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My engine rebuild adventure

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BH Davis Avatar
Grosvenordale, CT, USA   USA
1973 MG MGB
In reply to # 3902703 by binky I seen people try to epoxy core plugs in place before. Won't work. You are to smack them flat to achieve a tight fit.



I agree completely...........you have to smack them "flat". The general instruction of dimpling them just reverses the dome shape from outside to inside. "Flattening" the center of the plug forces the edges out. Dimpling puts no more pressure on the edges then the original shape. Matter of fact it could be even less than original pressure if you dimple it too deeply, thus pulling the edges in towards the center.

BH

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ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, AB, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
That's exactly right Ray.I asked and was told they want to protect them from coming out so the epoxy to be certain.

In reply to # 3902717 by RAY 67 TOURER The sealant on the core plugs is a belt and braces approach. RAY

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Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
In reply to # 3902675 by melbaver
In reply to # 3902256 by MT-B I’m not sure if it’s just his use of language but the oil passages should be thoroughly scrubbed out with brushes not just flushed out and blown dry. Maybe he did that but if he’s looking to cut corners that’s not a great place to do it and it’s something you could fix yourself for peace of mind if you wanted to. I guess it comes down to your trust in his attention to detail. Which makes me wonder, did the core plugs come from the machine shop looking like that?

In reply to # 3901941 by ReggieB my young machinist prommised they had all been washed and blown out.

It is essential you get those galley plugs (all 13 of them) spotless. One piece of crud can ruin your day and your engine. Just ask Barrie (MGB567). This should interest you https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/tapping-the-block.2621630/#msg-2621630

Not every galley plug , look at them closer, you'll get it.

On the topic of galley plugs, neither a vat, or a spray cabinet can fully clean out the main oil galleys while you may be ok with the machine shop taking the old plugs out, you don't want them to install the new ones, you can do that yourself with a drift and hammer. I would want them to leave them out, so one can use orifice brushes and get in there good and clean them.. I always tell people the caustic block wash at the machine shop is the not only block cleaning, just the first block cleaning, the rest is on you. I use threaded 1/4" NPT pipe plugs instead of the brass galley plugs, that was something we always do on the race engine for better serviceability, but I also do on the street engines as well because it lets me be more in control, I don't worry about loose brass plugs, or too tight of brass plug and I can remove the galley plugs very easily at any time with the threaded pipe plugs.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


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Motion Avatar
Motion Gold Member Dale Spooner
Danville, VA, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
I hate to sound like an armchair quarterback, but I don't believe those 2 small plugs on the pan rail have been changed, they look original. Of all the plugs, they are probably the least critical but cleaning solution and debris can collect there during machining and cleaning and not get flushed out until you run the motor. They are easily removed, you can just drive them in until they fall into the relief valve hole and the other large hole next to it. I put regular old 5/16 and 7/16 freeze plugs back in there, but double them up because they are quite skinny. Again, it doesn't appear that they've been changed but give them a second look to be sure.


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ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, AB, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
Dale I am now solidly convinced that I want to clean the oil passages myself. When I take the brass plugs out do I drill the center and pull them out?,This seems the best to me,but I haven't done this job before so any input would be much appreciated.
By the way I has been marked solved,I have no idea how i did this but......user error

In reply to # 3903006 by Motion I hate to sound like an armchair quarterback, but I don't believe those 2 small plugs on the pan rail have been changed, they look original. Of all the plugs, they are probably the least critical but cleaning solution and debris can collect there during machining and cleaning and not get flushed out until you run the motor. They are easily removed, you can just drive them in until they fall into the relief valve hole and the other large hole next to it. I put regular old 5/16 and 7/16 freeze plugs back in there, but double them up because they are quite skinny. Again, it doesn't appear that they've been changed but give them a second look to be sure.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-06 01:49 PM by ReggieB.

