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Paint original factory color?...or another factory color I want?

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guyramsey Guy Ramsey
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
See I like that look...I was thinking being in California, tan may be a little more "bearable" when the temp goes up...I have a 68 Shelby Convertible with black interior and you roast in that car in the summer time...this would be my number one pick...or maybe a dark green and tan interior...thanks for the input.

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guyramsey Guy Ramsey
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
I like your blue on your car too...although I have had a bunch of blue cars lately...just painted my 60 Desoto a medium blue and my 63 falcon convertible just about the same color...so last two classics I have painted blue...so I may not go down that road.

guyramsey Guy Ramsey
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
I always plan to keep all my classics., but down the road...on average., I usually keep them for about 5-10 years....or if I really like it., will keep them longer. I have a 68 Shelby Convertible which I say I will never sell., but ya never know...I can do all my own work., so I save a ton of money doing that. And since I can buy an interior kit...I can do all that too....so it's a matter of just deciding what color to paint it...I just painted a Bugeye a nice ferrari red and it looks stunning....but maybe just a bit flashy for me.

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Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum Member Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
Paint it red, or green, then you'll fit in with all the rest of them at the car show devil smiley



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-11 06:45 AM by Speedracer.


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guyramsey Guy Ramsey
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
I'm not much on car shows...been there, done that....too political in Cali. Just painting it or me., not others.

tjt77 timothy Trevithick
Grass Valley, CA, USA   USA
Its really a matter of personal choice.. for a driver quality car to use enjoy, just pick the color you prefer.. if you want to keep the car 'original' as a 'value' issue, then stick to the cars original color scheme (determined on vin plate of early cars until the introduction of the 1600..which went to different coding and eliminated identifying the cars color).
more critical is choice of 'type' of paint.. originally most MGAs were painted in what is termed 'Nitro Cellulose' in USA ..some used 'alkyd enamel' which is close in overall concept to 'acrylic enamel' such as Du Pont 'Centari' (still available form some specialized suppliers) .. some MGA's had body tub in cellulose and fenders in alkyd enamel.. some preserved 'original' cars in USA will have older paint repairs done in 'acrylic lacquer' which is nowhere near as durable as the original cellulose finish.(but is similar in application method and easy to blend in and match)
nitro cellulose is still available from certain suppliers ( is still commonly used in furniture and guitar bodies) as is acrylic enamel .. both are relatively easy to apply ..although cellulose has a LONG cure time (can be sanded and buffed or re-coated after a couple of days..or can be built up in several coats in one day.. most will apply 3-4 coats in same application.. BUT..it takes up to 6 months to fully cure to the point where all the solvent is fully eliminated) when it comes to actual colors, an easy to obtain white that is close to and often substituted for '0ld english white' is Ford 'Wimbledon white' ..most US automotive paint supplies have the mixing formula for wimbledon white..few have it for old english white..
almost all automotive paint suppliers can match any color ( for a fee) and the types of paint avail;able vary in price, quality, durability and ease of application.. almost every commercial paint shop today uses the base/clear system and many have gone over to water based paints . Most of the enamels require breathing equipement and a full body suit as they are full of isocyanates which are extremely toxic and known carcinogens.
Catylised Eurethanes are known to hold up very well and are perhaps the most durable of all choices..
My preference remains for Nitro Cellulose.. familiarity with this type of paint, ease of application and the 'end result' finish being my primary reasons.. my second choice is single stage catylised 'acrylic enamel' ..both of these finishes are similar in end result to that of the car when sold new.. both require hand sanding and buffing to match the original finish.. and cellulose needs to be waxed regularly to help seal it and hold up over the long term..(which unlike its close cousin, acrylic lacquer.. it does VERY well..if cared for properly) I have owned several 50+ yr old cars with original cellulose paint still in good condition.

wyatt Avatar
wyatt Silver Member Wyatt W
penguin point, drift ice, Antarctica   ATA
...I love iris blue I have a 60 that was originally iris blue and sometime in it life some schmuck painted it post office mud blue...yuck...

Jon62midget Avatar
Jon62midget Gold Member Jonathan Brown
Savannah, GA, USA   USA
There are a few colours that really stand out to me. First of all, Tartan red, though a Midget colour, not MGA, is such a deep rich red. Much better than the MGA orient red which is too orange for my taste. I love a red sports car, but these MGAs really stand out with a period colour like Glacier Blue. I have one in Glacier blue, and it is just stunning and gets so many compliments. It looks much better in person than in the photos.

But if I really got my choice, Dove grey is so classy. And Alamo beige would be my ultimate choice for an original (though very rare) colour. All are non mettalic and just look period correct to me.

I would lean toward original colour for your car, but at least use an original MGA colour. In my opinion!


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Redhawk1689 Avatar
Redhawk1689 Gold Member Steven Stockham
Salina, KS, USA   USA
1958 MG MGA 1500 "Belle"
Jonathan,
That gray interior of the Glacier Blue MGA just makes that combination work!!

wyatt Avatar
wyatt Silver Member Wyatt W
penguin point, drift ice, Antarctica   ATA
yup.beautiful..

Jon62midget Avatar
Jon62midget Gold Member Jonathan Brown
Savannah, GA, USA   USA
Thanks guys! I need to get a heritage certificate to find out if that is the original colour combo. I'm pretty sure the glacier blue is the original colour, at least that is what the prior owner told me.

RJBrown Avatar
RJBrown Randy Brown
Queen Creek, AZ, USA   USA
In reply to # 3890625 by Jon62midget Thanks guys! I need to get a heritage certificate to find out if that is the original colour combo. I'm pretty sure the glacier blue is the original colour, at least that is what the prior owner told me.

The ā€œLā€ in your ID # indicates glacier blue. The interior could have been gray with grey piping or black with gray piping.
That information may be available from heritage.

tjt77 timothy Trevithick
Grass Valley, CA, USA   USA
As Randy states above.. the 'L' in the vin# confirms your color.. one accurate way to tell the original color of an unrestored (to lightly restored) car is to check the paint on inner horizontal bulkhead, behind the dashboard and above the wiring and cables that run twixt dash and bulkhead..... unless the body tub has been stripped and media blasted ( or dipped in paint removing solvent) it will show the original color.. the area in the trunk ahead of lid is generally original color as well. Both these area's are out of the light and out of field of vision.. so they tend to be undisturbed in 90% of cars out there.

guyramsey Guy Ramsey
Sacramento, CA, USA   USA
Well., my car was originally white w black interior....just think the design looses a little "pizazz" being white...just my opinion. I have the Color code stamped in my VIN plate in the engine compartment still.

tjt77 timothy Trevithick
Grass Valley, CA, USA   USA
from memory, I believe old english white is coded as 'R'.. white with black interior and white piping is considered to be 'base' spec ..common on cars that were sent on spec to dealerships and keep the flow of cars moving, rather than pre -ordered. Its really down to individual taste, but old english with a red interior can really look spectacular on an MGA if the body is prepped to high standard before final paint. Ford 'wimbledon white' is very close to old english white and most paint shops have the mixing formula.. single stage catylised acrylic enamel looks almost identical to the original finish if properly applied and its very easy to work with.

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