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Glueing down sill cover

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Soling2003 Avatar
Soling2003 Silver Member Gary M
Pahoa, HI, USA   USA
Good morning. Has anyone used 3m Super 77 spray glue for the rubber sill covers on a roadster? I washed and roughed up both sides to glue down. I used weldwood contact cement for one side, but then ran out. I have a can of the super 77 spray on the shelf so was wondering if that is strong enough.

Thanks

Gary

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Cornfgl Avatar
Cornfgl Graham Cornford
Bellville, TX, USA   USA
1974 MG MGB GT V8 "Goose Poop"
Gary,

AFAIK, any of the 3M contact adhesives will be suitable, as long as the one you use does not say not suitable for rubber.

Just go by the instructions, and be careful of overspray.

I used their products when glueing an insulation material, and very pleased with the way it went.

Cmpozr Avatar
Cmpozr Ray Weidner
Forest, VA, USA   USA
I'm not a fan of Weldwood contact cement. I used it on covering a hardtop with vinyl, but the heat from the sun softens it, causing bubbles. I've got to find a heat-resistant, brushable product.



74 Chrome Bumper MGB
71 Triumph TR-6 (original owner)

"Every LBC is a rolling restoration."
"These are the cars that try men's souls."
"The past is a nice place to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there."

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Soling2003 Avatar
Soling2003 Silver Member Gary M
Pahoa, HI, USA   USA
Thanks Graham. I think I will try it.
Ray, I’ve used Weldwood contact cement for lots of stuff and never had a problem. But not sure I ever used it on something that sat in the sun heating up, especially black. It stuck great in 80 deg. Weather and in the shade. Will see what happens long term.

Gary

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
The 77 3M spray adhesive is not up to the task in my experience. Buy a can of real contact cement and scuff the back of the rubber cause the mold release used is adhesive resistant.

Pete

Soling2003 Avatar
Soling2003 Silver Member Gary M
Pahoa, HI, USA   USA
Pete. I did clean and scuff both the back of the sill cover to get rid of mold release and any contaminates and the sill on the car to make sure that there is good contact.

The only thing I was wondering was if the 77 spray adhesive was up to the task. I have my doubts, but have never tried it on anything heavy like this before.

I tried glueing down some really good and expensive engine compartment sound deadening stuff I had left over from a boat job I did years ago, I am a bit Leary trying something I’m not sure about. The sound deadening stuff was heavy vinyl on one side, high density foam almost like lead in the middle, then a low density foam on the inside for dead air space. That foam looked ok, but after it was glued down and I checked to see how well it stuck, it was a hell of a mess! The foam was too old and fell apart. When removing it it left a bunch of the old foam on the trans. Tunnel and I had to take a wire wheel on the drill to get it smooth enough go over it. I had kept this stuff around for years just for this purpose. The 3/4” similar stuff for the firewall I didn’t even try.

Gary

NOHOME P P
O, ON, Canada   CAN
1967 MG MGB GT "Maggie (GT From Hell)"
3M makes a "90" version of the spray adhesive. order of magnitude better than the 77. I still think the good old Gorilla Snot in a can is the best. Weatherstrip adhesive is also very good, but I only see it sold in squeeze tubes and you would need about 3 per side.



Pete

Fairfield, CA, USA   USA
I've not had much success with 3M spray adhesive. But brush on contact cement has worked for me.

If you've got the spray, try it. It it works, it was the right stuff. If not, it wasn't<G>



1973 Pale Primrose Roadster. A nice 10-footer!
SUs, Datsun 5-speed

Soling2003 Avatar
Soling2003 Silver Member Gary M
Pahoa, HI, USA   USA
So broke down and bought some more contact
Cement in a can since I was out. Just to make sure it holds well

DrewM Avatar
DrewM Drew Maddock
74 MGB roadster, Southern California, USA   USA
You know this, but be sure you don't apply the glue and then slap things together right away. The glue needs to "set up" which means leaving it alone for at least a minute or two before you put the sill cover on. And you need glue on both surfaces since apparently it's the glue sticking to the other glue that holds things together. I guess. Also things need to be warmish so I suppose gluing on a cold day may be less effective.

You might experiment a little by gluing just a section of the sill cover, then leaving it for a day or two. If you can't pull it off easily, the glue works and you can go ahead and do the rest. If it peels off, go to Plan B without creating a huge mess to clean up. I wonder what the factory used? I bet it was brush on glue of some sort instead of spray glue which would have been pretty toxic to be using all the time. But that's only a guess. Speaking of toxic, avoid inhaling the fumes if you possibly can.

I've had good luck with 3M spray glues, but the spray gets everywhere and makes a mess unless you thoroughly mask everything nearby, including the floor. I'd much rather use a brush-on glue, myself.



Drew Maddock, So. Calif. USofA

Soling2003 Avatar
Soling2003 Silver Member Gary M
Pahoa, HI, USA   USA
Thanks Drew. I got the second one done today. Picked up a small can of contact cement and put it on. Yes, it has to wait 15 minutes. I did let it sit in the sun for a few minutes to warm up, (it is 80 here) both when I cut to trim and put the hole in for the seatbelt, and again after the glue was on before fitting. It actually goes on fairly easily all at once.

Next is the rear cockpit surround and the new speaker box for the back. Finally things are starting to come together for the interior.

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