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1977 GT Restoration project

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Mark Burton Avatar
Nottingham, Midlands, UK   GBR
I just picked up this rubber bumper 1977 GT for a restoration project over the next couple of years. I finished work on my old Norton last summer and am itching for something to fill that void and this is just the thing.

I owned a modern accident repair centre for almost 20 years and started on the tools, so mechanical and panel work isn't too much of an issue. Got plenty of space in my workshop at home and retained a load of gear, so I'm looking forward to this.

The car itself looks to have been waxoyled from new and there is almost no corrosion on the body at all - even on the inner wings. Saying that, the drivers front wing which looks to have been replaced at some point in its life and didn't enjoy the same treatment as its previous panel, so is pretty rusty. The seller included an almost new, but used replacement again that doesn't have anything on the underside other than that black holding or cathodic primer it was supplied in. Why you would not do anything on a relatively expensive panel like this is beyond me, but it happens.

Both doorskins have the slight split just forward if the mirrors, so I'll re-skin these.

So, the car runs great, 4 owners from new and no rust. Removed front and rear bumper to reveal no horrors and just liberally sprayed WD40 over all the underside fixings as I'll start stripping it this weekend.

Looking to use the site as a technical resource if that's ok. I have a few manuals, but like to hear opinions if there's a better way of doing things.

Plan is to bare shell, re-apply underbody coatings, re-finish the body (will be in white) , renovate / replace parts where necessary, but retain existing fittings where good enough and then enjoy it when it's finished.

Mark



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2017-05-17 03:59 PM by Mark Burton.

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late 64 Terry O
Milton, Ont, Canada   CAN
looks like a good start......hope you have fun doing this and get to the end of the tunnel........ this group likes lots of pics so update when you can..... ask all the questions you like....... lots of info here as well.......smileys with beer

Gerry Avatar
Gerry Gold Member Gerry Masterman
Prairieville, LA, USA   USA
Boy, a RB BGT sure looks better than a RB B! Looks like you have a nice start! And welcome to the MGBE family!

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Mark Burton Avatar
Nottingham, Midlands, UK   GBR
Thanks for the welcome and I'll be sure to post plenty of pictures, asking questions along the way. I spent 3 years on my bike, which in fairness needed a lot of parts making, but Im sure I can do the BGT in 2 years. Maybe wishful thinking, but I'll have some help from my son who is 15 and handy in the workshop, so we will see how it progresses.


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MGB567 Avatar
MGB567 Gold Member Barrie Braxton
Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia   AUS
1966 MG MGB MkI "Money Guzzler"
1979 MG MGB GT V8 Conversion "Darkside"
Welcome

"The car itself looks to have been waxoyled from new and there is almost no corrosion on the body at all "

Yeah so is mine and it's been sprayed liberally everywhere which is a real PITA as I have to scrape and clean it off by hand to get a spanner on. And it didn't stop the castle rails or front of the outer sill behind the wing rusting but a bit of metalwork and welding has fixed that.



Convertible: CKD 11/66 first registered 8/5/67. Owned since 3/77. 90% original sheet metal. 18GB +40 balanced with almost all new internals. Peter Burgess big valve fast road head. Piper 285. Fidanza FW. Basil's followers and pushrods. TR7clutch. TT exhaust. ARP everywhere. 123 ign. Needham 4synchro c/r box.. Stock rebuilt/replaced suspension. Superpro bushes. New brakes all round including all pipes in SS flex. Interior redone. CAMS approved roll bar and side bars. Lots more. Hybrid of o/e and show/fast road car. Not for sale - it's my toy!

GT: UK car built/sold December '78. Stripped back to bare shell with VW Golf flared guards, flush fit front and rear valances with front guards immovable. Front and rear seams removed,Torana XU1 vents, frenched indicators front & Mk1 rear lights. Powered by 'worked' Rover 5 litre V8 (ex TVR Chimaera) with efi. T5 box. FC IFS. CCE rear attached to Salisbury axle with Quaife. All new interior with MrMikes covers on MX5 seats. Retro4 7x15 rims (zero offset) and 205/55 rubber. Colour: Jaguar Storm. Not for sale - it's my sanity!

Mark Burton Avatar
Nottingham, Midlands, UK   GBR
does anyone know what this bracket is intended for on the front suspension ?


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Rick Fawthrop Avatar
Rick Fawthrop Richard Fawthrop
Langley, WA, USA   USA
Aftermarket conversion to tube shock.
The original shock gets its valve removed and the shock is used for the upper link.

