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Quick and Easy Low Oil Pressure Light

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converse212 Avatar
converse212 Eric Morgan
Atlanta, GA, USA   USA
1958 MG MGA
1970 MG MGB "Daily Driver"
1970 MG MGB GT "Rusty"
1971 MG MGB GT    & more
Was looking for an easy project today, and had been considering a low oil pressure light for some time, so I decided to put one together. I ended up with a solution that uses all OEM parts(well, all Leyland parts), looks fairly appropriate, and took 30 minutes to install.

Parts list:

Jeweled Yellow Indicator and bulb, 1500 Midget?, not listed in Moss
TR6 Oil Pressure Switch, 760-200
TR6 Oil Pressure Gauge Line, 376-190(or 376-191 for braided)
Wire, a couple bullets/connectors, spade terminal, grommet.

Fun tidbit to impress your friends at parties: The TR6 oil line listed above will go straight from the MGB block fitting to the mechanical gauge of your choice, and is much easier to fit than the proper copper line when converting from an electric to a mechanical gauge.

So when I started this endeavour, I had the TR6 line running straight to my mechanical gauge(where the fuel gauge should be, second and third photos). To start with, I found a late model MGB oil pressure junction block(first photo, Moss #180-245), which normally has the anti runon valve switch in it. Fortuitously, my TR6 line went right on the block where the copper pipe normally goes, so I installed it with a stock MGB oil pressure line(Moss # 376-180). Unfortunately, however, the anti runon valve switch completes the circuit when it sense pressure, which would have given me a nice light that came on as long as I had oil pressure, which wasn't really what I was looking for. I could've used a relay, but that seemed like it would unnecessarily complicate things. Then I remembered TR6's have oil pressure lights in their speedometers. dug around, found a bunch of pressure switches, and I tested them with compressed air until i found one that did what i wanted(closed with no pressure, open with pressure).

From there the installation was easy. Mark and drill a hole in the dash(Mine isn't exactly where I wanted it...drilling into vinyl covered foam isn't an exact science. Also did mine in the car), then put your bulb holder and lens through. If you're lucky you have a bulb holder with pigtails about six inches long, and you put bullets on the ends before you dropped them through the dash.

One bullet is plugged in to the five way white connection behind the dash(it's a six connector with five wires. Super convenient). The other goes on to a wire you make, one end with a female spade that runs to the switch, the other with a bullet to connect to the bulb holder wire.

The light glows brightly prior to startup with the ignition on, and goes out promptly when oil pressure comes up.

The only real issue I have with the setup is that it's more of a zero oil pressure light than a true low oil pressure light. It comes on around 1-2 psi as best I can tell, while I'd much prefer a 10-15 psi light. Anyone have a lead on a sender like that that fit's that junction block?

I hope this helps someone...with a late model b on which the anti runon valve has been disconnected, this install would be an absolute breeze!



Daily driving a '71 MGB

Resurrecting a '58 MGA

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balloonfoot Avatar
balloonfoot Gold Member Lloyd Faust
Southlake, TX, USA   USA
go to the auto parts store and buy a 20 or 25psi switch



Law of Logical Argument - Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about.

"Anyone with an intense emotional interest in a subject loses the ability to observe it objectively: You selectively perceive events. You ignore data and facts that disagree with your main philosophy. Even your memory works to fool you, as you selectively retain what you believe in, and subtly mask any memories that might conflict."

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dipstick Avatar
dipstick Kenny Snyder
La Center, WA, USA   USA
1941 Ford N-Series
1958 MG MGA 1500 Coupe "Rosie"
1970 MG MGB GT "Pat's GT"
1971 MG MGB "Gifted To Me"    & more
"It comes on around 1-2 psi as best I can tell, while I'd much prefer a 10-15 psi light."

Cute, but if the engine is producing 1-2 psi hot running the oil system has comprehensively failed, big problems have all ready occurred. Try Summit Racing for higher oil pressure warning senders.



Be safe out there.
Kenny

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converse212 Avatar
converse212 Eric Morgan
Atlanta, GA, USA   USA
1958 MG MGA
1970 MG MGB "Daily Driver"
1970 MG MGB GT "Rusty"
1971 MG MGB GT    & more
In reply to # 3369001 by dipstick "It comes on around 1-2 psi as best I can tell, while I'd much prefer a 10-15 psi light."

Cute, but if the engine is producing 1-2 psi hot running the oil system has comprehensively failed, big problems have all ready occurred. Try Summit Racing for higher oil pressure warning senders.
I did it with stuff I found lying around, so I haven't really refined it at all yet.
Yes, that's what I'm saying. 1/8 NPT? Or is it British?



Daily driving a '71 MGB

Resurrecting a '58 MGA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2016-10-06 06:49 PM by converse212.

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floridaguy Avatar
floridaguy Mike Wheeler
Fort Myers, FL, USA   USA
1976 MG MGB
Just got one from Summit. 20 PSI and $25. Part number ATM-3241

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
FWIW here's how I did it after Lloyd walked me through. Now I need to find another kind MGEster with a spare 180-245 so I can put an idiot light in the GT.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!

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jseabolt Avatar
jseabolt James Seabolt
Mount Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
Once again, hate to dig up old threads but before I asked and sounded like a typical newbie , I was curious what appears to be a low oil pressure switch at the junction tee but no low oil pressure light (that I can find) on my 77 model.

