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PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
Joel,

The MGC more so the MGC-GT is actually a great car that responds very well to modifications, the B-GT is too gutless with the heavy body and weak engine but the 'C' is in a different league all together. I expect the MGC/GT prices to eventually climb up towards the Healey 3000 prices as more & more people discover that it really is a totally different vehicle to the MGB/GT and there are so few of them left.

Bruce.

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PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
Joel,

Here are 2 photos of the cut down gear lever, one with the factory boot and the other with the vinyl cover fitted over the boot, in case you consider fitting the 72/73 MGB centre console to your car some day.

Bruce.


Attachments:
Master Copy of CD Photos JAN 2010 046.jpg    48.5 KB
Master Copy of CD Photos JAN 2010 046.jpg

Master Copy of CD Photos JAN 2010 076.jpg    59.2 KB
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Wil Avatar
Wil Wil Linders
Venray, Netherlands   NLD
1969 MG MGC "Siep's MG"
Hello,

in the housing were the gearlever fits in there should be a damper. On my car this was so dirty it did not work anymore.

A good cleanup en some lubrication (teflon spray) made it work again. No more rattling lever.

You can get to it by getting of the ring which hold the lever then you can get into the housing.

with Regards
Wil

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PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
There is (or should be) a brass cylindrical damper with a spring inside it that bears onto the lever ball, this was supposed to stop rattles and play but the lever still rattles when the engine is under power. I do not know the reason why it does this but it must be something to do with the harmonic vibration of the engine causing the lever to hit a resonant frequency.

When my car was new I never noticed it even after the Downton conversion was fitted. It may be that the rubber in the harmonic balancer has hardened with time that makes harmonic vibration affect the gear lever.
Shortening the lever raised the resonant frequency of the lever and solved my problem.

Bruce.

windjammerusn40 Avatar
windjammerusn40 Gold Member Bill McCord
East Peoria, Illinois, USA   USA
In reply to # 3531971 by J Baz 4. Is it normal for there to be a bit of torque steer with the MGC? When cruising on the highway and push the throttle down, she tends to pull right and then when I let off I need to steer a bit right to counter the tenancy to drift back to the left. It's not drastic but noticeable I've driven FWD cars that were much worse.

Since B's and C's share the same rear suspension set up I recommend you check the rear spring u-bolts and pads. I experience the same effect with a B once, it pulled to the right on hard acceleration then back to the left when I released the gas. I found that the U bolts were loose after a rebuild. Once I tightened them up the torque steer went away.

Best of luck sorting things out.

It can also be caused by loose spring shackles where they attach to the springs and the frame. I had this occur on my 74 B-GT and tightening up the shackles cured it. It could be either or both.

jsrivard Avatar
jsrivard Silver Member Joel Rivard
Ramstein, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany   DEU
1968 MG MGC GT "Maggie"
Shift Lever Rattle update:

Thanks Bruce so much for all of your help. After dismantling the lever I have found that the copper anti-rattle plunger and spring were not installed, which I'm sure aided in the rattle I've been experiencing. These pieces are very inexpensive so I've ordered them and hopefully that problem will soon be sorted. Problem is as I still have the brake issue to deal with I can't take it on a drive to test out the rattle.

Next - on to dismantling the master cylinder assembly.



Cheers,
Joel

MGC Life Blog: https://mgc.is-great.net/
MGC "how-to's" available on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDMf5tRcUOG0ueyizruhv5w/

Wil Avatar
Wil Wil Linders
Venray, Netherlands   NLD
1969 MG MGC "Siep's MG"
Hello, Joel,

is your MC US spec or european. I have had problems with mine which is a US spec.
few weeks ago i had to pump 2 times before i could brake not really the way for an emergency stop. Last week i rebuild it (honing and replace al internal rubbers) and it works now fine.
The US spec is not easy to get trapped air out. I bled mine once; used the car for a trip of 100Km and then put a broomstick between brake pedal and seat and left it there for 3 days.
After that is was 90%. Then a extra round of bleeding left me with brakes that work perfect.
The best i have had as long as we have the car en that is 12 years now.

grtz
Wil

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chormy Avatar
chormy Gold Member Shaun Holmes
Norwich, Norfolk, UK   GBR
1963 MG MGB MkI "3330 PE"
1964 MG MGB MkI
1967 MG MGB GT "BABE"
1967 MG MGC    & more
There is a nylon cup at the bottom of the gear lever they don't last long but check yours is there by removing the lever its a white plastic cup. they are pence to buy and pay to fit.


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jsrivard Avatar
jsrivard Silver Member Joel Rivard
Ramstein, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany   DEU
1968 MG MGC GT "Maggie"
Wil, I'm now in the middle of the brake job. I've taken the master cylinder out of the vehicle and the outlet brake line as well. I will be replacing both and will bleed the brakes fully using all of the tips I've learned once I have everything back in place.

Shaun, the nylon cup was installed and appeared to be in good condition but I've ordered a new one to install when I put it back together.