MGUK Paul Wiley
Watton, Norfolk, UK   GBR
Your car is the same age and very much like mine. I was given it as a 70th birthday present by my family last November. So I spent the Winter and early Spring tinkering. It drives nicely and recently passed its MOT after a little bit of tweaking on the engine (timing, tappets and carbs). It is not particularly economical for a small car but as I plan to drive a few hundred miles a year this really doesn't matter.

As you are also in the UK I will mention the car likes 98 octane petrol from Tesco or the Shell V power which also has a higher octane rating than the 95 standard stuff. This allows you to advance the timing slightly and not have to make the mixture rich to stop the engine from pinking.

I am a member of the MG Owners Club and have found them very helpful - both sales staff and the technical support team. The club is based a few mile west of Cambridge near the A14 so is quite accessible. For parts the MGB Hive is very good value and also helpful. The shop is located near Wisbech but a couple of miles of small roads off the A47. It is not too hard to find but the shop is happy to courier partspaid for with a debit card or similar.


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BumbleB74 Avatar
BumbleB74 William Milholen
Tidewater, Tidewater VA, USA   USA
What is going on with the brake line routing around that bracket......haven't seen it like that before....unless the home market cars swapped to that type of set up vs what we see over here in NA?

A proper set of rebuild lever shocks will serve you VERY well.

In reply to # 3516777 by Mark Burton does anyone know what this bracket is intended for on the front suspension ?



1974-1/2 Roadster, "Bumble Bee", Corvette Yellow - in shambles, wire wheels
1976 Roadster, "Virus", Sandglow - "driver" condition (stock + 32/36 Weber DGEV, cast iron header, 25D distributor), bolt on wheels, ON the road!

tahoe36c Avatar
tahoe36c Paul Hruza
Panama City, FL, USA   USA
1969 MG MGC GT "Little Red Rocket..."
1972 MG MGB GT "Tiny Dancer"
2002 Harley-Davidson Dyna
Mark,

I understand you have the "crack of doom" on both doors. I'd like to make a suggestion if I may. Mine were also cracked so I just clamped the crack in perfect alignment with Vise Grips and welded them. Much stronger now. Door skins take much more time to replace (as you already know) and would just be prone to cracking themselves... I have also read that some folks mount the TEX style mirror in this area which is supposed to help strengthen the area but I could not confirm this actually makes a difference.

The bracket in your picture is definitely an upper tube shock mount as Rick stated. It looks like one of the original SPAX mounts (I had the same...). I do not see the lower bracket though. Seems the previous owner reverted back to lever shocks and just left it installed. You can easily remove/discard it. You will just need to correct length bolts.

Paul

Mark Burton Avatar
Nottingham, Midlands, UK   GBR
I have looked at the Owners Club and think it may be worth joining as the benefits outweigh the membership costs, so I'll get the application sent off. Nice birthday present by the way!


In reply to # 3517983 by MGUK Your car is the same age and very much like mine. I was given it as a 70th birthday present by my family last November. So I spent the Winter and early Spring tinkering. It drives nicely and recently passed its MOT after a little bit of tweaking on the engine (timing, tappets and carbs). It is not particularly economical for a small car but as I plan to drive a few hundred miles a year this really doesn't matter.

As you are also in the UK I will mention the car likes 98 octane petrol from Tesco or the Shell V power which also has a higher octane rating than the 95 standard stuff. This allows you to advance the timing slightly and not have to make the mixture rich to stop the engine from pinking.

I am a member of the MG Owners Club and have found them very helpful - both sales staff and the technical support team. The club is based a few mile west of Cambridge near the A14 so is quite accessible. For parts the MGB Hive is very good value and also helpful. The shop is located near Wisbech but a couple of miles of small roads off the A47. It is not too hard to find but the shop is happy to courier partspaid for with a debit card or similar.

Mark Burton Avatar
Nottingham, Midlands, UK   GBR
Luckily William, it had a set of exchange lever shocks fitted less than a year ago, so that's been sorted. I'll take off these brackets and just fit the standard length bolts back in.

grahamts Avatar
grahamts Graham Prosser
Chelmsford, Essex, UK   GBR
Above, Paul mentioned "The Crack of Doom" and there is an article in the technical library about repairing and reinforcing the area HERE. a lot easier than re skinning!
Graham.

Mark Burton Avatar
Nottingham, Midlands, UK   GBR
Thought I'd drop these images in my initial post, so to keep it all together. Front arches are re-worked steel Ford Escort Bubble or works arches I bought from panelcraft. Nice and straightforward to make fit, plus they're scribed and butt welded into the existing wings, so the joint is neat from the underside.


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Mark Burton Avatar
Nottingham, Midlands, UK   GBR
For the rear arches I used fibreglass Sebring arches to make a former out of concrete - it really works


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