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1275 clutch advice - pinging noise

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joshuman Joshua Roberts
Sammamish, WA, USA   USA
Hi everyone, I have made a lot of progress over the last few weeks. Most of the lights work! The heater fan works! The cooling system has no leaks! The seats move and recline!

After being parked under a tarp for two years, this car is almost ready to drive again. Sure there are oil leaks and so on but nothing too dramatic. The clutch is an issue however. I replaced all the hydraulics. After removing the dust cover, the fork does not look bent. There is some lateral play of about a quarter inch. Not good but I don't think that is the immediate problem. If I push down the pedal with the engine running at idle, the engine bogs a little and I hear a pinging noise. It is possible the friction plate is stuck to the flywheel. I have tried the methods discovered by search to unstick the flywheel (heat it up, start in gear and stomp on brakes repeatedly, stick hold pedal down overnight) but no good. More history: one of the previous owners welded up an extra 3/4 inch onto the clutch slave push rod. Not sure why.

Options:

1. Yank the engine and transmission and replace the clutch -- I'd rather not do this right now but it is probably necessary at some point and I will do it if the knowledgeable forum commentariat overwhelmingly point me in that direction. I'm not ready for the full Hap treatment though. The goal with this car is to drive it around. It will not be a show queen.

2. Give the old "start in gear and drive around" trick some more effort -- I've only driven it in the driveway about a tenth of a mile after warming up the engine.

3. Spray some brake cleaner or something up in the hole onto the clutch in the hopes that it will free things up -- nothing to lose if it prevents the engine out and I need to replace the clutch anyway but will it even work or damage the transmission?

4. Profit -- yeah right.

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Don Midget 2 Avatar
Don Midget 2 Don Williams
Oakbank, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia   AUS
The start in gear thing works best if there is a good load and plenty of torque, such as going up a hill. The driveway may not be sufficient. Can you drive it somewhere harder/faster/hillier than the driveway? It is still your easiest option if you can make it work!

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Midgies Dad Avatar
Midgies Dad Ben M
York, ME, USA   USA
I bought a Midget that the PO had added length to the slave push rod. They'd done it to get more miles out of an already used up clutch. I pulled the engine and trans. When I removed the clutch, I found that the material on the flywheel side of the clutch disc was completely gone -- the metal inside the clutch disc was riding on the flywheel. I'd suggest it's time to pull the engine and trans and see how bad it is.

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Don Midget 2 Avatar
Don Midget 2 Don Williams
Oakbank, Adelaide Hills, South Australia, Australia   AUS
In reply to # 3909095 by Midgies Dad I bought a Midget that the PO had added length to the slave push rod. They'd done it to get more miles out of an already used up clutch. I pulled the engine and trans. When I removed the clutch, I found that the material on the flywheel side of the clutch disc was completely gone -- the metal inside the clutch disc was riding on the flywheel. I'd suggest it's time to pull the engine and trans and see how bad it is.

For ultimate reliability and peace of mind I'm sure you're right - it needs to come out. "Unsticking" the clutch would be a short term fix to get it going. You need to know what you are dealing with.

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refisk Avatar
refisk Rick Fisk
Frankenmuth, MI, USA   USA
I agree, the engine/trans needs to come out. The extra 3/4" on the slave rod and the pinging noise means things are worn and only going to get worse. You might also want to check the clutch pedal assembly for excessive wear at the pivot points. Wear there can make things not work as well as they should.

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joshuman Joshua Roberts
Sammamish, WA, USA   USA
All right then. Time to borrow my friend's engine hoist and read up on the engine removal procedure. The last time I pulled an engine was 20 years ago from my Mk II VW. This will be easier.

Should I wait to see what's in there before I order a clutch kit or just go for it. I mean, there is a standard list of parts. Besides the alignment tool, bolt for the clutch fork, bush for the clutch fork, pressure plate, release bearing, and disc, what else do I need? This is a mostly standard engine so no need for fancy parts. I just want it to work.

Thanks!

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1974MGMidget Silver Member Jack Orkin
Grayson, GA, USA   USA
In reply to # 3909431 by joshuman All right then. Time to borrow my friend's engine hoist and read up on the engine removal procedure. The last time I pulled an engine was 20 years ago from my Mk II VW. This will be easier.


smiling smiley Don't know about that! I've never pulled the engine from a bug, but heard it was really easy - remove 4 bolts and drop it out. (OK, probably really not that easy). Pulling the engine and tranny from a Midget is not terribly difficult but can be niggly. Check the library and archives for helpful hints in addition to your repair manual and don't be in a hurry. Have fun!

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