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Rockdog Avatar
Rockdog Silver Member Jeff Jones
Woodstock, GA, USA   USA
Hello all,
I have removed all the steering components, brake and fuel lines, and suspension parts to my frame. I'm down to a bare frame and it will be going off to get it sandblasted here soon. These may be very basic questions but I'm looking for advice on how to deal with all the road grime, and surface rust from all the parts and bolts I just removed from the frame. Where do I start? Solvent? Do you recommend a parts washer? Then do I use a wire brush, sand blaster or something else? Do I need to re plate bolt heads or not bother with it and just replace them? Any advice would be appreciated.

Jeff

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3066james Avatar
3066james Gold Member Jim Cheatham
Amelia, VA, USA   USA
Jeff,
I have a friend that has a bead blast cabinet that he let me use. Clean them up as much as you can. I put mine in solvent and used a small wire brush to get all of the crud off so it didn't contaminate the blast media too much. I blasted all of my fasteners and ran them through dies to clean up the threads. Don't bother with nuts. After that, I took all of the things that needed to be zinc plated to a local replating shop. Most shops charge by the batch so whatever will fit into their batch size is a flat fee.

Jim

Spectre Avatar
Spectre John Q
Millstone, NJ, USA   USA
I have an Eastwood blast cabinet, which has proven indispensable on all the small parts. I was able to borrow a parts washer from a friend, which removed all the grease and grime before blasting. I had my frame sandblasted too and the fellow used a sand / water combination which worked great.

As to bolts etc., I bought the MGA in a Box from A Series Spares - https://shop.aseriesspares.co.uk/shop/fasteners-and-fittings/imperial-range-of-hardware/assortment-sets/classic-car-restoration-sets/mga-in-a-box-the-ultimate-bolt-fastener-set-1500-pieces/

The set is not complete (some of the specialty bolts are not in there, and no engine studs, etc.) but it has proven to be a great help. They say the bits are all plated and need no further treatment.

Clarke Spares and Restorations also has bolt sets, and Todd is great to work with. Good luck and please keep us up to date. All the best.

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bisslre Avatar
bisslre Ron Bissland
Kenosha, WI, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The Little Car"
1979 MG MGB
2014 Chevrolet Silverado
Jeff, I used a parts cleaner to clean all the junk off the parts. I do have a glass bead cabinet so everything got blasted. Then cleaned with fast etch to stop any flash rusting. Then painted with Classic Black. For the bolts I did the same except after putting in fast etch if any of the bolts turned black or had any black specks on them then they got reblasted. The Rust will turn black if you did not get it all.Then I bought a Replating system and replated all my bolts in tin/zinc. Was a lot of work but came out pretty good..


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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
Ahhh, you lucky guy - this was my favorite part of the restoration process.

I used a parts washer installed in my kitchen, though doing so didn't endear me to Management (not that she washed dishes or used that dishwasher, but she needed SOME reason to get snarky at me)…

Not kidding about the dishwasher, but it DOES deposit residue everywhere. I took care of that each Sunday with a dishwasher cleaner tablet thing.

What DIDN'T come off in the kitchen came off on my work bench with wire wheels and a drill. I also bought a bolt and nut kit from overseas, and anything needed a repaint got a good coat of ceramic chassis paint.

Time intensive, but I enjoyed the hell out of every minute of it.

59mgaguy Avatar
59mgaguy John Terschak
Wakeman, OH, USA   USA
1930 Ford Model A "Jenny"
1959 MG 14/28 "Jessie"
1974 MG MGB "Oooops"
Jeff,


I would check out the cost of having the frame powder coated. They'll need to sand blast the frame before powder coating. Compare the price of material to paint plus the cost of having someone sandblast the frame. See which way is cheapest.

Do not throw away any of your nuts, bolts and washers. Some of these you can not get. Follow Jim's advice about taking the parts to a zinc plating shop. You really don't have clean the parts. They'll clean them for you. But I would run a tap and die through the threads. The last time I had plating done it ran me $50 for a five gal. bucket full. I not only put in MG hardware I also threw in Model A Ford parts and a few rusty wrenches I found. All came out really nice. And on the bucket I just couldn't fill it up. See if anyone needs some plating done and split the cost.

Do advance search= Zinc Plating and 59MGAGUY

John


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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
I had my frame sand lasted for $500, and I painted it myself. I paid almost $100 for the chassis paint, and used about a quarter of the lot.

