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1958 MGA Restoration Thread

Moss Motors
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59mgaguy Avatar
59mgaguy John Terschak
Wakeman, OH, USA   USA
1930 Ford Model A "Jenny"
1959 MG 14/28 "Jessie"
1974 MG MGB "Oooops"
In reply to # 3884296 by vdubmga
Quote: lay out fenders in approximate orientation (top part up) on sea horses
Damned spell check... Hope those sea horses don't get tired.... :-)


You forget he's retired Navy. Everything is spelled with SEA.

John

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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
Marines: My Ass Rides In Navy Equipment Sir.

I went paint shopping again today and tripped the light fantastic, meaning I've been tripped by a nice light blue from the Ford pages. I'm also still hung up on the Nissan color, but it's a tri-coat and this gives me more opportunity to screw it up. I also like the Miata color aforementioned, and a BMW red.

So I'm down to two reds and a blue... and single digit temps that I'm itching to conquer with a space heater or bullet heater. I painted a Hyundai Tiburon once when temps were below zero, but kept the garage at a little under 75 using one of those suckers. What a helluva thing smiling smiley

And tomorrow being Saturday, I might need to go shopping at other car paint places locally, to see other options.

And if I DO go with that blue, I'd then have to think about what color interior I'd go with. I'm already set if I paint in red, but with blue ... I abhor black interiors, dove grey is nice but not with a light blue, red is out (my current ride has a red interior), tan would look odd with blue ... maybe an ivory/white.

Rob Z Avatar
Rob Z Silver Member Rob Zucca
Camarillo, CA, USA   USA
1960 MG MGA
A grey interior would work well with blue.



"Time flies like an arrow......Fruit flies like a banana"

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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
I spent part of the weekend in close companionship with a leaf blower, getting rid of most of the accumulated dust, debris and cobwebs throughout my garage. I did this three times, in order to get ride of as much junk as I could. Before I paint, I'll do the floor too, and make sure it's still wet when I git 'er done.

I had every intent of heading to Car Quest today, buying a gallon of paint that the guy said he could mix up, head home and starting in on door/hood/trunk rears and trunk/engine bay. And when I got there, the manager claimed he didn't have the right formula, and couldn't replicate the color. BULLSHIT. So I called a place inside the DC beltway that sells the same paint brands, he did three minutes of mouse clicking and announced that he could replicate it in basecoat/clearcoat without any issue. Which means I have to drive inside the beltway at a time when traffic isn't murderous. And if you live in this area, you know what I mean. Ugh.

The weather was perfect too - low 60s outside, and just under 70 in my garage.

Screw you CarQuest.

So I instead spent a couple hours prepping the body (covering it) so I could shoot the trunk and engine bay without overspray or other related issues. I've also flat-black painted the <side vents?> <air intakes?> <scuppers?> innards, for a somewhat dramatic effect.

See the video at


Rick Fawthrop Avatar
Rick Fawthrop Richard Fawthrop
Langley, WA, USA   USA
1967 Marina Blue. Good choice.

mgainaussie Avatar
mgainaussie Gary Lock
Gold Coast, Australia   AUS
Dave, do you have the paint codes for Marina Blue? I'm about to paint also, and the Google pics of cars in that colour look great.

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
I finished another Sebring Valence that I bought from Moss a few weeks back. REally, comparing that one to the one I bought from Scarborough Faire, I don't see a difference. I'm guessing the source is the same.

I started off drilling 1 3/8 holes where the bumper hooks (the threaded things) would poke through. In doing so, I made the edges a little ragged, imperfections which I filled with bondo and sanded down smooth.

Using a 9cm wire spool as a template for the ends, I created a template from paper, which I traced while on the valence.

I used a dremmel to cut out the traces and 120 grit sand paper to smooth it all out. The entire valence was sanded down with 400 grit sand paper and primed with two coats. In all, about 2.75 hours worth of work, if that. I like the other valence I produced, but I think I like this one better.

See the video at



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69gt6stopp Avatar
69gt6stopp Paul Stopp
Richmond, BC, Canada   CAN
Hi Grube,
I like this valance with this shape of cutouts much better than the other one. Too bad you used a spade bit to cut those two bumper mounting holes, that wrong choice of drill cost you some extra work. A fine tooth hole saw should have been your weapon of choice. I would always tape over the gel coat prior to cutting to avoid extra splintering of the fibreglass. The two mounting holes can always have the rubber grommets slipped over them to tidy up the opening. Did you check the distance of your overrider mounting to the edge of your cutout, it looks very close? You would not want them to converge, this would spoil the look.

