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Toyota 3TC into a 66 midget

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Boze Avatar
Boze Silver Member Rick Bosak
Twin Cities, MN, USA   USA
1966 Austin-Healey Sprite "Time Machine"
The Geo Metro alt is pretty small and has the 6.5 measurement you are looking for. I picked one up a while back thinking I might use it but stuck with my stock alt. Also I've been looking at this tensioner on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4age-16v-20v-Alternator-tensioner-kit-Ae86-AW11-fx16-ae92/183597149561
You could have this alt if you want to pay shipping but I don't know the condition of it other than filthy and spins easily.



66 Sprite, "though she be but little, she is fierce"

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mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
I am actually looking for an alternator that has a shorter distance than 6.5". Something maybe in the 5.5" range. That would make the alternator smaller in every other dimension.

Looked at the tensioner on Ebay. All that is is a sleeve nut with tie rod ends. You can get a turnbuckle with eye ends at any hardware/big box store for under $10. https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Hardware-3-16-x-5-1-2-Aluminum-Steel-Eye-And-Eye-Turnbuckle/50415146. I like the idea. It would give a more precise control over the tension.

Have done some more online research and found chevy cavelier alternators and a host of other gm cars in the 1990's with a V6 use a small alternator. I will have to look at one to see if it will fit.

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Mustangsix Avatar
Mustangsix Gold Member Jack Collins
Orlando, FL, USA   USA
I've used alternators from Kubota and John Deere tractors. Only 45 amps or so but very small.


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40indianss don foote
2walla wa, USA   USA
I am using the kubota also. It is compact 44 amps and only about $80

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mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
You guys wouldn't happen to have a part number.

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40indianss don foote
2walla wa, USA   USA
I forgot to look at the kubota alt today but will try tomorrow but you might try google kubota alternator

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mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
Picked up a $5 turnbuckle at Lowes. Stainless steel eyes with an Aluminum body. Looks to be a perfect fit to tension the alternator belt. I'll post some pictures when I get a chance. I am in the final stages of a complete reorganization of my garage shop.

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nonracer Gold Member Steve Codianni
AZ, USA   USA
In reply to # 3901672 by mickri I am in the final stages of a complete reorganization of my garage shop.

Ive been trying to accomplish that for years !

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mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
Major frustration a week or so ago. I thought that I had all my motor mount brackets dialed in and was getting ready to start welding the brackets in place. Did a final check on hood clearance and the hood would not close. Not good. I took a break to work on other projects. Mostly reorganizing my garage/shop. This morning was alternator fitting. I had picked up a turnbuckle from Lowes to tension the fan belt. This morning I got that worked out. Nothing is easy. The PO of my donor had cross threaded the tightening bolt threads on the alternator. Fixed that The turnbuckle fits better than the adjusting brackets that I was trying make work and gives me plenty of range to tighten the belt. Will be back at the motor mount brackets this afternoon.


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mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
If it's not one thing it's another. Cut the mounting brackets down by 3/8." The motor just barely clears the hood. However now the rear bolt on the slave cylinder is hitting the frame. Before I cut a notch in the frame I am going to try raising the transmission mount by 3/8." That should be enough for the slave cylinder bolt to clear the frame. Monday's project.

Figured out why the engine didn't clear the hood. I had the engine about a 1.5" further back. Even with the short tailshaft housing I thought the shift lever was too far back so I did a 180 on the transmission mount which moved the engine forward and into the hood. The transmission mount mounting holes are slightly offset from the holes for mounting the bracket. Thus when I rotated the bracket the engine moved forward.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 2019-03-10 10:54 AM by mickri.

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mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
Life is good in the hood today. Made different thickness spacers out of wood for test fits. Ended up with a 3/4 spacer. Everything seems to clear. Need longer bolts which I will pickup on Thursday. Hopefully I start welding on Friday.

Spent the rest of the day fiddling around with various things. Shot some rattle can primer on. I have gotten tired of looking at the body all splotched with body filler and bare metal inter spaced with different colors of paint. Did another test fit of my Miata seats, seat belts and roll bar. Seats and seat belts fit better without the roll bar. Decided not to use the roll bar. Will have to fill the roll bar mounting holes. And I started making a pattern for a dash. I am going to try to use the instrument cluster out of my donor car. The donor was an SR5 and the instrument cluster has a tack, speedo, oil pressure, water temp, amps, fuel gauge, a clock, and turn signal blinkers. Don't know how that will turn out. It will be different is all I can say.

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Boze Avatar
Boze Silver Member Rick Bosak
Twin Cities, MN, USA   USA
1966 Austin-Healey Sprite "Time Machine"
I think you made the right call on ditching the roll bar. I got a great deal on mine but it has been a real pain with trying to install the interior, the panel between the cockpit and the boot I had to do in three pieces, the cockpit surround barely cleared making install almost impossible and I haven't even started on carpet, etc. I used seats from a 64, I don't think anything else would would have cleared the bar. And then you have to pad the bar unless you are wearing a helmet, getting rear ended could cause a head injury.

I suppose it does add some stiffness to the car and I do like it for my third brake light and shoulder belt mounting point.

I like your idea to use the gauges from the donor car, it will make wiring easier and save some bucks too.



66 Sprite, "though she be but little, she is fierce"

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Mustangsix Avatar
Mustangsix Gold Member Jack Collins
Orlando, FL, USA   USA
In reply to # 3894387 by mickri You guys wouldn't happen to have a part number.

This is what I used on a kart thing. It only puts out about 15A, though. Kind of small if you have to run a big ignition, EFI, lights, etc. simultaneously, but it is tiny. https://www.amazon.com/Alternator-Regulator-BX1500D-BX1800D-Tractor-x/dp/B06XGNRMMD

The other Kubota alt is a very small Denso. I have one on the shelf; I'll dig up a p/n today.


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mickri Chuck Losness
Squaw Valley, CA, USA   USA
Another good day in the hood. Picked up the longer trans mount bolts yesterday and earlier in the week I had made some 3/4" spacers. Nice to have a lathe in the shop. Put everything back together this afternoon and all was good. Got all of the brackets welded. I know that you guys like pictures. But my welds are way beyond ugly. Calling them double ugly would be kind. I think that the strength is ok. I took my biggest ball peen hammer and wailed away on them. They didn't budge.

One interesting thing. Early on in this project I had thought about welding in a threaded tube on the driver side frame rail for the motor mount and had drilled a pilot hole for the tube. Bailed on that because as I played with motor placement I thought that my hole was way off. To far forward.
Turns out that the pilot hole was not even 1/16" off from where the motor mount brackets ended up.

Might get back at it again tomorrow afternoon. Have errands to run in the morning and don't know how long that will take. More likely on Monday. More welding. Have to work on the tunnel and on the passenger foot well.

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