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Need help-drive shaft removal 98 Isuzu Hombre 4wd

Posted by Matt Ruch 
Matt Ruch Avatar
Medical Lake, Washington, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB MkIII
1976 MG MGB MkIV "Donzi"

Hello all. I'm writing this from my garage near Spokane, WA. I have my truck on the hoist and all four ball joints are completely knackered. So, I'm in the process of sorting them, but have come to a sticking point that my newly purchased Chilton's manual isn't specific enough (dumb enough) for me to work through.

Let me write what I've done.

Brake caliper assembly removed. Axle nut removed. Outer track rod end removed. Three bolts that feed from the inside out thru the steering knuckle are removed.

The manual says I need to remove the inner bolts to remove the drive axle. Are these bolts hidden by the rubber gaiter?

I find myself with no batteries for my camera, so photos may be problematic.

Help is much appreciated. I would be happy to ring someone if they can sort of guide me thru this.

Many thanks,

Jim Gevay Avatar
Circle Pines, MN, USA   usa
1974 MG MGB

Ah, what, did you say something Matt.
I just checked in to look at your avatar, again.
Sorry I couldn't help you.



Early 1974 MGB with OD, SU HIF's, 72 spoke chrome WW's, Schlemmer Pertronix, DuBois fuel pump, Limey's relays, Gerry's column kit.

Matt Ruch Avatar
Medical Lake, Washington, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB MkIII
1976 MG MGB MkIV "Donzi"

Right....so how is this?

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Jim Gevay Avatar
Circle Pines, MN, USA   usa
1974 MG MGB

In reply to # 2065797 by Matt Ruch Right....so how is this?

Dang boring, I still can't help you, sorry.



Early 1974 MGB with OD, SU HIF's, 72 spoke chrome WW's, Schlemmer Pertronix, DuBois fuel pump, Limey's relays, Gerry's column kit.

melbaver Avatar
Chris Howells
Broadwater NSW, Australia   aus
1968 MG MGB "Moneypit"
1996 Jeep Cherokee "Shopping Trolley"

Matt,

Replace that avatar immediately..........hoists belong in the On Topic forum.........................chuckles.



Chris Howells

1968 MGB Purchased already dis-assembled which is why I'm often ignorant about what some parts are, and even more ignorant of where they go.


Moggy59 Avatar
Paul Eggleston
Cross Lanes, WV, USA   usa

Matt,

This is from an online procedure. Maybe it will help?




Removal & Installation
1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2.Unlock the steering column so the linkage is free to move, then raise and support the front of the vehicle safely using jack stands.

3.Remove the tire and wheel assembly.

4.Insert a drift through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes to prevent the drive axle from turning.

5.Remove the axle nut and washer from the hub end of the shaft. Hold the hub from turning and loosen the axle nut. Once the nut is loosened unthread it and remove the washer.

6.Remove the brake caliper and support it with a piece of wire to avoid damaging the brake hose. Remove the brake rotor.

7.Remove the ABS and brake line brackets from the top of the upper control arm.

Be careful when supporting the lower control arm that any components are damaged with the supporting device.

8.Place a jack stand or jack under the lower control arm.

9.Separate the axle shaft from the hub by placing a block of wood against the outer edge of the axle (to protect the threads), then strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer. Do not remove the axle at this time.

10.Remove the cotter pin and retainer, then loosen and remove the upper ball joint stud nut away from the knuckle. Tip the knuckle out and toward the rear of the vehicle. Suspend the knuckle from the upper control arm or frame in order to prevent straining and damaging the brake line.

11.Remove the lower shock absorber retainers, then compress the shock and secure it out of the way using safety wire.

Once the lower ball joint is separated from the knuckle, simultaneously push the axle shaft in towards the differential to allow room for the knuckle and assembly to be removed.

12.Remove the cotter pin and retainer, then loosen and remove the lower ball joint stud nut away from the knuckle.

13.Lower the safety stand or jack at the lower control arm to relieve pressure on the torsion bar, then separate the axle from the knuckle.

14.Remove the differential carrier shield, being very careful not to damage the axle seal.

15.To remove the shaft from the differential carrier, place a block of wood or a brass drift against the tripot housing, then strike it outwards using a hammer. You will have to hit it hard enough to overcome the snap ring pressure retaining it.

16.Support the drive axle, then pull the axle straight out from the carrier being careful not to tear the boot.

To install:

It is essential that the differential carrier and axle seals are not lubricated or damaged during installation. Prior to shaft installation, cover the shock mounting bracket, lower control arm ball stud and ALL other sharp edges with a cloth or rag to help protect the boot.

17.Install the axle into the carrier. With both hands on the tripot housing, align the splines on the shaft with the carrier. Then center the axle into the carrier seal and push the shaft straight into the carrier until the snap ring is properly seated.

Be careful when supporting the lower control arm that any components are damaged with the supporting device.

18.Raise the lower control arm using a jack stand or jack until the full weight of the arm is supported.

It is necessary to slightly start the knuckle onto the axle while at the same time guiding the lower ball joint into position on the knuckle.

19.Install the lower ball joint, the lower shock absorber and the upper ball joint.

20.Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten the nut to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).

21.Attach the ABS and brake line brackets to the top of the upper control arm.

22.Install the caliper and rotor

23.Install the tire and wheel assembly.

24.Install the differential carrier shield.

25.Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.



1972 MGB 1976 MGB ‹(•¿•)›

Matt Ruch Avatar
Medical Lake, Washington, USA   usa
1972 MG MGB MkIII
1976 MG MGB MkIV "Donzi"

Paul-

I think that might be most helpful...that is not close to what the manual says, but it kind of makes sense...

I'm copying and pasting one bit:

9.Separate the axle shaft from the hub by placing a block of wood against the outer edge of the axle (to protect the threads), then strike the block of wood sharply with a hammer. Do not remove the axle at this time.

So, does this mean, I whack the end of the splined axle whilst it's still in the hub/steering knuckle thing? And that whack is going to drive the shaft back into the front differential?

I can get the upper ball joint out with the drive axle in place, but not the lower ball joint. If what I'm interpreting means the axle will go in, then I should be able to get the lower ball joints out.

I'm done for the night, but will re-engage tomorrow. Thank you.

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