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A Better Heater Valve for A Series Engines

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geezer Avatar
geezer Silver Member charles durning
Magee, MS, USA   USA
1958 MG Magnette ZB "Chick Magnette (sold)"
1967 Morris Minor 1000 Saloon (2-door) "Marvin"
1974 MG MGB GT "Foghorn Leghorn"
I originally posted this on the Morris Minor forum. Since the Morris has an A Series engine I thought this might be of interest to the Midget guys.

Purists may cringe at this but here goes. My twist type heater valve was leaking so I decided to conquer the leak. I purchased a push pull cable and a new cable operated valve. To my dismay the cable operated heater valve is pull to close. That would mean that the cable on the dash would have to be pulled out when heat was not needed, which is most of the time. Well I didn't care for that.

Since I have been working on an adaption of the 4Seasons 74648 heater valve for my GT I thought I would see if it could be adapted. (see my journal for the GT adaption) The 4 Seasons valve was was used in Studie/AMC cars. It is available on Amazon and other sources. The 74648 is 3./8 NPT on the inlet and 5/8 hose on the outlet. Since the Morris used 1/2" heater hoses I used a Gates 18051 heater hose which is 5/8" on one end and 1/2" on the other. That hose is used on Ford and Dodge vans. I just used a 1/2 to 1/2 hose union to join the 2 hoses.

The nest issue was getting the valve adapted to the 1098 head. As luck would have it the adapter flange on the original valve has a threaded hole that fits the 3/8" NPT on the 74648 valve, though the thread is straight. The thread pitch is the same so I just ran a NPT tap down the hole for a better fit. The flange can also be purchased from Moss under part number 360-415.

With the valve mounted directly to the flange there is a clearance issue between the valve cover and the valve. That was solved by adding a couple of short pipe fittings between the valve and the flange.

The next challenge is adapting the cable to the valve. That can be done in any number of ways. I chose to adapt the lever from an MGB heater control. I cut off the pin on the valve lever and welded the salvaged lever to the valve lever. Now I can use a thimble on the cable end and it will swivel as the arm is rotated on the valve.

It's not original but it does work well.



"Whether you think you can do something, or you think you can't, you're correct"- Henry Ford



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-11 05:37 AM by geezer.

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Richard D Avatar
Knoxville, TN, USA   USA
I like it, good job thumbs up

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oldredsel Avatar
oldredsel Silver Member Rick Crosby
South Dartmouth, MA, USA   USA
1959 Edsel Villager "OLD Red EDSEL"
1969 MG MGB GT "Emma"
1980 MG MGB "Hole-y Roller"
2003 Chevrolet S10 "The S10"    & more
Hi Charles,

I believe the number for this Four Seasons heater valve is 74648.

Cheers,

Rick



If I could get all the money back I ever spent on cars. . . I'd spend it on cars. - Nick Mason (Pink Floyd)


The journey is the destination.

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Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
A very nice job!

Also, a heater valve from a mini (Rover, not BMW) will fit without modification, and the late model ones stroke the opposite way (knob in = off).

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geezer Avatar
geezer Silver Member charles durning
Magee, MS, USA   USA
1958 MG Magnette ZB "Chick Magnette (sold)"
1967 Morris Minor 1000 Saloon (2-door) "Marvin"
1974 MG MGB GT "Foghorn Leghorn"
Norm,

I didn't find that valve in my search. Do you have the information on the valve to help others who who may be interested?

Charlie D

In reply to # 3906658 by Kerr A very nice job!

Also, a heater valve from a mini (Rover, not BMW) will fit without modification, and the late model ones stroke the opposite way (knob in = off).



"Whether you think you can do something, or you think you can't, you're correct"- Henry Ford

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Aridgerunner Avatar
Aridgerunner Silver Member Bill Bussler
Montoursville, PA, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA 1500 "The A"
1959 Triumph TR3A "The Mistress"
I'm planning on using this in the 72 we are doing now. Just need to add a place for the cable in the passenger compartment somewhere. That will be easy.

https://www.minimania.com/part/ADU9102/Classic-Austin-Mini-Heater-Control-Valve

Bill

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1974MGMidget Avatar
1974MGMidget Silver Member Jack Orkin
Grayson, GA, USA   USA
Here is another option for a remote operated heater valve. This great info from Charlie came a little late for me! And, not being as creative I just spliced a valve, that I got from NAPA, into the hose. But, since it was physically too large to fit between the outlet and inlet, I had to reconfigure the plumbing a little. Larry Ice helped me fab a simple elbow which I rotated about 180* from stock. Then I used a pre-curved hose to hook it up. The valve is plastic and it is push to close/pull to open. Not as neat of an install as Charlie's, but it works just fine.


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Kerr Avatar
Kerr Platinum Member Norm Kerr
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
here is a link to a page with a few for reference

http://www.minispares.com/search/classic/heater%20valve.aspx



N

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halloween Gregg B
Sheridan, WY, USA   USA
On all three of my cars l use a 12 volt solenoid valve to control hot water to the heater core. You can plump them in anywhere in the heater hose and wire them in parallel with the fan motor. You might give up a little bit of adjustability, but no cables to run, no modifications to dash, and complete reversibility make this easy as pie. Valve available at plumbing wholesalers. (Fan switch off, ambient air temp, fan on, coolant circulates through heater core). Cost about $100.00.
GB

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S1 Elan Kurt. Appley
Akron, Ia., USA   USA
Soooo many options and I'm still enjoying the trip under the bonnet when heat is required or the opposite. Guess I've just gotten used to closing the air shutter when it warms up and staying cold till its convenient to stop and open the bonnet.

Kurt

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