See the attached picture if your interested in the effects of allowing brake fluid to sit on top of paint. Nasty stuff.



Cheers,
Joel

MGC Life Blog: https://mgc.is-great.net/
MGC "how-to's" available on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDMf5tRcUOG0ueyizruhv5w/


Attachments:
DSC08454.JPG    50 KB
DSC08454.JPG

PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
Joel,

The factory installed brake & clutch lines are zinc plated steel, I notice many cars now have copper lines [copper lines are not approved for use in Australia] replacing the original lines.

I had my Master Cylinders and rear Brake Cylinders Stainless Steel lined years ago, also Stainless Steel Caliper pistons made up to replace the rusty Hard Chromed Girling ones. The Servo could not be SS lined because of the 2 different diameters, luckily I had a new spare Servo body. Stainless Steel Caliper pistons are very resonant and to prevent brake scream Pad Shims are required to isolate the Pad from the Piston.

EBC 'Green Stuff' disc pads now come with '3M' shims to stick onto the back of the pads, these pads are good for a road car, with much less filthy brake dust on the wheels.

Hydraulic fluid really makes a mess of paint, under my Master cylinders there is some damaged paint also. Girling Hydraulics are designed to leak fluid.

Bruce.

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Bryan Avatar
Bryan Silver Member bryan strahan
dublin, Ireland   IRL
1968 MG MGC "Ding Dong C"
1973 MG MGB "Ding Dong"
Joel
Sorry to hear of your difficulties but when you have sorted the brake issue you will good to go on more long trips.
I can't help you on the other issues as I have not had those problems but the good thing is that these cars come into their own on long distance runs and are super reliable once you identify the weak points with your car and resolve them. We have done trips of well over 5000km without difficulty.

bweakley Avatar
bweakley Gold Member Bill Weakley
Ann Arbor, MI, USA   USA
1956 MG MGA "Old Blue"
1965 MG Midget MkII
1969 MG MGC
Hello Joel,

I'm glad to hear you made it home safely. We chatted at the hotel and the show.

I don't think your brake master cylinder is the culprit for your air infiltration. The workings of the M/C are completely covered by brake fluid unless the fluid in the reservoir gets low, which doesn't sound like your problem. I would suspect the booster, although I don't know the exact mechanism. Any place else that could let air in should let brake fluid out. The pressures inside the piping under application are very high in comparison to ambient air pressure. It's hard to imagine a loose connection allowing air in without letting significant quantities of fluid out.

I hope you share a post on this when you do sort it out.



Safety Fast,
Bill Weakley
American MGC Register Association

jsrivard Avatar
jsrivard Silver Member Joel Rivard
Ramstein, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany   DEU
1968 MG MGC GT "Maggie"
Well, I've removed the rust from under the MC's. I've been debating on having it towed to a professional painter to have it color matched or just get it done and back together the DIY way with rattle cans and some sweat equity. My main purpose is to prevent further damage to the metal from more rust. I'm not at this point trying to make it pretty as I foresee a clutch change/engine pull in the next year or two (my clutch doesn't engage very well and likes to hiccup if not feathered perfectly).

So, I think I'm just going to sand/primer/paint myself to get the car back on the road and then when I'm back in the States next year or so I'll have the engine compartment repainted professionally when I pull the motor/trans.



Cheers,
Joel

MGC Life Blog: https://mgc.is-great.net/
MGC "how-to's" available on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDMf5tRcUOG0ueyizruhv5w/

PFT-000 Bruce Ibbotson
Brisbane, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
1968 MG MGC GT "The Truck"
Joel,

The area under the Master Cylinders is prone to having the paint damaged, when the pedal box is in position it is hard to see or clean the paint. My car is simply brushed acrylic in this area, as is the engine bay.

With a full restoration and a clean body shell then professional painting makes sense. With all the items having to be removed to do this the job is too big and long for the results obtained. In my engine bay there is hardly any visible body shell anyway.

With a completely stripped shell on a rotating stand then the complete shell can be painted to a very high standard but this is a multi year job. Just painting the external body is a bloody big deal itself, months of work.

Bruce.

Bowral, NSW, Australia   AUS
1968 MG MGC
Hey Bruce and Joel,

Gearshift "sizzle" and speedometer problems are common in British cars...the sizzle can usually be fixed with nylon bushings and tightening up the ball and seat.

Joel, your speedo problem looks like over-tightened " jewels" or someone has sprayed WD40 into the mechanism :-(

(says Mick the Instrument Tradesman)

Remove the speedo head, and dis-assemble in a clean environment (eg kitchen table!)...usually, the delicate movements are clogged with iron fillings that can be carefully/painstakingly removed under magnification. The over tightening can be adjusted by a screw found under the dial...

SO GLAD, you (EVENTUALLY) took my advice about letting the AA have a look at your brakes :-)

Cheers, Mick



Mick
Southern Highlands of NSW, Australie

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