It's not one of the four lights between the speedometer and tach. I don't think it's built into the gauge.

So this switch is an anti-run on switch?



http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/?sort=2&page=0

1977 MGB
1980 Fiat 124 Spider (turbo)
1987 Yugo (1500 turbo)
1981 Trabant 601
1987 Citroen 2CV
1968 Ford Fairlane 500

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oleanderjoe Avatar
oleanderjoe Gold Member Joseph Baba
Fresno, CA, USA   USA
YES.

In reply to # 3908896 by jseabolt Once again, hate to dig up old threads but before I asked and sounded like a typical newbie , I was curious what appears to be a low oil pressure switch at the junction tee but no low oil pressure light (that I can find) on my 77 model.

It's not one of the four lights between the speedometer and tach. I don't think it's built into the gauge.

So this switch is an anti-run on switch?



IN ALL SUBJECTS.: For those who believe, no proof is needed. For those who don’t believe, no proof is possible.

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
"So this switch is an anti-run on switch?"

Nope - well not on mine which I detailed in my link. I think i also mentioned that I fitted the idiot light where my dimmer used to be but that was on a Mk1. There's no low oil pressure idiot light ex Factory as there was an oil pressure gauge fitted.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-14 09:56 PM by MGB567.

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jseabolt Avatar
jseabolt James Seabolt
Mount Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
I read your write up. Sounds like a good idea. A light works better at getting your attention than a guage. Or connect it to that door buzzer!

I'll look this up on the wiring diagram and take a second look at the switch but my guess is when no oil pressure is detected it grounds the coil and kills the ignition

or:

Power to the coil goes through the switch and when oil pressure is detected completes the circuit and powers the coil.



http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/?sort=2&page=0

1977 MGB
1980 Fiat 124 Spider (turbo)
1987 Yugo (1500 turbo)
1981 Trabant 601
1987 Citroen 2CV
1968 Ford Fairlane 500

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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
No mine's just an idiot light in case I'm not paying attention on start up or to the gauge when thrashing. My kill switch kills everything.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!

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little G Avatar
little G Charlie T
queensland, QLD, Australia   AUS
1964 MG MGB "Little G"
If you have an oil gauge then why not just put the idiot light in the gauge..then it attracts your attention to where the pressure is at....Personally , i dont have time for warning lights as opposed to gauges..then again i look at gauges all day long everyday so am used to monitoring...some people just dont !...a warning light to me means the job is done to a certain extent or you never know whether it is a furphy and with warning lights , people tend to just try and make it to the next stop or home because it doesnt indicate just how critical it is like a gauge..

I am an advocate of each to there own...and i understand the doo dad bling factor for Barrie and anyone else of that irk....but it touches me up when here we have 50 to 60 year old classic cars obviously to replicate the past and the fun and thrill of driving them which included having to monitor gauges , tachos in the twisties , speedo in conjunction with the tacho..where is my temp at while i am doing this..yep oil pressure is still fine ..hook in...its the stuff that talks to you....shit you dont do or have to do in modern cars...thats why it is a thrill..back to basics...an idiot light will be telling you nothing other than ...how much trouble is it..?...i suppose everyone has and drives these for different reasons so it doesnt mean my needs are THE needs to have...i just believe that if you need a light to tell you that you have dropped from around 50 to 60 or more , down to 20 then there will be more happening than just put more oil in or fix a major leak ...


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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
Aah that ball's gone straight through to the keeper.

But thanks for the prompt; need to program my shift light indicator. grinning smiley



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-15 02:50 AM by MGB567.

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jseabolt Avatar
jseabolt James Seabolt
Mount Carmel, TN, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
I like the idea of having both a gauge and a light.

I know this was another US government mandate that automakers still have to put some sort of light to remind people to fasten their seat belts despite the fact it's been a law in all 50 states for 25+ years. This would be a good light to turn into a low oil pressure warning light. Right between the tachometer and speedometer (on my 77 model anyway).

BTW, I studied the the anti-run circuit on wiring diagram. I still can't figure out how this system works! It appears the system get's power form the ignition switch then power through two more switches then grounds. I say two more switches based on the diagram but there should just be one.

How is that supposed to prevent the car from dieseling? I haven't seen a car run-on since the 1980s.

Is this one of those simple things that could leave you stranded if it failed? How can it be bypassed? Jumper wire, ground the wire that plugs into the switch?

Some guy told me this, I don't know if it's true but back in the 70s some GM cars that had electric fuel pumps connected to a relay that was triggered by the low oil pressure switch. So in the event of an accident if the engine died and lost oil pressure, the fuel pump would kick off.



http://s222.photobucket.com/user/turbofiat/library/?sort=2&page=0

1977 MGB
1980 Fiat 124 Spider (turbo)
1987 Yugo (1500 turbo)
1981 Trabant 601
1987 Citroen 2CV
1968 Ford Fairlane 500



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-15 04:44 AM by jseabolt.

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tvrgeek Avatar
tvrgeek Scott S
Hillsborough, North Carolinia, USA   USA
1965 MG MGB
I plan on a single idiot light that says " look at the gauges." With a micro-controller, it can be made to be smart to give different warnings at different times. Think, if you leave your choke on for more than 1 minute, op low but RPM based, temp not coming up, gas below some level. Then use just one original style light right in your field of view. If you wanted it to look modern, you could drive a little 1 line LCD display but I want my 65 to look like a 65.



Cogito ergo sum periculoso

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