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Front Sway Bar

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Spitz Avatar
Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
Well... a bit confused now.

What I presently have is whatever may have been stock ( or optional ) for a 73 Midget (NA Market).
I had no bar when I bought the car, got a used one and links from someone on here. Still seems to lean a bit more than I would think is normal, on a right turn especially.
The left front sags a wee bit, which is why I will be fitting new springs this spring also.

The car is not for track use at all, perhaps some spirited driving is all.
Should I just stick with fitting new springs?

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minimarc Avatar
minimarc Bob Marcum
BREVARD, NC, USA   USA
With your car sagging to one side it is pre-loading the sway bar. With the car sitting level, there should be no load on the bar. With a race car, you disconnect the bar(s). adjust the corner weights to where you want, then reconnect the bars using adjustable end links so there is no load, or twist, on the bar.

I suggest you get the springs fixed, see how it handles, then decide on the sway bar.



Bob Marcum

1959 AH Bugeye Sprite
1960 Morris Minor Tourer
Ex Mini Vintage Racer



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-09 03:41 PM by minimarc.

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halloween Gregg B
Sheridan, WY, USA   USA
325# front springs, 3/4” sway bar on my BE and Midget. Tried many combinations the last 35 years, settled on this setup.

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Spitz Avatar
Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
Is that 325 lb's you mean?
What is a BE?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-11 06:26 PM by Spitz.

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1974MGMidget Avatar
1974MGMidget Silver Member Jack Orkin
Grayson, GA, USA   USA
BE = bugeye, or frogeye, Sprite. # is a shortcut for lbs. here in the Colonies! Guess its not universal!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-11 06:30 PM by 1974MGMidget.

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halloween Gregg B
Sheridan, WY, USA   USA
Yes, 325 or 330 pound springs on the front, 3/4” sway bar on front. I’ve tried probably a dozen combos, including rear sway bars, but this is what I’m running on my Midget and Bug Eye. One caveat of a 3/4” front bar is that you might have to reinforce sway bar mounts on the frame stubs. At 80 mph, both cars are exponentially more stable than stock with a stiffer front end.
GB

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Spitz Avatar
Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
Ok... thanks for the info.
I've lived here in CA for 40 years ...bever seen # used for lbs

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halloween Gregg B
Sheridan, WY, USA   USA
I grew up in the midwest, might be a midwest thing.

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GeorgeOhr Nonya Business
Yes, confused, USA   USA
In reply to # 3907042 by Spitz Ok... thanks for the info.
I've lived here in CA for 40 years ...bever seen # used for lbs


It’s used all over the states. Makes you think twice about using it as a “hashtag” for a certain movement....

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Spitz Avatar
Spitz Matthew T
PA, SK, Canada   CAN
Ah....it's a u s thing then.

Never understood this gash rag thing either.

I tjink, for now, I'll replace the springs and see what happens. A coyple mobrhs away from driving season anyway

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Richard D Avatar
Knoxville, TN, USA   USA
In reply to # 3907144 by GeorgeOhr
In reply to # 3907042 by Spitz Ok... thanks for the info.
I've lived here in CA for 40 years ...bever seen # used for lbs


It’s used all over the states. Makes you think twice about using it as a “hashtag” for a certain movement....
puts a whole new meaning to the #metoo movement... <G>

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S1 Elan Kurt. Appley
Akron, Ia., USA   USA
BTW, I've made the mounts to the frame for a couple of bars and the Winners Circle bar already has no give at the frame. Homemade mounts look a lot like Moss'es solid aluminum mount but made of moly filled polycarbonate. I wanted to limit the slop before the bar took effect.

As Gregg B mentioned on smooth roads the 3/4" bars are fine but our roads are becoming third world as well. Worth mentioning that a stiffer bar tends to accentuate understeer which square body Spridgets are prone to.

Kurt

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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 3907016 by halloween 325# front springs, 3/4” sway bar on my BE and Midget. Tried many combinations the last 35 years, settled on this setup.

Greg,

I ended up very close to your setup; I run Moss's 340 lb. lowered front springs with a 3/4" sway bar--which is not from Moss, however. I'm running a Frontline swing arm/adjustable tubular gas shock conversion, but regardless of that difference, this combo works great on my '67.

Joel


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halloween Gregg B
Sheridan, WY, USA   USA
Joel,
Thanks for the feedback. More info on my cars; I’ve done everything I can think of to reduce unsprung weight on the Sprite,(light 14” wheels, alloy hubs and aluminum calipers) and am using Worldwide dampers. My Midget on the other hand has extremely heavy 13”X5.5” wire wheels with 205/60X13” tires, stock ww hubs and calipers. I like the look, but it’s like having lead overshoes on. I have Worldwide dampers on it, too, PLUS tube shocks to mitigate the unsprung weight. Both cars are finally the way I want them, but as you can guess, the Sprite drives better than the Midget. My Sprite also drives noticeably better than my friend’s stock BE with a 3/4” bar, I think because the rear is too stiff. Fun cars to experiment with!
Greg

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Yankeedriver Avatar
Yankeedriver Platinum AdvertiserAdvertiser Joel Young
Albuquerque, NM, USA   USA
In reply to # 3910166 by halloween Joel,
Thanks for the feedback. More info on my cars; I’ve done everything I can think of to reduce unsprung weight on the Sprite,(light 14” wheels, alloy hubs and aluminum calipers) and am using Worldwide dampers. My Midget on the other hand has extremely heavy 13”X5.5” wire wheels with 205/60X13” tires, stock ww hubs and calipers. I like the look, but it’s like having lead overshoes on. I have Worldwide dampers on it, too, PLUS tube shocks to mitigate the unsprung weight. Both cars are finally the way I want them, but as you can guess, the Sprite drives better than the Midget. My Sprite also drives noticeably better than my friend’s stock BE with a 3/4” bar, I think because the rear is too stiff. Fun cars to experiment with!
Greg

Greg,

I swapped out my '67 Midget's wire wheels partly because of the weight comprised of steel wheels, tubes, etc. in favor of a later model's stub and rear axles to mount the Minilites. I think it made a difference detectable on NM's often poorly maintained roads. Going around corners with rippled or pock-marked pavement, the tires seem to spend more time in contact with the road than when the car was stock. I stuck with stock rear springs rather than going stiffer, largely because of long experience with solid axles hung on leaf springs--though in a variety of more powerful American cars--has suggested that mild/lower spring rates with good dampening works well.

My existing rear disc brake conversion adds ~ 2 lbs. to the rear axle, but that's offset by the lighter wheels, and with the better dampeners--which also serve to help locate the axle a bit better than lever shocks--there's still a net benefit.

That said, next month I'll be reinstalling the fresh engine and hooking up the blower (pic). With ~ 100 h.p., I'll likely have a new issue to deal with--at least potentially--and that's spring wind-up over the same uneven pavement (and no, I'm not talking about 'launching,' which doesn't interest me much, but merely spirited acceleration onto a tight-radius onramp, for instance). I'm looking forward to researching anti-tramp bar design and experimenting with that and alternatives, so as to come up with an option that doesn't add significantly to the unsprung weight aft.

A bit farther down the line (though too not much, I hope) will be lighter calipers. The VW/Audi model that Frontline uses in the rear are okay, but I'd like to see whether there's an option that will work with my existing aluminum adapter brackets--which use cast iron Nissan Sentra calipers--and that will still use the OEM brake rods to actuate the emergency/parking brake, rather than having to weld on cable actuation stuff.

Yes - what fun it is experimenting with these elegantly simple cars!

Joel


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