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Rear main oil seal

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Noble66 Avatar
Noble66 Gold Member Noble Bradford
Orlando, Florida, USA   USA
1964 MG MGB "Black Betty"
1969 MG MGC GT
1974 MG MGB "Whitey"
Is it possible to replace the rear main seal without removing the backplate?

If not, who has a backplate gasket? I don't want the whole conversion set.

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kirks-auto Platinum Member Robert Kirk
Davenport, Iowa, USA   USA
I and others have the new and improved Rover rear seal. As with nearly all MGC parts the gasket too is available.



Regards,
Robert Kirk

kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail for quote/questions/orders

Business phone 563 323 1017
cell 563 940 1864

http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match any retail/delivered quote


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Parts for your classic British and Italian car. 30 years in business.
Noble66 Avatar
Noble66 Gold Member Noble Bradford
Orlando, Florida, USA   USA
1964 MG MGB "Black Betty"
1969 MG MGC GT
1974 MG MGB "Whitey"
Thanks Robert. I'm trying to avoid taking off the back plate. I don't see any leaks that are typical of a leaking rear main seal but I'm hoping to pull this engine once so I was considering replacing the seal and throwing in a speedi-sleeve. I already have an uprated seal and sleeve from an MGB engine build that I won't be doing for awhile. And yes I checked, the seal and sleeve are the same for B & C. That's actually why I'm considering it.

I'll get with you about ordering the flywheel after I find out how much getting the tree removed will cost me.

PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
Noble,

I have a speedy sleeve and the improved Rover seal [the Factory seal was an Orange colour the Rover seal is Black] in my GGL, fill the seal with Lithium grease on fitting this makes sure that the seal does not run dry on first start up. Doug Smith of MG Motorsport UK advised me to do this for all oil seals. Doug gives me good advice. I bought my Fast Rack and the +.020" Piston set from him.

After about 3,000 miles I have NO oil leaks from the Timing Cover or the rear seal, The split pin in the bell housing is absolutely dry no sign of oil [at last] the only oil under the GGl is 1 small drop under the Overdrive in spite of all my efforts to seal the stud threads, these Laycock OD's seem to have been designed not to hold oil, they all leak slightly over time.

Bruce.

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kirks-auto Platinum Member Robert Kirk
Davenport, Iowa, USA   USA
The lithium grease trick is well thought. Red Rubber Grease would be even better. It is one the only natural grease designed for rubber seals. A must have when doing internal hydraulic builds or anywhere you wish to preserve rubber products to prevent oxidation on metal surfaces such as hydraulic bore linings put in storage.



Regards,
Robert Kirk

kirkbrit@yahoo.com
E-mail for quote/questions/orders

Business phone 563 323 1017
cell 563 940 1864

http://kirks-auto.com/
Moss distributor/UK importer
Beat or match any retail/delivered quote


Member Services:
Parts for your classic British and Italian car. 30 years in business.

Attachments:
Red Rubber Grease.jpg    32.2 KB
Red Rubber Grease.jpg

Noble66 Avatar
Noble66 Gold Member Noble Bradford
Orlando, Florida, USA   USA
1964 MG MGB "Black Betty"
1969 MG MGC GT
1974 MG MGB "Whitey"
Ugh, I'm starting to get mission creep here. Currently I have no leaks from this engine. The automatic leaked after it sitting for a while but that is moot since I've drained it and it's coming out.

I was only adding a speedi-sleeve because I had one and the engine was going to be out. If the backplate has to come off to replace the seal then I don't think I'll do it. I'm already pulling the timing cover to replace the keys for the harmonic balancer, replacing the wiring harness and putting heat shield under the tunnel. All while swapping in a manual OD transmission.

You know if you keep doing "while I'm at it I'll just..." you'll end up with a car in boxes for the next decade.

Again, the engine isn't leaking. There is strong evidence that this engine had been worked on to some level by the PO. At the very least it was very well cared for.

Noble66 Avatar
Noble66 Gold Member Noble Bradford
Orlando, Florida, USA   USA
1964 MG MGB "Black Betty"
1969 MG MGC GT
1974 MG MGB "Whitey"
Oh and while I'm at it I'm replacing the t-stat housing and filler neck gaskets, all the coolant hoses, the none functioning heater valve, and cleaning and painting the engine while it's out....

SMH, mission creep.

PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
Noble,

I completely endorse the fitting of insulation under and on top of the tunnel, especially if you plan to Air Condition the car later on.

Heat comes through the firewall but a surprising amount of heat is transmitted from the alloy bell housing and gearbox. On the factory car in our climate you could not touch the chrome ring around the gear lever after an all day run in Summer it got that hot. When I did the AC in my car I did not know about some of the much better insulation that is available outside Australia, I used what I could find.

In my car I have insulated the firewall, both sides, the Tunnel both sides and the floor from the firewall to the rear panel under the Kiddy/Dog seat. My car is relatively cool compared with the factory GT. The AC works a treat and in Winter I often turn off the compressor and just run the fan like a modern car. My car is a retirement hobby and I have all the time I need to carry out modifications. To my great surprise every time I add a major improvement my Insurer raises the Agreed Value of my car so modifications well done increase value not reduce it as most old thinking dictates.

As you will see originality is not high on my list but making a great Road going GT car is. Here are 3 photos of the tunnel and firewall in my car.

Bruce.


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