Regards,
Paul

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
I have (keyhole?) saws, but not to the size I would have wanted. Ahh well, it worked out in the end.

I have indeed considered grommets, but I'd fit them after painting.

Prior to cutting them, I used the old valence as a guide as to where to cut the openings. If I totally dorked it up and can't recover, I'll stuff fog lights or something into them.

Regarding overriders overlapping the new openings, yes of course I considered this (this translates to "oh fu#% me, I never considered this"winking smiley. If I DO have an issue, I guess I'll have to fabricate something. <sigh> Or buy yet another sebring style valence <double sigh>

69gt6stopp Avatar
69gt6stopp Paul Stopp
Richmond, BC, Canada   CAN
Hey Grube,

I admire the tenacity you have with your work. I also envy your budget, (I guess that's one of the benefits without a wife)????
Keep up the work, I'm sure we all enjoy reading and watching your progress.

Regards,
Paul

NSFW Avatar
NSFW Rob S.
Pembroke, MA, USA   USA
Depending on the height of those "kidney bean" openings and whether you planning on running a woven diamond stainless grill insert, grab up this to fill the holes in the valance:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CCG-UNIVERSAL-6-x-36-0-50-ALUMINUM-WOVEN-WIRE-XXL-GRILL-GRILLE-MESH-SHEET/190705260646?hash=item2c66eb5866:g:4kEAAOSwAaJaJgSk:sc:USPSPriority!02364!US!-1:rk:4:pf:0

Looks like stainless, cheap as can be, and a really nice filler for the holes ! They also sell pieces large enough to fill the grill shell/opening for MUCH less than the stainless alternative. I grabbed up enough for the grill shell opening last week, need to get more for the Sebring valance once I decide on the cooling duct opening in that.

Figure if I encounter anything on the road large enough to punch through the aluminum, I have much bigger problems ahead of me.

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
In reply to # 3887049 by 69gt6stopp I admire the tenacity you have with your work. I also envy your budget, (I guess that's one of the benefits without a wife)????
Keep up the work, I'm sure we all enjoy reading and watching your progress.

Thank you smiling smiley

When funds run low, I just sell another cat winking smiley

The BEST part of not having a wife is that I get to eat over the sink any time I want smiling smiley That, and use the dishwasher for car parts cleaning and not get beaten for it...

Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
In reply to # 3887063 by NSFW Depending on the height of those "kidney bean" openings and whether you planning on running a woven diamond stainless grill insert, grab up this to fill the holes in the valance:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CCG-UNIVERSAL-6-x-36-0-50-ALUMINUM-WOVEN-WIRE-XXL-GRILL-GRILLE-MESH-SHEET/190705260646?hash=item2c66eb5866:g:4kEAAOSwAaJaJgSk:sc:USPSPriority!02364!US!-1:rk:4:pf:0

Looks like stainless, cheap as can be, and a really nice filler for the holes ! They also sell pieces large enough to fill the grill shell/opening for MUCH less than the stainless alternative. I grabbed up enough for the grill shell opening last week, need to get more for the Sebring valance once I decide on the cooling duct opening in that.

Figure if I encounter anything on the road large enough to punch through the aluminum, I have much bigger problems ahead of me.

Funny you should mention that - I think this is one of the auctions I have a permanent watch on - it gets re-upped every 10 days or so? There's also another, similar mesh with the cross pieces closer together. They both look like nice work.

It occurs to me that I've not figured out how to fasten it to the back... I'll come up with something, I'm sure

ghnl Avatar
ghnl Silver Member Eric Russell
Mebane, NC, USA   USA
1961 MG MGA "Calvin"
I used some gutter guard.



Eric Russell ~ Mebane, NC
1961 MGA #61, 1981 Alfa Romeo GTV6, 1984 Alfa Romeo Spider, 1991 Honda ST1100


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Grubeguy Avatar
Grubeguy Gold Member Grube Guy
Washington, DC, USA   USA
That's not a bad idea actually ... and I like the look too

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