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Got my hands on the Moss stainless steel LCB header and complete exhaust system

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kirks-auto Platinum Member Robert Kirk
Davenport, IA, USA   USA
The pictures show a rather "rough" pieced together unit. Curious what buyers think. IMHO, you don't coat headers to protect them so much as helping to reduce cabin heat, so it could be a consideration for some to coat the stainless, perhaps inside only.

Got to agree, the price is certainly right. thumbs up



Regards,
Robert Kirk

kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders

Business phone 563 323 1017

http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-13 12:33 PM by kirks-auto.


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TG2 Avatar
TG2 Tom Franco
Ridgefield, CT, USA   USA
Done deal!

Just arrived yesterday, it really looks good!

The coating question is still under consideration, as pointed out, more for temperature than corrosion resistance, and maybe for looks too. SS heats up faster and much hotter than mild steel, and will retain that heat longer. You will also get that patina as the pipes discolor due to that heat, some like, some don’t like.

Now it is 201 stainless not 301. They say 201 has less nickel and is less corrosion resistant, but is a very acceptable substation to 301.

So maybe the suggestion of inside coating only is the answer? Needs to be exhaustively researched and talked to death! Ha ha ha!

Anyway, it looks good; test fit was great, looking at a late spring install.

Enjoy the pictures!

Tom

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padutchmidget Richard W
Landisville, PA, USA   USA
Wow looks like a nice system. I can't wait to see it in your car. The tailpipe does come straight out like I was asking but it is definitely offset from center. I am curious how the muffler will be oriented under the car. My Bell system has the muffler running parallel to side of fuel tank then the muffler was angled out the back for the earlier one piece bumper with large over riders. Thanks for the photos!

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kirks-auto Platinum Member Robert Kirk
Davenport, IA, USA   USA
Please comment on the the issue of flange thickness matching intake to header. Any chance for another couple of pics of the "show side", it really seems to look better than the Moss site pics. Also the purpose of those 4 "hook eyelets" front and rear.



Regards,
Robert Kirk

kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail PLEASE for quote/questions/orders

Business phone 563 323 1017

http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match most retail/delivered quote


Member Services:
Parts for your classic British and Italian car. 30 years in business.
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refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
Those hook eyelets are for the springs that hold everything together.

In reply to # 3908636 by kirks-auto Please comment on the the issue of flange thickness matching intake to header. Any chance for another couple of pics of the "show side", it really seems to look better than the Moss site pics. Also the purpose of those 4 "hook eyelets" front and rear.

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TG2 Avatar
TG2 Tom Franco
Ridgefield, CT, USA   USA
I mic'd up the flange thickness of the intake and header, here's what I got:

Intake (front to back) = 0.307, 0.307, 0.282, 0.273

Header (front to back) = 0.325, 0.312, 0.314, 0.328, 0.343, 0.351

So if you were to string them together matching them with their partners it would look like this (front to back, header # first)

0.325, (0.312, 0.307), (0.307, 0.314), (0.328, 0.282), (0.276, 0.343) 0.351

I mean it doesn't match perfectly but I'm not hanging it on a wing or rocketing it to the ISS, but it's pretty damn good.

I have no idea how the muffler will tuck away in the back or how it will sound, a bit of a leap of faith in both departments, but that's part of the fun, right? (Until nothing fits right and wrenches take flight! ha ha ha)

Here are some more pics


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Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
it is a good idea to grind down the thicker of the two flanges so that they are as close to each other in thickness as possible, so that the clamping washer can seal to the gasket without leaks


it only takes a minute to do, after measuring them and finding that the two near the rear intake are 0.040 different (a millimeter thickness difference)

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BlueMax1 Avatar
BlueMax1 A G
?, ?, USA   USA
I fab my own exhaust out of 1.9mm 305 brush stainless. I used a Maniflow LCB mild steel manifold, then had it ceramic coated after I did the modifications to the collector. I may have used the Moss kit but wasn't available at the time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-14 07:19 PM by BlueMax1.


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Richard D Avatar
Knoxville, TN, USA   USA
Looks good BlueMax1, from top to bottom! cool smiley

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Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
In reply to # 3908441 by TG2

The coating question is still under consideration, as pointed out, more for temperature than corrosion resistance, and maybe for looks too. SS heats up faster and much hotter than mild steel, and will retain that heat longer. You will also get that patina as the pipes discolor due to that heat, some like, some don’t like.


Tom, someone mentioned inside of the pipe coating. I did that recently to a race header for the race MGB. I used CeraKote piston skirt coating inside the header tube at the advice of Cerakote, and I used CeraKote exterior ceramic coating. Now spraying the CeraKote on the outside of the header tubes was quite the deal, mostly because that was the nastiest paint/coating I ever sprayed, I had a respirator on on , but even then it made my eyes water, so I am reluctant to recommend it to people. However coating the ID of the header tubes was easy-peasy. I used a the correct size of expandable rubber freeze plug for the local parts store to plug off one end , on the flange side that goes to the head I just taped it off with Gorilla tape, and put a few ounces of the header coating inside the tube, move the headers around in different directions letting the coating slosh around inside and get complete coverage, then removed the expandable plug and tape and drained the excess coating back into the jar and let air dry.

Here's what I used. https://www.cerakotehightemp.com/finishes/C-186Q/piston-coat/ a quart woud be more than enough to do the entire system inside. I don't think I would coat the outside of this system, kind of defeats the reason one would wants a SS system, but this should give you a thermal barrier for the ID and leave you with the exterior SS finish.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-15 09:29 AM by Speedracer.


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TG2 Avatar
TG2 Tom Franco
Ridgefield, CT, USA   USA
Done!

Ordered!

Thanks Hap, Norm, Robert and everyone else, great advice here.

I will match up my flanges too, why not right? It may not be going on wing but maybe that's the bar I should be working to.

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AN5L8016 Avatar
AN5L8016 Mark Haynes
Nederland, CO, USA   USA
REF: CeraKote- I had the NOS Hooker headers for my 289 Cerakoted for $110 (outside only) if you don't want to have the issues that Hap did with the VOCs, there are people who will do it for you. BTW, my Hookers look great in a Titanium coating!
Hap- Do you think that header is too large for a hot 948? (SPVP3 with 11:1CR)



'58 Bugeye
'05 Mini Cooper S

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GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
In reply to # 3909144 by AN5L8016 Hookers look great in a Titanium coating!

I prefer my hookers naked. smiling smiley

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Speedracer Avatar
Speedracer Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Hap Waldrop
Greenville, SC, USA   USA
1967 MG MGB Racecar "The Biscuit"
In reply to # 3909144 by AN5L8016 REF: CeraKote- I had the NOS Hooker headers for my 289 Cerakoted for $110 (outside only) if you don't want to have the issues that Hap did with the VOCs, there are people who will do it for you. BTW, my Hookers look great in a Titanium coating!
Hap- Do you think that header is too large for a hot 948? (SPVP3 with 11:1CR)

It would probably be just fine on a hot rod 948.



Hap Waldrop
Acme Speed Shop
864-370-3000
Website: www.acmespeedshop.com
hapwaldrop@acmespeedshop.com


Member Services:
MG/ Triumph Performance Street/Race Engines - Cylinder Head Porting - Modified SU HS Carbs - DIY Engine Rebuild Kits With Free Tech Advice - VTO alloy wheels for British Sport Cars, and others
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trowe9 Gold Member Tracy Rowe
Baxter Springs, KS, USA   USA
Not knowledgeable to reply on the technical side but from eye appeal is looks really nice!!!

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