I was going to reply in another thread but it looked like it might get too long and way off topic. Never use and petroleum based rust proofing on your vehicle. Not only is it not very durable(it will come off in everyday driving situations), it makes it very messy to work on, and it isn't environmentally friendly.

The best rustproofing out there is boiled linseed oil. It will smell for a couple days, but it creeps like oil, disolves water, skins over on the top, repels dust, and stays "wet" under the skin. If you spray it on, your car WILL NOT rust, and any bolt will come out. I have seen this first hand. My friend has a 1979 mazda. and the car looks brandnew. And it really does, the bottom doesnt have any dirt and rust and no dolt has been rusted. The inside of the door skin, and he took it off to prove it, and no sign of rust. It is all still the original metal, and the car is driven year round in Canada in a city where we use ALOT of salt on our roads. It is an amazing product.

Kurt

i just let my oil leaks take care of all of that for me

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1979 MGB V6 Tourer

Penetrol, which JDW recommends, and I used on my B, feels alot like linseed oil. I wonder if linseed oil is the base?

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Greg
'73 B Mallard Green
18GH with Brittek 270 cam, Balanced
SU HS6
Peco header and exhaust
Eurospec dizzy, Lucas Sport Coil
O/D Black label
Kumho Solus 195/60-14 on Miniators
http://safetyfast.multiply.com/photos/album/4

it might be... I just know that linseed oil is chep and you can do it yourself. you can buy it an menards and at home depot, and only costs about 6 dollars a gallon. And you can almost do your car twice with it...

Kurt

From what I've heard, linseed oil smells like fish. Personally I'd rather just paint the bottom with a good coating of POR15. The last thing I need is a bunch of pussy cats chasing me down the street!

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Steve & Marilyn Fitch

1964 MK IV Farina
1966 B
1978 B

it only smells for the first 2 days after that the odor goes away. You could however combat that by buying double linseed oil, but if you do that the cost of the oil goes up alot. Straight boiled linseed oil is like i said 6 dollars a gallon. while double boiled linseed oil which has no scent is 30-35 dollars.

Kurt

Are products such as Penetrol or POR-15 available at universal places like Lowe's or Home Depot? Or is it special order only? I want to rust proof the inside of my floors this weekend.



Post Edited (05-11-04 09:15)

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Matt Mugherini
1965 MGB
1967 MGB

Lowes has Penetrol, but I bought it at a local lumber store called Lumberman's because it was a bit less expensive. Lowes isn't always the lowest!

It does seem to have linseed oil in it, but also seems like it's perhaps got some polyurethane or varnish content.

Rod H.

Is Penetrol extremely expensive or something? I will call a couple of local hardware stores too.

I am assuming it is a brush-on application. Any preferences for types of brushes?

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Matt Mugherini
1965 MGB
1967 MGB

Home Depot has Penetrol but you have to look around in the paint section for it. The employees don't know they have it. It was formulated for making paint flow better, thin for spraying, etc. Haven't used mine yet but plan on it when car gets back from the shop.

John

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John Bamford
69 B Roadster Pale Primrose Yellow
100K, HS-4 Carbs, Rebuilt Head
Owned for 8 years
Denver, CO

I still stand by boiled linseed oil. at 6-10 bux a gallon you can't beat the cost.

Kurt

Penetrol indicates on the label it can be used for rust. It can be brushed, and I used a garden sprayer to spray it in my sills.

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Greg
'73 B Mallard Green
18GH with Brittek 270 cam, Balanced
SU HS6
Peco header and exhaust
Eurospec dizzy, Lucas Sport Coil
O/D Black label
Kumho Solus 195/60-14 on Miniators
http://safetyfast.multiply.com/photos/album/4

Ok, thanks for the info guys. I'm going to get some and brush it onto my floors this weekend. Then, if (or when) water gets into the car- I won't have a heart attack while desperately trying to dry everything, especially the seams where the floor meets the sills and the transmission tunnel.

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Matt Mugherini
1965 MGB
1967 MGB

What's wrong with tar/pitch as from factory...

Henery's roofing repair is about an exact match...

Oil's become viscus when hot and run...

They also trap dirt which traps water...

Linseed oil NEVER HARDENS think on that one...

will ruin materials and paint that is not oil based...

No - so sorry I disagree. I use penetrol then waxoil
in the sills and rear arches and pitch everywhere
a brush can reach. There is no protection offered
from linseed oil... road debris will wear it away and
heat will just cause it to run...

For just one more DOLLAR get some henrey's....
for the underbody and SPEND THE MONEY on
penetrol which will seep into the cracks like
no-ones business where linseed oil will
never reach... Penetrol is a FLOW additive
it's made to infiltrate the nooks and crannies....

.01 FWIW

That's why I like the POR approach. No, you can't buy it from Home Depot yet, but if you go to the website, call them they may have a dealer nearby (they had one in Arlington which is close).

It can be brushed or sprayed. I have to agree I don't know if it has the flowing property, but it looks a lot better than undercoating. If undercoating gets broken, water gets in and stays. I've seen many undercoatings pulled away that had rust because the water penetrated.

POR looks good, and is tough as nails. It can't be chipped, and nothing will remove it once it's dried (even brake fluid).

I sacrficed a garden sprayer when I did the inside of the sills. Fortunately, the rear piece (looks like a triangle) was missing on both sides, so before they were installed I sprayed it all up inside.

The other option would have been to drill holes in the top of the sills. The holes will be hidden by the door threshold plates.

I also used it to paint the crossmember, and brake cover (yes, I run good ol' DOT3, also a good paint remover!).

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Steve & Marilyn Fitch

1964 MK IV Farina
1966 B
1978 B