MI, USA   USA
Not sure if the N/A cars were different from the dash harness perspective - I suspect that the reason for the separate harness was so that the main harness could be used universally with just a plug-in dash harness dependent on RHD or LHD.

I see what you mean about Autosparks - they only sell a harness "kit" and don't indicate if the dash is separate - but they also sell the 9 pin connector! Check the British Wiring website - they do list the harnesses separately by model-year grouping. Interesting because British Wiring get their stuff from Autosparks!

I don't have a shop manual with me, but I am fairly certain that there is no indication of a separate harness on those diagrams - the connector "may" be shown, but probably not as a single unit! But those diagrams are devilishly hard to read!



Eric Marshall

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Limey Avatar
Limey Eric Marshall
Pentwater, MI, USA   USA
That would be the "logical" way to do it but when BL did it, the dash connectors (on a LHD car) were just under the steering column, over the driver's knees! So you still had to thread a LOT of harness through that bulkhead grommet!



Eric Marshall

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
"I see what you mean about Autosparks - they only sell a harness "kit" and don't indicate if the dash is separate - but they also sell the 9 pin connector! Check the British Wiring website - they do list the harnesses separately by model-year grouping. Interesting because British Wiring get their stuff from Autosparks! "

Well Autosparks do sell individual harness' but to determine if they do for the OP's year you need the body number. Once you get passed that box the site indicates whether there's individual harness' or an all encompassing. And they sell various connectors but not the OEM that my GT had. When I was buying my AAW loom I asked about connectors and was told that the OEM are NLA so either reuse the originals or buy aftermarket.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-15 04:22 AM by MGB567.

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Limey Avatar
Limey Eric Marshall
Pentwater, MI, USA   USA
Interesting - but even when you click through on the Autosparks harnesses, they never show a separate dash harness. I tried it for the later year US spec vehicles, and I know they had a separate harness, but Autosparks don't list it anywhere!

The 9-pin connector that British wiring sell is the same connector (two of them) that were on my '74 roadster's harnesses. Not sure if it is OEM, but it connects with the OEM one on my dash harness! I have no idea why they would indicate otherwise. I did replace the main harness on that car ('74) and it plugged right into the dash harness. I bought that harness from Moss and I do not know where they source their electrical stuff.

This is the '74 dash harness sold by British Wiring which I believe is sourced from Autosparks - you can clearly see the two 9-pin connectors.



This is the connector that they sell:





Eric Marshall

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tvrgeek Avatar
tvrgeek Scott S
Hillsborough, North Carolinia, USA   USA
1965 MG MGB
Makes things easier, but, always a but.
But,
There is no such thing as a good connector, so you are adding a failure point.
But,
If you do it well, you can cut down on some of the existing connectors
And,
You can chose a better than bullet connector, properly use dielectric grease
And,
Provide a better, cleaner grounding for the gauges, indicator lights, dash lights etc. Move the stabilizer to the dash, flashers, relays etc.


The Molex/Amp type connector I do not consider high reliability. If crimped/soldered before the strain relief crimp, if seated correctly, if large enough pins, if use of grease, they are OK. Dirt cheap and up to at lease 18 pins in a connector to their advantage. It is easy to make things "fool proof" so only one connector can fit in it's matching end. ( how many posts have you seen with bullets stuffed in the wrong place) If it only goes together one way, you don't have to worry about silly color codes on the wire. I'm tempted to wire my next car in all black. Real technicians have no difficulty with "pin 3/J2 to
pin 4/P6"



Cogito ergo sum periculoso

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GMDad Avatar
GMDad Silver Member Don Nicholls
Caledonia, Southern Ontario, Canada   CAN
1963 MG MGB
1970 MG MGB "Mellow Yellow"
Thanks for the replies guys. It is looking like it could get very involved. The connectors you posted Eric was the idea I was thinking of. The main harness is in the car and 75% of the underhood harness is connected while the dash harness is lying across the steering column. I am going to do a better inspection of the dash harness to see what all is involved. In reality I should only need the "gauge cluster" part of the harness removeable so the wiper motor, console and signal switch portions won't have to be touched. Will dive into it more this weekend. Thanks guys



Don Nicholls
Ontario Canada
1970 MGB Roadster "mellow"
1963 MGB SCCA Racecar
1940 Chev Street Rod
1965 Chev Pickup restored

"I get to drive them when the wife says I can"

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
"If it only goes together one way, you don't have to worry about silly color codes on the wire. I'm tempted to wire my next car in all black"

What can I write!



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!

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