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1958 MGA Restoration Thread

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NSFW Avatar
NSFW Rob S.
Pembroke, MA, USA   USA
I'm "gluing" my mesh into the grill shell, and eventually into the holes in my valance, with two part epoxy putty around the inside edges where it won't show.

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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
I have purchased paint. And it's freakin gorgeous. Gorgeous! There's a nice pearlescensce in it, and once sprayed on, is going to drop my jaw.

The weather is still colder than I want it to be. In an hour, it dropped something like 8 degrees, and the outside temp is about 48. Inside temp, in my garage, is about 58, which is just a tad lower than the recommended 70 it needs to be for painting.

The weekend holds promise though ...

See a short video at


NSFW Avatar
NSFW Rob S.
Pembroke, MA, USA   USA
Man, that is one THIN color coat, it's barely, BARELY covering the wooden stick ! ! ! ! ! What's the reduction ratio? Might need to re-prime the body and panels in white to keep the paint from "dying."



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-02-06 09:10 PM by NSFW.

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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
It's a 1 to 1 with a mid temp activator. It's pretty common with the other stuff I've sprayed previously...

NSFW Avatar
NSFW Rob S.
Pembroke, MA, USA   USA
Just a thought on the holes in your new valance, I picked up some VERY flexible copper fuel line a while ago and looks like it would easily bend to conform to the holes in my valance (much similar to the ones in yours) might be a neat trick to bend the tubing to conform to the holes and glass it in from the back side, with a finish filler on the front. Not as much of a "tunnel" as on your original but a SEVERELY neat finished in-set for a professional look rather than a race-ready look that the simple open holes would give. I'm doing it to mine, you may well want to on yours. Rob—

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
Rob, I'm going to have to look into this - it sounds intriguing ...

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
After two and a half years, after LONG and hard work, after redo after redo and multiple missteps, I'm about to hit my huge, BigBig milestone: a painted car. And I didn't even celebrate with brandy (I wish I knew someone named Brandy).

I painted the rear of the trunk and hood lids, and I've got to say, that paint is freakin' NICE. It went on without a hitch, it laid down flat, it didn't run or sag, and the final output was beautiful. Simply beautiful. I have one thin tack coat of paint, followed by three others, applied in a cross hatch pattern. I've also got multiple coats of clear, and once it cures, it's going to be jaw dropping. Heck, it already IS draw dropping.

Today was a perfect day to paint too - 60 degrees outside and 70 in my garage. Truly, optimum temps and very low humidity.

I'll be doing the trunk itself and the engine bay tomorrow, starting likely around noon or so, probably ending four-ish hours later. The long part isn't painting, it's the wait time in between coats, especially the clear. This is tough for me - I have zero patience...

See the video at


vdubmga Avatar
vdubmga v wasem
46N1165W, WA, USA   USA
1924 Other Not Listed "1924 Cat 2-ton"
1961 MG MGA 1600
1967 MG MGB GT
I'm not a painter, but I saw some of the work my brother once did and he called that stuff orange peel and it was caused by putting coats on too fast. Also, did the dust in the air settle to the paint and cause a roughness?

You have too much work in that thing to mess it up now. I'd slow down a bit. Actually, I'd wait until summer, so you can some fans have air going through your shop. But, I'm not a painter or body man for that matter. However, I do know a couple Brandy's in the seeder parts of DC. You want their numbers? :-)

Peterborough, CAMBS, UK   GBR
It does look as though you are getting dust/grit in your paint - I would suggest giving your workshop a good clean and tidy up before doing more painting. Sweep the floor and vacuum as many surfaces as possible. Use an air line to blow dust off the panel you are painting before using a solvent degrease wipe and tack cloth. I also dampen the floor with a a bit of water from a watering can before spraying, to keep dust levels low as you spray.

Keep up the good work.

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
The stuff in the air was aerosolized paint or clear coat. Prior to this, I did vacuum/blow down everything and I even mopped the floor.

The orange peel is actually an expected/normal part of painting. The clear coat is much thicker than the paint and doesn't flow as paint does. I'll show that better in future postings.

In the future, I'll be wet standing with a sanding sponge and fine grit sand paper (1500 and 2500), and then buffing with successive stages of compounds.

I have a hood pad that I'll be installing, thus the almost zero prep work on those rears. Those are the nibs you're seeing

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
Painting of the trunk and engine bay are done. I've got to say, that paint goes down really nicely. Clear coat is also going down well, and holding the vertical surfaces like I hoped it would. So far, no runs or sags. I'm going to let everything cure a while before I touch it again - the hood and trunk lid are inside, in my dining room, doing their thing.

Given it was 32 throughout the day, and 70 inside my garage, I can't complain one bit.

The little turkey basters I bought to move paint from the can to my mixing cups have both given up the ghost. They didn't react well to the acetone I'd used to clean them out. Ahh well, such is life. I've got about 75% of the paint left, and enough clear coat to easily pour the stuff without slopping it, thus the need for the basters is nill now.

The trunk looks freakin fabulous, as does the engine bay. The heater shelf though looks a little mottled, due to solids collecting in uneven metal. I could have avoided this by replacing the heater shelf entirely, but I didn't want to go that far with this resto. Kind of wish I had though. Given the amount of stuff that goes back, I'm hoping it doesn't distract too awfully much from the overall effect.

I took a picture of all the aerosols in suspension, in the air, with light streaming through it as the sun hit my garage just right. I think it's one of my favorite shots of the day too.

See the movie at



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69gt6stopp Avatar
69gt6stopp Paul Stopp
Richmond, BC, Canada   CAN
Hey Grube,

That trunk area does look pretty sweet, shows the contours really well, can't wait to see the outside done. How do you get to show so many pictures on a post, I thought 4 was the limit?

Regards,
Paul

vdubmga Avatar
vdubmga v wasem
46N1165W, WA, USA   USA
1924 Other Not Listed "1924 Cat 2-ton"
1961 MG MGA 1600
1967 MG MGB GT
Quote: How do you get to show so many pictures on a post, I thought 4 was the limit?

Join mgexp and pay Skye to become a premium member. It doesn't cost much, but I'm really cheap.

brucemann Avatar
brucemann Silver Member Bruce Mann
White Lake, MI, USA   USA
1952 MG TD "Little Black"
1960 MG MGA 1600 "Little Red"
1962 MG MGA MkII
Just a heads up, there is not a hood pad for an MGA on the underside, only a small pad that goes across the hood to protect from heat generated by the radiator. That is the only pad that was to be installed on the underside of the hood.



Bruce Mann

RJBrown Avatar
RJBrown Randy Brown
Queen Creek, AZ, USA   USA
There is an aftermarket hood pad that looks quite nice.


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