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ohlord Avatar
ohlord Gold Member Rob C
North of Seattle, N.W., USA   USA
1957 Land Rover Series I "EYEYIYI"
1971 MG MGB
1971 MG MGB "Bedouin 2"
If you question that :
Blow by
Carburetors
Looser tolerances
Non optimized efficiency
materials
Engine that pollutes 90-95% more than modern engines
Dont effect oil conditions and you disregard the synthetic oil manufactures recommendations that using in an old car (MGB) needs to be changed at the factory interval
Those are real world facts.... but so is your money to waste as you choose pissing it down the recycle tank at whatever interval YOU determine is real in your corner of the universe smileys with beer



"I'm a long way gone down this wild road I'm on
It's gonna take me where I'm bound
It's a long way around"



"These are the days that must happen to you"

RD2 Radar/ Electronic Warfare Technician
Vietnam 1969-1972

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stuntflyr Avatar
stuntflyr Chris McMillin
Catalina, Foothills, USA   USA
Love it.
I change mine every year and do it because of all of that stuff. @ 500 miles per year. Same as old airplane engines. They are some pukey, dirty engines.
Chris...

In reply to # 3889525 by ohlord If you question that :
Blow by
Carburetors
Looser tolerances
Non optimized efficiency
materials
Engine that pollutes 90-95% more than modern engines
Dont effect oil conditions and you disregard the synthetic oil manufactures recommendations that using in an old car (MGB) needs to be changed at the factory interval
Those are real world facts.... but so is your money to waste as you choose pissing it down the recycle tank at whatever interval YOU determine is real in your corner of the universe smileys with beer

Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
Over a very long period of my MGB ownership its use was only sporadic due to family matters (taking babies and/or small children along requires another car) . In those sub 300km/year periods the car was laid up in winter too. Still my MG mech at the time advised just letting the oil kept in for many years and only fill up as needed. According to him high oil usage meant part renewal in a different way...

Once kids were no longer part of summer vacations, the longer stretches across Europe returned*) and annual mileage went back to more acceptable levels of say 2000+miles/3300+kms/year. In this usage pattern renewing the oil is back at the 6000miles/10.000kms interval or every two years. But I do renew the oil filter on an annual basis, combined with the minor maintenance/greasing interval
BTW once the engine is run in I add a TSL additive for better protection on a regular basis, i.c. on the minor/greasing interval of 3000miles/5000kms or annually; annual in most cases comes first

I am hardly ever tempted in "snake oil debates", with one recent thread on Castrol alternatives as an exception to the rule......

*) PS Just reserved again 2 houses in the French Provence in the coming summer for a new MG drive to sunny regions; in one house my sons and partners will join us by driving to us in another car
Such a distance will again get me an annual distance in the 3300+ kms range and will complete my running in of my exchange engine, having passed 1600kms last year with afterwards an oil change.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-11 09:58 AM by Donthuis.

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mgcyclo Avatar
mgcyclo Tim Rich
Township of Washinghton, NJ, USA   USA
@Don

“*) PS Just reserved again 2 houses in the French Provence in the coming summer for a new MG drive to sunny regions ”

#Jealous.

MG Logic Phil Pierce
Newtown, CT, USA   USA

tampaguy Avatar
tampaguy Jack Shea
Elgin, OR, USA   USA
Rob you are wasting your time ! You either get it or you don’t. Condensation forming inside while sitting is justification alone for changing it every spring.

tahoe36c Avatar
tahoe36c Paul Hruza
Panama City, FL, USA   USA
1969 MG MGC GT "Little Red Rocket..."
1972 MG MGB GT "Tiny Dancer"
2002 Harley-Davidson Dyna
Jack,

I hope you do realize that the condensation you speak of will be completely dissipated with a good solid run of the engine; say a minimum of 20 minutes beyond the point when normal operating temperature has been reached.

Think about it... What is the normal hot oil temp? Around 190 to 220 right? And when will water become vapor... Yep, right at normal engine operating temps! It will travel right out of the crankcase breather/vent system. Not all of it, of course, there is no perfection, but enough to "sterilize" the system of H2O.

My Harley maintenance manual even warns against "short runs" which do NOT allow the engine to rid itself of the condensation...

"Short runs" are not good for ANY engine!!! They are much worse than long periods of non-operation.

Just sayin'

Donthuis Avatar
Donthuis Don van Riet
Rijswijk, ZH, Netherlands   NLD
In the 7 years my B was still in the possession of my parther at the time, it was used by her on very short duration urban drives to her work during most of the days which led to a lot of problems. In the middle of the week, on wednesday I took the car myself on a 10km drive to my own work location and on the return trip the engine already partially recovered. After driving in the weekend for longer stretches another issue became apparent: starting such trips with the oil on the max indication on the stick saw it dropping way down after such a longer drive, by expelling a lot of water out of the oil.

The cast iron block of the B engine takes a long time to heat up, but once it does gets rid of assembled water quite well. On summer holidays across Europe, now and in the past, with their longer stretches the oil level stays at roughly the same level and even the color of the oil keeps its lighter shade for a much longer period. It is the main reason for me, now that urban usage of my B is now minimal, to extend the oil renewal interval to 10k kms or 2 years max and only keep the 5k kms or 1 year max interval for greasing, minor checks on plugs, wires etc... and a new oil filter thumbs up cool smiley

The additive TSL I mentioned in my earlier post and which is also replenished by me every year in ALL my cars in possession is especially aimed at reducing cold start wear. Those very first minutes are the ones that potentially are the most damaging to engine life. Choke on full means dilution of the oil film on cylinder walls and on the very first crank revolutions the main bearings aree not yet under oil pressure. Here this TSL solution assures at least the crank bearings keep their protective layer. The presence of TSL can even be detected indirectly: after adding it to the oil for the very first time, idle rpm on any non-rpm-regulated engine will rise as a consequence of lowered friction. BTW I have no financial interest in the (American) company manufacturing this additive. grinning smiley

In reply to # 3890001 by tahoe36c Jack,

I hope you do realize that the condensation you speak of will be completely dissipated with a good solid run of the engine; say a minimum of 20 minutes beyond the point when normal operating temperature has been reached.

Think about it... What is the normal hot oil temp? Around 190 to 220 right? And when will water become vapor... Yep, right at normal engine operating temps! It will travel right out of the crankcase breather/vent system. Not all of it, of course, there is no perfection, but enough to "sterilize" the system of H2O.

My Harley maintenance manual even warns against "short runs" which do NOT allow the engine to rid itself of the condensation...

"Short runs" are not good for ANY engine!!! They are much worse than long periods of non-operation.

Just sayin'

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