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Motion Avatar
Motion Gold Member Dale Spooner
Danville, VA, USA   USA
1977 MG MGB
It's a long drawn out procedure for the first timer honestly and I know there are some very good threads on it that someone hopefully will link here. Some you can drive out like the 2 on the pan rail ( I stock 5/16 and 7/16 freeze plugs for those), the 11/16 plug can be driven out from the opposite side ( and re-used) with a long 1/2" rod, the rest you need to drill/tap/pull. I tap them to 1/4 or 5/16 and use a slide hammer. You have to pull the 3 1/2" main gallery plugs in the front and then you can drive the 2 in the rear out with a long rod. Some plugs are already 11/32 (1/8NPT tap drill size), some you have to drill to 11/32. Again, I've seen excellent pictures showing every hole and their diameters that members have done. The one you may want to leave in is the one under the distributor facing downwards. You need a long drill and then a tap extension for your 1/8 NPT tap. You can access the backside of it by removing the other plug that's in the same gallery and flush out any junk through that hole. It might save you a mistake by just leaving it in there. A hint: most 1/8npt taps seem to leave about 4 or 5 threads showing to give the proper depth for the plug. Just go slow on your first hole and you'll see how deep yout tap needs to go.


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mgm1967 Avatar
mgm1967 Silver Member Mike M.
East Arkansas, AR, USA   USA
The core plugs look like old ones, originial? Who applied the sealant? As stated above it will not stop a leak. The rear plug can not be replaced without removing the engine. Try to resolve this issue before you it ready to install. Good luck.

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ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, AB, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
New plugs used. They used epoxy when installing them. As was said by Ray. Belt and suspender installation and yes a bit messy at that. I'll clean the exess before painting the block.
In reply to # 3904155 by mgm1967 The core plugs look like old ones, originial? Who applied the sealant? As stated above it will not stop a leak. The rear plug can not be replaced without removing the engine. Try to resolve this issue before you it ready to install. Good luck.

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ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, AB, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
Have the block cleaned,you could eat off it. Installed the piston rings tonight. Put the ring end gap at .015 as per the recommended gap.
This weekend I'll install the crankshaft.


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fast-MG.com Avatar
fast-MG.com Gold Member Dave Headley
Cortez, 4 corners, Colorado, USA   USA
The last picture in post #5 suggests one or more main bearing caps have been replaced, The #2 main is an 18V cap while the #3 main is an 18G_ cap. Not a problem if line bored and the 18V bolts are not bottomed out.


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Lonwuff Gerald Beach
NAMPA, ID, USA   USA
Jealous, I always have fun doing an engine and the satisfaction you get after the job is done and looking at that shiny new motor. Sorry that's engine, motors are electric. smiling smiley

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ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, AB, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
Son- in- law the machinist came over and helped me install the camshaft this afternoon. I tried yesterday but it seemed quite tight so I chickened out.He came today armed with his measuring tools. Proved to me that there was lots of clearence. Lubed it up and used the cam timing gear to slowly roll it as we pushed in. Went in easy. There's lots to this mechanic work, so my hats off to all the proffesionals on this forum. One more piece of the puzzle done.

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rocannon Avatar
rocannon Platinum Member Frank .
Clairvius Narcisse Township, Bokor, St. Kitts and Nevis   KNA
1967 MG MGB GT "GT From Hell"
1980 MG MGB "Restored By Photoshop Inc."
Is that ring gap correct?



- .- -. ... - .- .- ..-. .-.. -.-.--

Krishnamurti: “It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.”

Sententia est fallacia; credere durum praecipitatum omnia inanis.


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ReggieB Avatar
ReggieB Gold Member Reg Beckett
Carstairs, AB, Canada   CAN
1974 MG MGB "GGB"
Set the ring gap at .015 as per spec. Or I should say within spec.Set rings into bore using inverted piston. You are seeing the ring outside the bore which is very wide lol.
In reply to # 3910559 by rocannon Is that ring gap correct?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-17 05:54 PM by ReggieB.


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fast-MG.com Avatar
fast-MG.com Gold Member Dave Headley
Cortez, 4 corners, Colorado, USA   USA
Ring gaps are set in the bore, not loose on the piston.


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Dave Headley, dba FAB-TEK offers full service race car parts and preparation for MGB & MGA race cars, SCCA and Vintage. Dave is a mechanical engineer and has raced MGBs since 1963.
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  ReggieB and rocannon thanked fast-MG.com for this post
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