And DAMN, do those plated parts look freakin' beautiful !

Rockdog Avatar
Rockdog Silver Member Jeff Jones
Woodstock, GA, USA   USA
Thank you all, this was very informative. I'm considering all the ideas you gave me other than using the dishwasher. I admire your ingenuity Grube Guy but my "manager" would not go for it.

Jeff

Tbird Avatar
Tbird ET Taylor
Land O Sky, NC, USA   USA
Scraped as much of the grease etc off with a flat scrape.
Some of it we sprayed before-hand with engine degreaser and hit it with a pressure washer.
Once fairly clean - media blasted, primed and painted.

Used a local plating company for the zinc plating - very good idea.
The cleaner the parts are the better the plating comes out.
We media blasted some of our heavily rusted parts (fender washers etc) and sent them back through again with the second bucket full because they had a bad spot or two. Had some motorcycle spokes and other cycle parts done at the same time.
Think ours was about $80 for a 5 gal bucket full.

My brother-in-law bought the MG in a box bolt set. $$$$
We're still using some things out of the box.
Although it is nice - might be more economical to buy what you need at a local nut and bolt shop plus a few extra (for when they are closed and you need something).

After media blasting - POR-15 on the frame and top-coated with Rustoleum satin black.

Good luck on the resto - post some pics when you have time.

thumbs up



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-05 08:08 PM by Tbird.


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gapl1953 Avatar
gapl1953 Greg Leitza
Springbrook, WI, USA   USA
1960 MG MGA
I worked at a powersport repair shop and they had a large sonic parts washer that did a terrific job at cleaning parts. They used Simple Green as a cleaning solution and you would just place the parts in the appropriate basket, place them in the solution and turn it on. It took a few hour to clean but was very easy.



Greg

1961 MG MGA 1600 MkI Coupe
1971 MG Midget

JRSCA Avatar
JRSCA Silver Member John Smith
Woodstock, ON, Canada   CAN
Definitely use a narrow flat paint scraper to get as much of the gunk and flaky rust off before you contaminate your parts washer or the air around you. Depending how much of the surface prep you plan on doing personally I also had good luck with POR-15 as suggested by ET Taylor in an earlier post.

John

nashvillebill Gold Member Bill Murrin
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
I'm not quite to the cleaning of the frame part yet, but I was wondering what the best way to do it. I've bought a blaster, but haven't used it yet.

Thanks for your question and for all the answers.

Bill

bisslre Avatar
bisslre Ron Bissland
Kenosha, WI, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The Little Car"
1979 MG MGB
2014 Chevrolet Silverado
I sprayed mine with a degreaser and then pressure washed it about 3 times. Then sent it out to be powder coated.


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Tbird Avatar
Tbird ET Taylor
Land O Sky, NC, USA   USA
x2 with Ron - degreaser and pressure washer - repeat 2-3 times - let it dry.

Fill all the holes in the frame with either screws/bolts or wooden dowels to keep the media out.

I used glass beads - medium grit - not sand.

Buy a hood and a couple of those cheapo disposable full body coveralls and plan on having the media in every crack and crevice (yeah - all of them) - grinning smiley

You can get a hood with fresh air supplied by the compressor but the plain cheapo's from HF will work - it will just get hot and dusty. We used a respirator under the hood until my brother-in-law invested in one of the hood systems with fresh air.

Used a big tarp and recovered our media then re-used it 4-5 times.

Change the oil on your compressor (hope it's a big one) it will get a work-out.

Pick a dry sunny day outside and hope it doesn't rain half way through. If your media gets the least little bit of moisture in it then it doesn't flow as good and you spend as much time rocking the blaster to make the media flow as you do blasting.

Might check into the new "Dustless Blasting" services that come to you and see what the cost is compared to all the supplies??



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-22 12:23 PM by Tbird.


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nashvillebill Gold Member Bill Murrin
Nashville, TN, USA   USA
I just bought an AllSource VacBlast #41700 that has a built in vacuum that keeps the material and dust inside the machine. Or, at least that is the way it looked on the YouTube video I saw.

I haven't tried it yet, but I'll post to report how well it works when I use it.

RECEIVEDsleepy707sleepyCONF" target="_blank" >https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200435367_200435367?cm_mmc=HousefilesleepyRECEIVEDsleepy707sleepyCONF

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